uni student wanting a type r !! need your guidance !

hey everyone, firstly, please dont tell me to search because i have searched all the threads relating to my question not only on this site, but various sites and i havnt really been guided to a decision yet, hopefully i can be here..

it started 3 years ago where a friend mentioned type r's to me and i started researching them and instantly fell in love. always been a dc5r fan but recently ep3 too.

i am a full time uni student with little income, i do own a car and maintain it easily but i used that to help me save for this upgrade !

i really would like to settle with an evo but i will be at uni for another few years and maintenance and running costs is out of the question for me, so i am planning to buy this type r to keep for a few years.

what i would like to know is:
-the reliability of these cars, if anything gos out on them what would it be and how much would i be expecting to pay?
-every when,does one service their honda (every how many kms, minor and major services) ? including what service items and how much ?
- what about fuel economy ? will i be breaking the bank ? what fuel do you usually fill up with how much does the tank cost and how many kms do you get ? APPROXIMATELY.
-i am still undecided about whether i should buy a dc5r or ep3r, but knowing the ep3 is an import i am afraid i will be paying way more to maintain it than a dc5r which will defeat the whole purpose of me not buying the evo in the first place .

thanks in advance really appreciate it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RA73DR

hey everyone, firstly, please dont tell me to search because i have searched all the threads relating to my question not only on this site, but various sites and i havnt really been guided to a decision yet, hopefully i can be here..

it started 3 years ago where a friend mentioned type r's to me and i started researching them and instantly fell in love. always been a dc5r fan but recently ep3 too.

i am a full time uni student with little income, i do own a car and maintain it easily but i used that to help me save for this upgrade !

i really would like to settle with an evo but i will be at uni for another few years and maintenance and running costs is out of the question for me, so i am planning to buy this type r to keep for a few years.

what i would like to know is:
-the reliability of these cars, if anything gos out on them what would it be and how much would i be expecting to pay?
-every when,does one service their honda (every how many kms, minor and major services) ? including what service items and how much ?
- what about fuel economy ? will i be breaking the bank ? what fuel do you usually fill up with how much does the tank cost and how many kms do you get ? APPROXIMATELY. If you cant afford fuel for a Honda then by a push bike.
-i am still undecided about whether i should buy a dc5r or ep3r, but knowing the ep3 is an import i am afraid i will be paying way more to maintain it than a dc5r which will defeat the whole purpose of me not buying the evo in the first place .

thanks in advance really appreciate it.

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In a nut shell:

reliability - same as anyother car as long as they are maintained right, but Hondas have are a bit more leaniant with parts less prone to failure due to high quality engineering
service intervals - every 10k km at least by a reputabile mechanic (usually a couple hundred of dollars no more unless things break), most owners do a simple oil and filter change at 5k km themselves. Most major services are at 100 k km intervals, i dont have a service book so cant tell you what exactly needs to be done.
fuel economy - depends how you drive, expect 400-500km, bit less if hammering it. Use premium, price dependant on the day of the week, but the tank is usually 45L. More info: http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...C5R-DC5S/page3

regarding your choice with a dc5r or ep3r, that has been covered many times so you can search that.

Honestly, if you have your heart set on that LanEvo... Stay with your current DD and continue saving till you can get it... I'm not saying the Type-Rs [DC5R/EP3R] aren't a great drive and a great experience however you'll be sinking money into them in no time which you could be using to fund for a LanEvo instead. The Civic-R or Integra-R can come after you've had your fun in the LanEvo ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DreadAngel

Honestly, if you have your heart set on that LanEvo... Stay with your current DD and continue saving till you can get it...

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:thumbsup:

but every mother and her daughter has a LanEvo :O

not a tight car cos not type r

yeah never see a type R do you


lmaooooooo

I see both frequently enough...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RA73DR

Honestly, if you have your heart set on that LanEvo... Stay with your current DD and continue saving till you can get it... I'm not saying the Type-Rs [DC5R/EP3R] aren't a great drive and a great experience however you'll be sinking money into them in no time which you could be using to fund for a LanEvo instead. The Civic-R or Integra-R can come after you've had your fun in the LanEvo

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i will be on my full license allowing me to buy one in a year and half or so but like i said i am a uni student and dont want to blow all my money on the car, esp since its my dream car and want to keep it as long as it lasts i would like to be generous with it, so thats out of the question till i get a full time job after uni which is a couple years.

