Is low milleage on ej8 normal?

Hey guys i was wondering what could be the cause of my Civic EJ8 reaching like 300km full tank? I was expecting to get at least 450+ considering my brothers dc2 can go 500km one tank.
Also I found a hole somewhere in the centre of my exhaust pipe (when i start the car and put my feet near drivers side i can feel air). Could this be the cause of it?
Here is a picture of it:

http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/2126/dscn0531cp.jpg

My Auto EJ8 is completely stock and has done 116XXXkm. Last service was at 108XXXkm by previous owner so I changed oil, fuel filter, spark plug, air filter and timing belt as soon as i got the car.
Note: i dont drive like a maniac hitting vtec. I drive like a granny :)

O2 sensor? I changed mine and got 1-2L/100km better

What engine is fitted to the car? What fuel are you using? How do you drive it? Is it auto or manual? All these things will have altering affects of your fuel consumption. I would start with a simple fuel filter change & running the car on a minimum of 95RON petrol and see how you go with that. If after doing this you are still getting poor fuel consumption, further investigation will be required

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Originally Posted by charliebrown

O2 sensor? I changed mine and got 1-2L/100km better

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yeah i was thinking it would be the O2 sensor too, but if its faulty wouldnt it show up on the cluster? (the ecu code thingy)

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Originally Posted by stndrd

What engine is fitted to the car? What fuel are you using? How do you drive it? Is it auto or manual? All these things will have altering affects of your fuel consumption. I would start with a simple fuel filter change & running the car on a minimum of 95RON petrol and see how you go with that. If after doing this you are still getting poor fuel consumption, further investigation will be required

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Oh yeah i changed the fuel filter too, forgot to add, My engines a stock D16Y8, the cars is running on shell vpower and its auto. Since its auto i drive it like a granny because i wanna see how much fuel it takes.

Nah man, o2 sensor throws up a code if it's gone or broken or some shit. If it's dirty then it just decreases fuel economy (by a lot!). Apparently auto's are only supposed to use a tiny bit more fuel than a manual but all 3 auto cars in my house drink the petrol bad. also check your temp guage is warming up correctly otherwise thermostat gone.

Try BP ult. I find shell vpower gives me less kms

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Originally Posted by charliebrown

Nah man, o2 sensor throws up a code if it's gone or broken or some shit. If it's dirty then it just decreases fuel economy (by a lot!). Apparently auto's are only supposed to use a tiny bit more fuel than a manual but all 3 auto cars in my house drink the petrol bad. also check your temp guage is warming up correctly otherwise thermostat gone.

Try BP ult. I find shell vpower gives me less kms

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Ohh right, but how do you check if your o2 sensor is dirty? Well how do you clean it?? And also how do you know if temp gauge is working correctly, i assume it is considering after like 5mins on idle it begins to rise and never goes above the half mark.
And yeah i would get a manual but stupid P1 is restricted -_-

I'll try filling up BP Ult after this tank is gone lol dont wanna mix them together.

Also as for the picture, is that hole normal? I guess not considering it blows air from that area.

nah, id get that hole fixed, itll actually fail its next rego inspection

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Originally Posted by trism

nah, id get that hole fixed, itll actually fail its next rego inspection

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Oh right, i'll see if i can take it to a mechanic this weekend to see if they can repair it. So yeah thats not normal yeah? LOL

Most people never change the o2 sensor. And by 116xxx that shit is brown as dirt. Just get a new one from the USA. Direct plug and play, mine was like $80 or something for a denso one. On a moderate day, the temp guage should rise to around 1/3 by 5 minutes and stay there. If the temperature gauge drops when driving and rises when stopped, it's ****ed. And yeah, fix the exhaust before you get done for it, but that's probably not affecting your fuel consumption.

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Originally Posted by charliebrown

Most people never change the o2 sensor. And by 116xxx that shit is brown as dirt. Just get a new one from the USA. Direct plug and play, mine was like $80 or something for a denso one. On a moderate day, the temp guage should rise to around 1/3 by 5 minutes and stay there. If the temperature gauge drops when driving and rises when stopped, it's ****ed. And yeah, fix the exhaust before you get done for it, but that's probably not affecting your fuel consumption.

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Oh my temp gauge should be okay then it doesnt do that lol. But yeah i'll see what my mechanic says, then fromt here on i'll get the denso o2 sensors. Btw is the o2 sensor is located inside the exhaust pipe?

