70,000km euro service just completed

Hi guys,

I purchased my accord a few months ago and just got it's 70,000km service at courtney and patterson heidelberg.

For all my previous cars i've taken it to my local mechanic but i thought what the hell i'll get it serviced at by a honda dealer. Some of you will disagree, but in my opinion you can't beat a dealer who services the same cars day in day out.

I rang them up and asked them how much it would be and they said about $250 plus about $30 more for FEO synthetic oil so i thought that was reasonable. When i dropped it off i told them not too change anything without checking with me first.

I got a call from them later and the rear brake pads needed to be changed, i was quoted $290 fitted which does not include machined disks which i thought was a bit rich. They said they don't machine them, i found this odd, does anyone know why?

Anyway, approx breakdown was this for anyone interested:

Labour for service: $126
Labour for rear pad change: $105
Rear break pads: $163
FEO sythetic: $63
Oil filter: $23
Washer drain: $2.60
Workshop and environmental charges: $15

I thought $63 for the synthetic was not bad, plus they gave me the 5L bottle with the left over oil without me even asking.

They said the 80,000km major service was about $500ish.

Hope someone finds this useful :)

wow, is 80,000 the major service for euros? thats pretty cheap, does that include timing belt? or is that done at 100,000?

what year is your Euro? just trying to figure out whats the best amount of kms a euro should have when buying second hand,

Right before a major service or after or 20,000 before

Quote:

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Originally Posted by simonhaha

wow, is 80,000 the major service for euros? thats pretty cheap, does that include timing belt? or is that done at 100,000?

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The euros don't have timing belts they have a chain which doesn't need to be changed. If it did they would charge about $1500-2000, honda quoted me around that for my 200,000km service on my 98 accord!

The 80,000km is a lot of fluid changes i think and fuel filter change, it's nothing major like a belt change.

Quote:

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what year is your Euro? just trying to figure out whats the best amount of kms a euro should have when buying second hand

Right before a major service or after or 20,000 before

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My euro is a 2005 luxury 6 speed manual.

My missus drives the euro and she probably clocks up about 15,000kms a year, so getting something with 20,000kms before a major service is worth it for me as it means i'll get another year out of the car before i come to sell it, which is usually when i'm sick of it or when it has about 140-160,000 kms on the clock. Actually i'm hoping to get rid of it in a few years so it will have about 120,000 on the clock which makes it easier to sell. So it's really up to you, i'd be going for one with the lower kms.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by adamc11

Hi guys,

I purchased my accord a few months ago and just got it's 70,000km service at courtney and patterson heidelberg.

For all my previous cars i've taken it to my local mechanic but i thought what the hell i'll get it serviced at by a honda dealer. Some of you will disagree, but in my opinion you can't beat a dealer who services the same cars day in day out.

I rang them up and asked them how much it would be and they said about $250 plus about $30 more for FEO synthetic oil so i thought that was reasonable. When i dropped it off i told them not too change anything without checking with me first.

I got a call from them later and the rear brake pads needed to be changed, i was quoted $290 fitted which does not include machined disks which i thought was a bit rich. They said they don't machine them, i found this odd, does anyone know why?

Anyway, approx breakdown was this for anyone interested:

Labour for service: $126
Labour for rear pad change: $105
Rear break pads: $163
FEO sythetic: $63
Oil filter: $23
Washer drain: $2.60
Workshop and environmental charges: $15

I thought $63 for the synthetic was not bad, plus they gave me the 5L bottle with the left over oil without me even asking.

They said the 80,000km major service was about $500ish.

Hope someone finds this useful :)

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So 500 all up.

But if you DIY, which is not hard at all, you would pay 80 for pads and 59 for oil and filter (on special at repco)= 139. Take the 361 dollars that you saved and buy more tools for your garage. ;)

For the cost of the servicing, the price is typical. However, half of the bill went to your rear brake pads. If you are into DIY and are mechanically competent, then you can do it yourself without much fuss. All you need is your standard socket set, jack, jackstands and the rear brake piston tool to turn and push back in at the same time, but that is cheap at Supercheapauto.

I understand what you guys are saying it wouldn't be hard to change the pads. The only thing with brakes is what if you need the discs machined, i guess you would have to take it to a mechanic to do? Do you need a toque wrench when bolting the discs back on?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by adis

So 500 all up.

But if you DIY, which is not hard at all, you would pay 80 for pads and 59 for oil and filter (on special at repco)= 139. Take the 361 dollars that you saved and buy more tools for your garage. ;)

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I know oil and filter is easy to change, i do it on my 87 accord, but when it comes to sell a car people like to see a stamped book from a mechanic. I certainly wouldn't buy a near new car from someone if they did home jobs, my 87 accord is worth like $2000 so i'm not going to fork out $500 for an oil and filter change and new rear pads!