besides, i have owned a charade for a year now and upgrading to a type r will be like a ferrari to me LOL.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RA73DR

In a nut shell:

reliability - same as anyother car as long as they are maintained right, but Hondas have are a bit more leaniant with parts less prone to failure due to high quality engineering
service intervals - every 10k km at least by a reputabile mechanic (usually a couple hundred of dollars no more unless things break), most owners do a simple oil and filter change at 5k km themselves. Most major services are at 100 k km intervals, i dont have a service book so cant tell you what exactly needs to be done.
fuel economy - depends how you drive, expect 400-500km, bit less if hammering it. Use premium, price dependant on the day of the week, but the tank is usually 45L. More info: http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...C5R-DC5S/page3

regarding your choice with a dc5r or ep3r, that has been covered many times so you can search that.

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a service every 10k km that cost a couple hundred ?? what is it that should be serviced? i thought only oil and oil filter get changed at 5-10k km intervals and major services were like what you said. what about the gearbox oil and lsd , every when do they get serviced ?

that thread doesnt say ivicing will cost more ?
f it is dificult obtaining parts, and if ser
thank you

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RA73DR

a service every 10k km that cost a couple hundred ?? what is it that should be serviced? i thought only oil and oil filter get changed at 5-10k km intervals and major services were like what you said. what about the gearbox oil and lsd , every when do they get serviced ?

that thread doesnt say ivicing will cost more ?
f it is dificult obtaining parts, and if ser
thank you

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there are plenty of rubber seals in your engine that deteriorates overtime due to heat and oil.
these needs to be replaced. clutch wear out, bushes crack, seals blow, tires go bald

the world aint all sunshine and rainbow weetec on weetec off

http://i.imgur.com/hkxAB.png

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mocchi

there are plenty of rubber seals in your engine that deteriorates overtime due to heat and oil.
these needs to be replaced. clutch wear out, bushes crack, seals blow, tires go bald

the world aint all sunshine and rainbow weetec on weetec off

http://i.imgur.com/hkxAB.png

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thats understandable, normal service items, expensive to have done ? parts ? i have mechanics who own an ep3 they know their hondas and they are mates, but really its the cost of parts im worried about really

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RA73DR

thats understandable, normal service items, expensive to have done ? parts ? i have mechanics who own an ep3 they know their hondas and they are mates, but really its the cost of parts im worried about really

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example:

input shaft bearing.
bearing cost $45, gearbox fluid $45, labour $600+

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RA73DR

i will be on my full license allowing me to buy one in a year and half or so but like i said i am a uni student and dont want to blow all my money on the car, esp since its my dream car and want to keep it as long as it lasts i would like to be generous with it, so thats out of the question till i get a full time job after uni which is a couple years.

besides, i have owned a charade for a year now and upgrading to a type r will be like a ferrari to me LOL.

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I don't think you quite understand my explanation...

The idea is that if you buy the Type-R, you push back your dream car even more and before you know it, reality sets in and well your LanEvo will be too old and too expensive to own and there goes your dream.

Unlike majority of Hondas, LanEvo is an expensive car to run and maintain, the older it is, the more expensive it gets, just like a Skyline GT-R. Its better to experience it while they're still not too old and stuff like AYC and Diffs are still in good working order.

If you do it right, you can run a higher maintenance and modified car... I did it with my car, running hi-comp, aggressive cams, fuel economy like a rotary, etc... While on part time job and Uni...

yeah then pass it off to some young idiot later and buy a bmw or merc

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mocchi

example:

input shaft bearing.
bearing cost $45, gearbox fluid $45, labour $600+

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every how many kms does the gearbox fluid/oil usually need to be done, do you know ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RA73DR

every how many kms does the gearbox fluid/oil usually need to be done, do you know ?

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google dc5r service manual and have a read.
tells you alot.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DreadAngel

I don't think you quite understand my explanation...

The idea is that if you buy the Type-R, you push back your dream car even more and before you know it, reality sets in and well your LanEvo will be too old and too expensive to own and there goes your dream.

