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don't have such tunnel vision as to what it could be. You will find alot of cars can go up to 150-200,000km without needing an O2 sensor changed as even tho they have excess carbon build up, they still read quite accurately and are not faulty. On the D16Y engines there is only a single O2 sensor. I think you will find that a good quality on car injector clean will work better wonders that replacing an O2 sensor, as on car injector chemicals are designed to dissolve excess carbon build up.
With the temp gauge being faulty, you need to remember that there are two temp sensors, one is a temp SENDER, that sends the signal to your dash, then there is your temp SENSOR (which is a negative temp coefficient sensor) and this is the sensor that you need to check to see is faulty or not. Your temp sensor is the one that tells your computer how hot or cold the motor is, therefore helping the computer to determine appropriate afr's. If when tested, the coolant temp sensor has a high amp reading, even after letting the car warm up until the thermo fan comes on, you will have a faulty temp sensor as it will be saying that the engine is cold and the ecu will over fuel your motor
Last edited by stndrd; 12-11-2011 at 09:50 AM.
Kermit EGK20A
Winton: 1:35.08
Wakefield: 1:08.8
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Also could be fuel filter, if you have not change it in long time.
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 Originally Posted by stndrd
don't have such tunnel vision as to what it could be. You will find alot of cars can go up to 150-200,000km without needing an O2 sensor changed as even tho they have excess carbon build up, they still read quite accurately and are not faulty. On the D16Y engines there is only a single O2 sensor. I think you will find that a good quality on car injector clean will work better wonders that replacing an O2 sensor, as on car injector chemicals are designed to dissolve excess carbon build up.
With the temp gauge being faulty, you need to remember that there are two temp sensors, one is a temp SENDER, that sends the signal to your dash, then there is your temp SENSOR (which is a negative temp coefficient sensor) and this is the sensor that you need to check to see is faulty or not. Your temp sensor is the one that tells your computer how hot or cold the motor is, therefore helping the computer to determine appropriate afr's. If when tested, the coolant temp sensor has a high amp reading, even after letting the car warm up until the thermo fan comes on, you will have a faulty temp sensor as it will be saying that the engine is cold and the ecu will over fuel your motor
Ohh right thanks for the tip, i'm still new to this so how would you test the coolant temp?
 Originally Posted by hmetro24
Also could be fuel filter, if you have not change it in long time.
And i changed the fuel filter already, it still has the same problem
And i've taken my car to a mechanic and he says that there is a leak in the exhaust are and will need replacement. He hasn't given me a quote yet as he'll have to order it and get it on Monday. Anybody know a rough estimate on it? I think his just going to replace the cat.
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Just get it welded up for cheap. Or find a 2nd hand part on here. Cost you like $50 for a section of stock exhaust. Ordering shit is a rip off
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You need a multimeter and do an amps test on the the coolant temp sensor. It will go from 5V (cold) to 0V (hot).
If your mechanic is going to order you a new section of exhaust I would let him replace it. Don't do an el cheapo she'll be right fix. Never forget when it comes to cars, DO IT ONCE AND DO IT PROPERLY
Kermit EGK20A
Winton: 1:35.08
Wakefield: 1:08.8
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 Originally Posted by charliebrown
Just get it welded up for cheap. Or find a 2nd hand part on here. Cost you like $50 for a section of stock exhaust. Ordering shit is a rip off
Hmm you rekon a muffler store (like liverpool exhaust) would know how to weild it up? Because yeah im cheap and all lol, i dont wanna spending too much because im not after a performanced car. And yeah i'll have a look around here now see what i can pick up 
 Originally Posted by stndrd
You need a multimeter and do an amps test on the the coolant temp sensor. It will go from 5V (cold) to 0V (hot).
If your mechanic is going to order you a new section of exhaust I would let him replace it. Don't do an el cheapo she'll be right fix. Never forget when it comes to cars, DO IT ONCE AND DO IT PROPERLY
Yeah i know but if the price is over 300 to replace it, then i think i might just weild it. Im on a student budget at the moment =\
Last edited by mattsrea; 12-11-2011 at 11:53 AM.
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if you can't afford a brand new pipe, at least get a second hand replacement. I wouldn't waste the weld to patch the hole up
Kermit EGK20A
Winton: 1:35.08
Wakefield: 1:08.8
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 Originally Posted by stndrd
if you can't afford a brand new pipe, at least get a second hand replacement. I wouldn't waste the weld to patch the hole up
Yeahh i'll have to see what the quote is, i'll let you guys know on Monday. Thanks alot
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Update: I've just received a phone call from my mechanic and replacing it will be pricey so i decided to go with weilding for now. After i get a job i'll save up for an aftermarket one. Weilding will cost me $60, is that a reasonable price?
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Hey there I am pretty sure welding it for 60 sounds reasonable. Labour cost and all those crap all in yeah? Btw a leaky exhaust can result in higher fuel consumption. Pretty sure your problem will be fixed after that I hope?
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What part of the exhaust is the hole at? You can just get a new axleback or bpipe for less than $60. Either second hand or get one custom made
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$60 to weld that little hole is a ripoff.
Just go to any random exhaust place they'll probably say like $20 if theyre decent blokes
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