The primary o2 sensor screws into the lower part of your headers, just before the cat (somewhere around there, might be different on the ej8).

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Originally Posted by charliebrown

The primary o2 sensor screws into the lower part of your headers, just before the cat (somewhere around there, might be different on the ej8).

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Alright i'll check it out tomorrow if i have time. Thanks Charliebrown :)

don't have such tunnel vision as to what it could be. You will find alot of cars can go up to 150-200,000km without needing an O2 sensor changed as even tho they have excess carbon build up, they still read quite accurately and are not faulty. On the D16Y engines there is only a single O2 sensor. I think you will find that a good quality on car injector clean will work better wonders that replacing an O2 sensor, as on car injector chemicals are designed to dissolve excess carbon build up.

With the temp gauge being faulty, you need to remember that there are two temp sensors, one is a temp SENDER, that sends the signal to your dash, then there is your temp SENSOR (which is a negative temp coefficient sensor) and this is the sensor that you need to check to see is faulty or not. Your temp sensor is the one that tells your computer how hot or cold the motor is, therefore helping the computer to determine appropriate afr's. If when tested, the coolant temp sensor has a high amp reading, even after letting the car warm up until the thermo fan comes on, you will have a faulty temp sensor as it will be saying that the engine is cold and the ecu will over fuel your motor

Also could be fuel filter, if you have not change it in long time.

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Originally Posted by stndrd

don't have such tunnel vision as to what it could be. You will find alot of cars can go up to 150-200,000km without needing an O2 sensor changed as even tho they have excess carbon build up, they still read quite accurately and are not faulty. On the D16Y engines there is only a single O2 sensor. I think you will find that a good quality on car injector clean will work better wonders that replacing an O2 sensor, as on car injector chemicals are designed to dissolve excess carbon build up.

With the temp gauge being faulty, you need to remember that there are two temp sensors, one is a temp SENDER, that sends the signal to your dash, then there is your temp SENSOR (which is a negative temp coefficient sensor) and this is the sensor that you need to check to see is faulty or not. Your temp sensor is the one that tells your computer how hot or cold the motor is, therefore helping the computer to determine appropriate afr's. If when tested, the coolant temp sensor has a high amp reading, even after letting the car warm up until the thermo fan comes on, you will have a faulty temp sensor as it will be saying that the engine is cold and the ecu will over fuel your motor

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Ohh right thanks for the tip, i'm still new to this so how would you test the coolant temp?

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Originally Posted by hmetro24

Also could be fuel filter, if you have not change it in long time.

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And i changed the fuel filter already, it still has the same problem

And i've taken my car to a mechanic and he says that there is a leak in the exhaust are and will need replacement. He hasn't given me a quote yet as he'll have to order it and get it on Monday. Anybody know a rough estimate on it? I think his just going to replace the cat.

Just get it welded up for cheap. Or find a 2nd hand part on here. Cost you like $50 for a section of stock exhaust. Ordering shit is a rip off

You need a multimeter and do an amps test on the the coolant temp sensor. It will go from 5V (cold) to 0V (hot).

If your mechanic is going to order you a new section of exhaust I would let him replace it. Don't do an el cheapo she'll be right fix. Never forget when it comes to cars, DO IT ONCE AND DO IT PROPERLY

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Originally Posted by charliebrown

Just get it welded up for cheap. Or find a 2nd hand part on here. Cost you like $50 for a section of stock exhaust. Ordering shit is a rip off

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Hmm you rekon a muffler store (like liverpool exhaust) would know how to weild it up? Because yeah im cheap and all lol, i dont wanna spending too much because im not after a performanced car. And yeah i'll have a look around here now see what i can pick up :)

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Originally Posted by stndrd

You need a multimeter and do an amps test on the the coolant temp sensor. It will go from 5V (cold) to 0V (hot).

If your mechanic is going to order you a new section of exhaust I would let him replace it. Don't do an el cheapo she'll be right fix. Never forget when it comes to cars, DO IT ONCE AND DO IT PROPERLY

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Yeah i know but if the price is over 300 to replace it, then i think i might just weild it. Im on a student budget at the moment =\

if you can't afford a brand new pipe, at least get a second hand replacement. I wouldn't waste the weld to patch the hole up

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Originally Posted by stndrd

if you can't afford a brand new pipe, at least get a second hand replacement. I wouldn't waste the weld to patch the hole up

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Yeahh i'll have to see what the quote is, i'll let you guys know on Monday. Thanks alot :)

Update: I've just received a phone call from my mechanic and replacing it will be pricey so i decided to go with weilding for now. After i get a job i'll save up for an aftermarket one. Weilding will cost me $60, is that a reasonable price?