Unlike majority of Hondas, LanEvo is an expensive car to run and maintain, the older it is, the more expensive it gets, just like a Skyline GT-R. Its better to experience it while they're still not too old and stuff like AYC and Diffs are still in good working order.

If you do it right, you can run a higher maintenance and modified car... I did it with my car, running hi-comp, aggressive cams, fuel economy like a rotary, etc... While on part time job and Uni...

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thanks for your advice, i do understand what you mean, but it seems too high risk for me at the mean time, knowing that the job i do (security) has its weeks where its dead and weeks where its flat out, some weeks only living on 100 bucks for that week, which wont go down too well with an evo.. unless all i do is drive it to uni and back home no going out lol..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RA73DR

every how many kms does the gearbox fluid/oil usually need to be done, do you know ?

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Between 40,000-50,000KM.

Its not recommended to change it too frequently

As for the clutch, they should last a good 90,000 depending on what type of clutch you get.

I have owned a dc5 for about a year and a half now. No major problems at all. The reliability is second to none. Just look after it with good fluids and a proper check up once every 6 months and you should be good.

As for fuel economy, my fuel tank is 50L, I can get 600KM max out of a tank but this is driving like a granny. Really just depends how heavy footed you are.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by teee94

Between 40,000-50,000KM.

Its not recommended to change it too frequently

As for the clutch, they should last a good 90,000 depending on what type of clutch you get.

I have owned a dc5 for about a year and a half now. No major problems at all. The reliability is second to none. Just look after it with good fluids and a proper check up once every 6 months and you should be good.

As for fuel economy, my fuel tank is 50L, I can get 600KM max out of a tank but this is driving like a granny. Really just depends how heavy footed you are.

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thanx for that, this really pushes me to buy one lol. do you use oem fluids or aftermarket ? and approximately how much does it cost you to fill up and with which fuel type ? once again, thank you.

oem for gearbox

any quality oil within spec for engine

thank you !

As EKVTIR-T said OEM for gearbox and any quality oil for the engine. I use OEM MTF for the gearbox which cost $20 a litre. You need 1.8L for a gearbox oil change.
As for engine oil, you have all the choices in the world. I would personally recommend and oils that are 10W-40 Fully Synthetic. My preferred choice is Penrite Everyday 10W-40 Fully synthetic.
As the Type is a performance engine you would atleast need 95 Octane Fuel. But I strongly suggest you use 98. I always fill up with BP Ultimate 98 Octane. It cost me about $75 for a full tank and lasts me for 2 weeks as I dont drive that much.

Also remember that fuel prices fluctuate often. So it could cost about $80 for a full tank at times.

They are great cars, they have the power when you need it. Just dont expect any DC5Rs ride to comfy. But the Recaros in them are amazing. IMO makes up for the harsh ride. :D

Be prepared to spend about 15-20K for a good one. The components IMO that are most important when buying a DC5 is the Gearbox, Engine, Clutch. Problems that occur in alot of DC5's are rear tailight gasket leaks (Easy DIY fix), Actuators (Easy DIY fix). Note that the DC5 are a 10 year old car. Also the gearboxes in a DC5R is very mechanically noisy. Most owners would agree that though the gear changes are quite smooth, theres a very noticeable mechanical noise that you can hear when you're shifting. Dont that this the wrong way, it's perfectly normal..

Thats all I could think of at the moment.

thanx for that, really appreciate it. when it comes time for buying one, do ou think it ould be a bad idea to buy one with kms between 150k -200k km but with log books ? there are a few outn there with km under 150k but no log books

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RA73DR

thanx for that, really appreciate it. when it comes time for buying one, do ou think it ould be a bad idea to buy one with kms between 150k -200k km but with log books ? there are a few outn there with km under 150k but no log books

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Its nice to have log books, but once again, it really depends how its been looked after. There could be one with say 120,000 without log books and it could have a healthier engine than one with 150,000km with log books. I wouldn't suggest with going cheap. As people say, you get what you pay for. When I bought mine, it was a bit pricy but the owner knew he's shit. He had pictures to prove what kind of damage the car's been through etc. Even though I paid abit more than what was going around, it was worth it in the long run. Owner even had a compression test which gives you a good idea about the health of the engine. You would want around 210-220 PSI on each cylinder. Most DC5 on the market now don't have log books. My one didn't come with one but as I have said, the cars running good. You just need to find one that's been well looked after. Preferably with log books but not essential. And preferably one that hasn't been tracked or been in a major accident. Do expect these car to be driven hard as that is its purpose and do expect the odd small accident.

what if i was to pick one up at higher kms like 170k km, say it is healthy at the time, how many kms would you expect to get out of these hondas if well looked after, obviously driving them hard, not tracking, but servicing and maintaining etc. and dont things just start to rattle etc towards the higher end of the kms ? when i bought my charade it was fine and now 20k kms later it well in the 200k kms mark and things rattle and shake and i cant source it and it just makes me want to drive into a pole lol.