I used to service at C&P Honda when I got my cl9 (2nd hand) when I was a total noob to understand cars and the mecahnics of it. Yes they do service cars day in and day out but from my experience they couldnt care less about the quality of work

One time they said they tried to raise the undertray for the engine. Later down the track i saw they hadnt even tucked in on top of the bumper with couple clips missing, i fixed it all up. For over a year a part of my air intake wasnt conenct, bleed tube or whatever its called. You would think they would have noticed it and connected it.

Finally on my 110,000 service had most of the 120,000 stuff done. When it came to my 120,000 service, they couldnt be bothered to give me a qoute as it would have been less. I just did a DIY service and saved heaps. I know how my car has to be serviced, I could find any decent mechanic to get it done specifically. I wouldnt go back to Honda again.

On another note, you could get much better brake pads for cheaper

The service at C&P seemed ok, pitty you had a bad experience.

One thing i've noticed just now though that i have never noticed before is that under the passenger footwell i can hear a wining noise when the inside air is on full fan speed. It makes the noise with and without a/c on. Anyone know what causes this whining noise?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by roony

On another note, you could get much better brake pads for cheaper

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Which pads are good? I'll know for next time.

I have some more C&P prices for those interested. My folks have an 04 accord (non euro) that has about 160,000kms.

The 150,000km service was like $300 so not that bad.

The 160,000km service was expensive.

The car was running like shit and had bad front end shudder.

Labour for service: $310
Labour for front brake pads: $105
Labour for rear brake pads and rotors: $210
Labour for replacing rocker cover: $52

Oil filter: $23
Spark plugs: $11 each
Rear pads: $163
Front pads: $175
head cover: $46
"Join Comp, Inbo r" (not sure what this is, RHS drive shaft i think which was causing the shudder): $540
2x Band, join boot: $60
Oil (not synthetic): $40
quote to get new key: $430

+ other things

All up about $2500, ouch.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by adamc11

The service at C&P seemed ok, pitty you had a bad experience.

Which pads are good? I'll know for next time.

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I didnt have a bad experience per say, I mean they deal with you professionally. Its just that they wouldnt treat your car the same as you would, those things I mentioned, minor but for me it counts.

For pads off the top of my head Remsa, hawk. There is thread here somewhere it is discussed in detail.

edit: http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...d-replacement&

Quote:

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Originally Posted by adamc11

I have some more C&P prices for those interested. My folks have an 04 accord (non euro) that has about 160,000kms.

The 150,000km service was like $300 so not that bad.

The 160,000km service was expensive.

The car was running like shit and had bad front end shudder.

Labour for service: $310
Labour for front brake pads: $105
Labour for rear brake pads and rotors: $210
Labour for replacing rocker cover: $52

Oil filter: $23
Spark plugs: $11 each
Rear pads: $163
Front pads: $175
head cover: $46
"Join Comp, Inbo r" (not sure what this is, RHS drive shaft i think which was causing the shudder): $540
2x Band, join boot: $60
Oil (not synthetic): $40
quote to get new key: $430

+ other things

All up about $2500, ouch.

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2500 grand for 160km?? are u serious? i just did mine for 450 bux

can someone explain to a n00b like me what does this mean "Workshop and environmental charges: $15"

what exactly am i paying for when i see this. the dealers cant give me a straight answer, so just wondering if anyone can point me into the right direction

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sensei_

can someone explain to a n00b like me what does this mean "Workshop and environmental charges: $15"

what exactly am i paying for when i see this. the dealers cant give me a straight answer, so just wondering if anyone can point me into the right direction

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its a pretty name for you having your car in their workshop.

also whats the point in new pads if u have to get the rotors machined (i can understand if the pads are dead dead)? a warped rotors will only kill new pads?

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Originally Posted by sensei_

can someone explain to a n00b like me what does this mean "Workshop and environmental charges: $15"

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It was broken down into 2 parts.
Workshop and Sundry Items: $10 - the charge for having your car in their workshop as MR_LATE said
Environmental charges: $5 - i assume for disposing mainly of old oil and other things

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MR_LATE

also whats the point in new pads if u have to get the rotors machined (i can understand if the pads are dead dead)? a warped rotors will only kill new pads?

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That's what i thought, unless the rear rotors are okay. I do know my front ones are warped, i can feel it when i brake heavy.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ergot

2500 grand for 160km?? are u serious? i just did mine for 450 bux

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As i said their car was in bad shape, i'm sure you didn't need a new drive shaft, rocker covers, rear rotors and front and rear pads.