Hey there I am pretty sure welding it for 60 sounds reasonable. Labour cost and all those crap all in yeah? Btw a leaky exhaust can result in higher fuel consumption. Pretty sure your problem will be fixed after that I hope? :)

What part of the exhaust is the hole at? You can just get a new axleback or bpipe for less than $60. Either second hand or get one custom made

$60 to weld that little hole is a ripoff.

Just go to any random exhaust place they'll probably say like $20 if theyre decent blokes

Hey guys, the mechanic rang me earlier tonight saying that there was 2 big holes (shown in the pic) and 4 smaller holes so yeah he wielded all them back in together for $70 now. And im not entirely sure which part t is but i think its the catalyst converter (something like that, its located like in the centre like right where centre console is).

I hope my fuel consumption can be fixed because like 300km on full tank is soo not i was expecting in a civic. If that doesn't fix the problem i might change the o2 sensor and if that doesnt work out then....i dunno =\

This is a bit obvious but... tyre pressure? injectors?

completely random, Can someone give me a link for denso o2 sensor for d16y4? i have the same problem as matt

Part number 234-4099

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DENSO-Part-2...#ht_1371wt_932

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Originally Posted by charliebrown

This is a bit obvious but... tyre pressure? injectors?

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My tyre pressures are normal, not sure about injectors. Anybody know how to clean them? Just the obvious take out and clean with like towel?? lol

just something to compare, my ej8 does about 450km then the fuel light comes on, it's stock, with n*power headers, a pod filter and heavy 17's and manual

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Originally Posted by mattsrea

My tyre pressures are normal, not sure about injectors. Anybody know how to clean them? Just the obvious take out and clean with like towel?? lol

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Either run some injector cleaner or get them ultrasonic bathed

What is ultrasonic bathed? I have been a mechanic for 7 years and have never heard of that. The best thing to do to get injectors cleaned would be to find a mechanic workshop that is an authorised Carbon Clean workshop. Pretty much it is an on car injector & fuel system cleaning machine that I personally believe is the best available on the market. It cleans the fuel rails, injectors, carbon deposits built up around the valves/combustion chamber/piston crown, the O2 sensor & the cat converter. You will pay around $180 but it is well worth it. You pay similar prices just to get someone to pull the injectors out & put them on a bench cleaner. Bottles of fuel system cleaner only work after many treatments and you will not see an immediate results

and Charlie there is no point just throwing up more idea's as it what could be the cause of his poor fuel consumption. Without doing proper checks first, throwing up idea's and making it sound like you know what you are on about ends up costing alot of money. He is on a student budget, so every time he spends money on something that doesn't work will delaying him from fixing his initial problem. Newtons Law: If it ain't broken, don't fix it!

Oh i might do that in the next couple weeks.

Update: Guys my dad has just found out my timing mark align was not right using the Inductive Timing Light, we adjusted it and its in the correct position. I'll see if this improves my millage and if it doesnt i'll consider an injector cleaner.

All of the things i've mentioned are cheap fixes and fixing poor fuel economy is a process of elimination is it not? How is he supposed to just pinpoint out of the blue the exact cause? Better to do it early than keep throwing away money on fuel. I was getting 250 a tank and didn't bother to fix it for over half a year. Who knows how much $$$ was wasted...

Ultrasonic bath is just another method of cleaning the fuel injectors. It's expensive which is why i only stated it as an alternative to a quality pour-in injector cleaner.

Oxygen sensor $60, injector cleaner $8. How is that 'alot of money'?

Ok guys i thank you for helping me, but yeah we all have our opinions, its a community for helping its what we do. Also charliebrown is the injector cleaner like a diy kit or does mechanic have to do i?

It's an additive you pour into your fuel tank. For a bottle of Nulon fuel cleaner your looking around the $13 mark. You will have to run a few bottles before you start seeing or feeling a difference, thus why I said to do an on car injector clean as it will give you instant results, and could possibly save you from having to replace O2 sensors

Oh okay then i'll see what i can do when i have time. Thanks guys

Update: Found out my ignition timing is out of place, im going to take it to a mechanic to retune when i have time