Is an integra with 250000kms on it excessive if its been mantained well.
wat starts to go wrong?
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Is an integra with 250000kms on it excessive if its been mantained well.
wat starts to go wrong?
if maintained well then you shouldnt have many major problems
everything on the car (minus the chassis itself) can and is replaced or maintained , according to the workshop manual. So , if maintained - the car should pretty much be hassle free. If purchased id do a minor service - change all fluids oil filter thermostat fuel filter etc. And look at replacing most bushes and shocks to reclaim a newer feel
yeah, im planning to change gear and crank oils, change engine mounts, thermostat is fine as it doesnt fluctuate. do everything slowlyQuote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin
the engine mounts were worn thus my post on it, like there was excessive movement when dropping the clutch to quickly
Wear and tear on a clutch isn't really felt by alot of people.Quote:
Originally Posted by aurnob88
You may find that the owner of the car says everything is fine but you notice it slipping.. Problem is many people don't realize something is wrong due to the fact they drive the car day in and out while if you get another friend of yours (if your the owner) who knows what there on about, he'll be able to tell you the same thing.
Engine mounts i would expect to either be worn or would have been replaced on a car with that many km's.
Owner mature i take or no?
Good way to tell if the owner is a person who maintains his belonging, if you go inspect the car (which you will at one stage), if it's at his place, notice, is his garage or front yard a mess or it maintained?
Things like that can you a good idea of how clean and tidy a person is. << Something i looked at when i first looking into buying a DC5R but i took a gamble at bought from a delear in Melbourne with full Honda records and i've NEVER had a drama expect for my starter motor but this a common fault anyway...
Best of luck mate
Yeah seller claimed that car was bought with slipping.clutch and he had it replaced with exedy sports clutch. The clutch seemed to grip hard
Shifts werent that smooth so im assuming.needs change.in fluid as last done 20000 kms ago
I would agree to changing gearbox fluid even if they claim it was just done.Quote:
Originally Posted by aurnob88
Well all fluids i would b changing
yeah, thats the key to mantaining a cars mechanical integrity, along with not thrashing and what notQuote:
Originally Posted by WATAJK
Nothing wrong with 20,000 kms on GBox oil, but a change might make it feel better nonetheless. Just changed mine the other day. Was 35-40,000 old and still clean. GBox feels mostly the same.
If the mounts are cracked you can fill them instead of replacing. A few people are against it but two of my mates did it with their EF8's (one with Sikaflex, one with polyurethane) and they both feel totally fine to drive.
Its piece of mind ! As I stated , best to start afresh with everything you can.Quote:
Originally Posted by dougie_504
Also , its not adviseable to fill broken or worn mounts with sikaflex or similar - it WILL vibrate and will annoy you. Only do it for track or non-daily cars. mounts are easy and cheap to find anyway.
Yeah ill see about thr mounts
My plab for servicing is as follows.
Nulon sae 80 mtf with some.nulon g70 lube ( free up the gears and shifting)
Nulon 10w-30/40 hitech flow engine oil
Engine fuel injector flush and cleaner additivr
Engine mounts
Fuel filter
Ebc green brake pads for front
Teflon brake lines
Abythibg else?
Flush your coolant, brake fluid etc etc
Injectors if you're worried just pull them out and have them cleaned/flow tested.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mobil-Hon...ht_1168wt_1016
How is this oil like, seems pretty cheap for Mobil Honda oil.
take your car to ben!
he will make sure its running goose
bring dat lube because he enjoys getting to know newcomers on ozhonda
i would buy synth oil instead of those honda ones.Quote:
Originally Posted by aurnob88
this you mean?Quote:
Originally Posted by 1900-hustler
http://medcatalog.net/images-drugs/b...a-strength.jpg
haha who are you talking about?Quote:
Originally Posted by 1900-hustler
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/member.php?79-bennjaminQuote:
Originally Posted by aurnob88
Dammit why does my name , lube and newcomers always end up in the same sentences ?
D , B , K conversions , clutch/gearbox installs , suspension servicing, lube and newcomersQuote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin
I do it DIY , so should you !
Stick to Honda MTF, trust me..Quote:
Originally Posted by aurnob88
Most people try an aftermarket MTF and then go back to Honda MTF
If your upgrading brakelines, use goodridge S/S Lines not Teflon, goodridge are ADR approved whilst teflon im unsure of.
does anyone know the prices of honda feo and honda mtfQuote:
Originally Posted by WATAJK
Call Honda?
Yeah I picked up the integration todaym . Vtec is just awesome, goes like a beast at 5500 rpm. And I can tell the engine mounts are holding back the torque to wheels of the car by quite a bit. Even more so cause it has a sports clutch which grabs hard and makes the car bounce all over the place.
Too much sway in the handling, have to fix it up. It has different tyres on each rim haha
lol integration, iphone autocorrect? :L
my teg has 301xxx kms on it and still going strong despite burning and leaking oil everywhere!