Id buy new rotors instead. Ebay usually has rotors for a price close to what you'd pay for machining

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Originally Posted by MR_LATE

Id buy new rotors instead. Ebay usually has rotors for a price close to what you'd pay for machining

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Some RDA slotted? They are about $350 a set, machining is cheaper than that.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MR_LATE

its a pretty name for you having your car in their workshop.

also whats the point in new pads if u have to get the rotors machined (i can understand if the pads are dead dead)? a warped rotors will only kill new pads?

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by adamc11

It was broken down into 2 parts.
Workshop and Sundry Items: $10 - the charge for having your car in their workshop as MR_LATE said
Environmental charges: $5 - i assume for disposing mainly of old oil and other things

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thanks for clearing up. because ive always thought the "workshop" charges was absorbed into the price/markup of their products.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by adamc11

Hi guys,

I purchased my accord a few months ago and just got it's 70,000km service at courtney and patterson heidelberg.

For all my previous cars i've taken it to my local mechanic but i thought what the hell i'll get it serviced at by a honda dealer. Some of you will disagree, but in my opinion you can't beat a dealer who services the same cars day in day out.

I rang them up and asked them how much it would be and they said about $250 plus about $30 more for FEO synthetic oil so i thought that was reasonable. When i dropped it off i told them not too change anything without checking with me first.

I got a call from them later and the rear brake pads needed to be changed, i was quoted $290 fitted which does not include machined disks which i thought was a bit rich. They said they don't machine them, i found this odd, does anyone know why?

Anyway, approx breakdown was this for anyone interested:

Labour for service: $126
Labour for rear pad change: $105
Rear break pads: $163
FEO sythetic: $63
Oil filter: $23
Washer drain: $2.60
Workshop and environmental charges: $15

I thought $63 for the synthetic was not bad, plus they gave me the 5L bottle with the left over oil without me even asking.

They said the 80,000km major service was about $500ish.

Hope someone finds this useful :)

---

Firstly, I think you got ripped off with the rear pads. My RB3 Odyssey just had its 80K service, and the dealer quoted me $250 to replace the rear pads..I said "no thanks".. bought pads for $75 and installed it myself.. took me 30 min (without power tools). When they say they don't machine them.. they don't do the machining there..better take it to a brake specialist who has the proper lathe (about $100 if they remove and install for you, $50 if you do the removal and re-install yourself) Prices for all the others are about the same across the dealer network.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MR_LATE

Id buy new rotors instead. Ebay usually has rotors for a price close to what you'd pay for machining

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I don't know where you get your machining done, but you're getting ripped off ..lol... either that or the eBay rotors that you're talking about cost $66 a pair..

You dont need slotted for daily. Just get standard rotors. For reference DBA street series standard rotors could be had for 50$ for rear (each) and $83 for the front (each). RDA I would be cheaper than DBA.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sensei_

thanks for clearing up. because ive always thought the "workshop" charges was absorbed into the price/markup of their products.

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Well i've never seen my other mechanics do this, so they either don't charge it or they include it in their price markups. One thing i have noticed from comparing my parents C&P receipts and mine is that they seem to have fixed prices for things, i.e. changing the brakes was $105 for both cars, they don't just make it up as they go or adjust parts prices and labour prices like your local mechanics might.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Adrian128

Firstly, I think you got ripped off with the rear pads.

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Yes it would seem so. From now on i think i will just take my car in for it's service at honda every 10k, if they ring me and say that something needs to be done like brakes, i'll say leave it and then i'll do it myself. That way the book gets stamped and they will have let me know if something needs to be done :)

To change the rotors do you need a torque wrench?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by adamc11

Well i've never seen my other mechanics do this, so they either don't charge it or they include it in their price markups. One thing i have noticed from comparing my parents C&P receipts and mine is that they seem to have fixed prices for things, i.e. changing the brakes was $105 for both cars, they don't just make it up as they go or adjust parts prices and labour prices like your local mechanics might.

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Most mechanics just include it in the price..dealers usually charge you for everything, and that's how they make their money. Dealers also usually charge set rates for certain services, whereas your local mechanic will charge you labour per hour..because some cars are much harder (or easier) to work on.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by adamc11

To change the rotors do you need a torque wrench?

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Well, it's always handy to have a good torque wrench in your toolbox.. but, you don't really need it to change rotors...just a big phillips screwdriver, hammer, and a decent socket/wrench set.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Adrian128

Well, it's always handy to have a good torque wrench in your toolbox.. but, you don't really need it to change rotors...just a big phillips screwdriver, hammer, and a decent socket/wrench set.

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Any recommendations on a good torque wrench without spending a ridiculous amount? What do you need the phillips head for? The only sockets i have are cheap nasty ones, been looking at buying either a bahco metric set, total tools, kincrome or sidcrome. There are also repco ones but i think they are expensive for repco brand, too many to choose from.