Haha galaxy nexus, keeps doing that. I get a bit of a burning oil snell adter some vteccing, im assuming thats not great
Pumped up the 17s to 42 psi front and rears
Definitely better handling and less understeer and sway. Any reccomendations
What size tyres?
42 sounds a bit high. I'd have thought something lower would be better for handling/oversteer.
I used to run 215/40/17 on 34PSI. Went nicely.
Yeah same sizes, i personally like higher pressuees car rills more easily and less deformation of tyre under cornering. Ill probably just change it to 42/40 psi
is a low level ticking niise normal at idle? Valve lash?
Yeah just checked my engine oil levels their really low just above the lower dot . The motor must've burnt a lot of oil over time and vteccing.
The ticking may be valves, yeah.
Do you have a feeler gauge and some other basic tools?
nah dont got feeler gauge and wouldnt attempt to do the valve lash, in case i got it wrong, dont have expereince with taht stuff. anyone know the rates for getting the valve lash adjusted.
Wouldn't be surprised if you get done for at least $200-400.
fuark, $200-$400 for 30mins job.
easy money there lol
i would be happy if someone pays me $100 to do this on their car
30min? Lightning man lol.
They will charge you an hourly rate, probably a base rate, probably advise new valve cover gasket etc.
Hell Lukey- now I don't feel so bad with my DC2 staring down the barrel of 200'000kms.. For the 200k celebrations its a B&M Short Shifter install.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukey
Valve stem seals are on order to stop its latest bad habit.
Just done water pump/timing-belt last weekend; rear wheel bearings a fortnight ago(so much quieter and doesn't rattle any more); Brake Master Cylinder about 10k ago.....
So do tell- what is next to fail, OOPS, I mean- what is next on replacement list?
Tex
Anyone in Sydney want to offer to do it for me? Haha I'll ask benjamin
I think the ticking reduced after I topped IP the oil so maybe valve lashes are fine, supposedly last done 8 months ago. Should I still get it done anyway?
thats the vid of the motor, can hear the ticking noise nad some vacuum noise ven thouigh fans arent on
i think the oil burning smell may be due to the old pcv valve on the intake manifold, it looks black as and old plugged in, from waht i can tell
replace whatever fails lol. ive had a ignition coil in the dizzy die on me, my cmc leaks brakefluid at the clutch pedal and has done for years, just like my oils leaks i dont really care lol i just keep topping it up.Quote:
Originally Posted by TexNAss
my brake proportional valve leaks brake fluid.
had top radiator hose explode but again that was my laziness not replacing it when i knew it needed to be.
just keep up regular servicing and other maintenance items and youll be sweet
my engine needs a full rebuild, but ive picked up a lower km engine to drop in instead
Does anyone know what the suction noise is. Also do I need valve lash?
Thanks Lukey. Damn it- just looked at top hose after i read that- its leaking ~>:) More fun..
Aurnob88- **I CANT VIEW THE VIDEO** Yes you need 'valve lash' refer to http://www.ehow.com/about_5102025_valve-lash.htm.
Essentially its a little play in the valve-train to allow for the valves/cams/gears to expand as they get hot- otherwise the metal would expand and the valves would not close (the heat expands the metals which forces the valves open a few 10ths of a mm. And/Or when the motor was cold the valve wouldn't open fully (because there is too much play).
Not hard to do (as we have a screw and lock-nut design)- try working with shims on motorbikes for something painful.
Hardest things to teach people is the way a feeler gauge should feel when its 'rubbing' between the faces instead of being pinched; and how to tighten the locknut without moving the screw. (DOUBLE CHECK YOUR GAP AFTER YOU"VE TIGHTENED THE NUT.)
Only really 'weirdo' tool needed is a 10mm socket (FROM MEMORY) with a inbuilt screw driver (if you want to get hi-tech and make your life even easier) and feeler guages (most people dont own a set). Both are around 12-15 dollars if you look around.
Team integra has an article on how to do it.
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...djustment.html
Tex.
wear latex/nitrile gloves when doing it on a b series. those edges are sharp
video privacy settings have been fixed everyoneQuote:
Originally Posted by TexNAss
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/t0jRGFwY2Hc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Yeah my PCv valve is definitely gone. Doesn't rattle or anything
still has suction though
what does the lower dot and upper dot on the dipstick represent in terms of oil quanitity in crankcase, it was at about 1/2-3/4 between before, i put in 500ml, went above the upper dot by a bit
mine wasnt really leaking, it had just expanded in size between the 2 clamps and eventually wore thin and burstQuote:
Originally Posted by TexNAss
Can't remember exactly but I think the lower dot represents something like 2/3 or 3/4. Not sure, but it's definitely more than half.Quote:
Originally Posted by aurnob88
Slightly over is fine, just don't fill it to the top of the rocker like some chicks I know :D
Haha nah I guess that's fine then I have to actually try to record how much its burning