The big Phillips head screwdriver is for removing the 2 screws that hold the rotors in place. After removing the caliper assembly (2 bolts on the back) you tap the screws with the screwdriver (using the hammer) to loosen them up, then just remove the screws.

Yea I'm talking about really really cheap rotors :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sensei_

can someone explain to a n00b like me what does this mean "Workshop and environmental charges: $15"

what exactly am i paying for when i see this. the dealers cant give me a straight answer, so just wondering if anyone can point me into the right direction

---

That's for disposing your old oil. However, in reality it costs much less than that.
My council waste management centre takes up to 10 litres at a time for zero dollars.

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Originally Posted by adamc11

To change the rotors do you need a torque wrench?

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No, the only part that I torque up would be the wheelnuts and that is with my human torque wrench.

There is no space to get a standard 1/2" drive torque wrench into the wheelwell to do up the caliper bracket and the caliper mounting bolts.

To remove rotors, you will need an impact screwdriver ($20 and you use a hammer to operate it. It's shitty), or a cheapo impact screwdriver. I use a cheap $90 Ozito that I have lying around for assembling my Ikea furniture. Just need a size #2 or #3 phillips screw head.

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Originally Posted by aaronng

No, the only part that I torque up would be the wheelnuts and that is with my human torque wrench.

There is no space to get a standard 1/2" drive torque wrench into the wheelwell to do up the caliper bracket and the caliper mounting bolts.

To remove rotors, you will need an impact screwdriver ($20 and you use a hammer to operate it. It's shitty), or a cheapo impact screwdriver. I use a cheap $90 Ozito that I have lying around for assembling my Ikea furniture. Just need a size #2 or #3 phillips screw head.

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Would an impact driver with a strong impact screw bit work? I have a Makita BHP454 hammer drill with batteries and charge, i could either of these

http://www.makita.com.au/products/lx...driver?Prodid=

http://www.makita.com.au/products/lx...wrench?Prodid=

I think for the BTW251Z though i would need an adapter to for in a screw bit.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by carlosshane1477

well it not does big of a deal for the timing belt but also check it first for it need replacement or repair to prevent further damage. here are some guide you can use for checking and to know how to replace a timing belt on your own.

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I don't understand what your saying.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by aaronng

That's for disposing your old oil. However, in reality it costs much less than that.
My council waste management centre takes up to 10 litres at a time for zero dollars.

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Fair call. I guess its like the tire disposal fees.

I remember being charged $10 for a tire that I requested to be put back in the car (use in my garden).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by adamc11

Would an impact driver with a strong impact screw bit work? I have a Makita BHP454 hammer drill with batteries and charge, i could either of these

http://www.makita.com.au/products/lx...driver?Prodid=

http://www.makita.com.au/products/lx...wrench?Prodid=

I think for the BTW251Z though i would need an adapter to for in a screw bit.

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BHP454Z is not really suitable. It is a hammer drill for drilling masonry......
BTP140Z is cheaper and more straightforward. However, for car use, the BTW251Z is great for everything else since it has a 1/2" square drive. It is very expensive though, I expect it to cost AU$600.

Personally, a $90 Ozito or some cheapo brand will work since this will not be for constant high stress use.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by aaronng

No, the only part that I torque up would be the wheelnuts and that is with my human torque wrench.

There is no space to get a standard 1/2" drive torque wrench into the wheelwell to do up the caliper bracket and the caliper mounting bolts.

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You should always torque the caliper bolts.
Turn the steering outwards to get better access to the bolts like so,

http://saturdaymechanic.com/wordpres...r-680x1024.jpg

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Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T

You should always torque the caliper bolts.
Turn the steering outwards to get better access to the bolts like so,

[IMG]http://saturdaymechanic.com/wordpress2/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/18.-Attach-the-caliper-680x1024.jpg[IMG]

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At the rate that I am torquing it, it is above what the service manual recommends. And yes, I do it in the exact same way as in that photo, with a spanner and ratchet.

However, you still can't get a torque wrench into the area where the caliper bracket bolts are. That is behind the rotor and the torque wrench ends up having to point upwards into the wheel well. Fine if you have a 4x4, but not enough clearance if you have a passenger car.

The torque wrench shouldnt be up in the well.Use a shorthandle 3/8 from below in the same position as above pic
One point to add he is holding the tools in an awkward manner.Far better to position yourself towards the front with right hand pulling toward your body

The mechanic I took my car to was able to use a torque wrench when he did the caliper bracket bolts (NOT the ones in the picture), but this was in an Odyssey.

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Originally Posted by adamc11

I don't understand what your saying.

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what I'm saying is that, you could save a lot of money, if you know how to do it on your own.

adamc11, how's the feo ultra oil doing for you?

Been using royal purple for the past 40000km but will be putting this in my civic tomorrow to give it a go.