First off, no offence and not to directly say "don't get any of those cars". But most importantly, don't live beyond your means despite the Lanevo being your dream car - people living beyond their means was the cause of the gfc (along with banks being to generous). If your line of work provides inconsistent income, you should only be forking out max 20% of your previous year's annual income on a car just to get to uni, home, work, and errands. It's pretty crappy to live on scraps because you bought a car that makes you think twice about filling up 98 to the brim every week.
Unless you have a full-time intern job along with part-time uni, and the job gets you approx $50-60k per year, then definitely just go with whatever. Heck, even buy a 2nd hand porsche on finance.
Morale of the story: set your priorities and ask questions;
1. Is getting your dream car now worth living on potatoes?
2. What else could you be spending all that hard-earned dosh on instead of a dc5r or lanevo?

inb4, I'm a uni student with casual job earning approx $300 a week, was going to get a clean dc5r with a little help from dad, but resorted to getting a shitty ek1 for $1300 and cleaning it up. The little civic is definitely not my dream car, but I've began to love it through rebuilding little bits and piece of it. I knew I was only going to use it for going to uni, the station, work and errands, it was definitely not worth spending a majority of my savings on a get-around vehicle.

Buy a car you'll love, not because it'll make your friends jelly. Because when you do, they'll one-up you =]

Hey man... I actually went from a 1.3L charade to a dc2r.. both cars great condition as im really fussy with cars i bought my charade with 110,000 kms off first owner...

Dont get me wrong i love my dc2r... btw im also uni with part time job.. but like the guys above have said dont push beyonds your mean the charade was great.. I actually miss it

the power of the dc2r i dunno about others but i got over i dont find it fast at all anymore i mean i appreciate it and love the fact that its quick for a 1.8L but its no monster.

In terms of money youve got to weigh up if you can afford it.. not just the initial cost but petrol goes from 91 unleaded to 98 every tank costs about $30 more to the charade each fill with less kms.. insurance will definately atleast double.. maintenance wise e.g. you dont wanna put shitty tyres on a nice car with my charade 4 tyres cost me like 250 bucks lol ill be lucky to get tyres under 750$

end of the day it is your decision im happy to of experienced the dc2r.. btw make sure u dont buy the car and leave $0 to your name.. you never know something could go wrong id like to have atleast 2-3k in my bank account..

Goodluck mate

ye mun keep in mind insurance is killer for uni students. most places quote me 3-4k for a type R

Quote:

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Originally Posted by charliebrown

ye mun keep in mind insurance is killer for uni students. most places quote me 3-4k for a type R

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i insure it under my dads name with myself not listed.. AAMI insure everyone that has consent to drive the car.. Excess is a killer but its a risk you need to be willing to take.. so insurance cost me 800$ although there maximum insurance price is 12.9k FFS!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by vtec_yoo

i insure it under my dads name with myself not listed.. AAMI insure everyone that has consent to drive the car.. Excess is a killer but its a risk you need to be willing to take.. so insurance cost me 800$ although there maximum insurance price is 12.9k FFS!

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is this not fraud?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by charliebrown

is this not fraud?

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everybuddy does it

Quote:

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Originally Posted by charliebrown

ye mun keep in mind insurance is killer for uni students. most places quote me 3-4k for a type R

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Is it really? Is that a question they ask in the insurance application? Im a couple years older than an average uni student and my insurance is only $1200 (SGIC). Unless it is different here in SA - they are still 4 cylinder N/As so i dont understand how it is so expensive?

Yeah, not sure what the go there is. I'm a few years out of uni and can get dc2r insurance for 8-900 under my name, nothing dodgy. However, one of the bad points with the cheaper insurance companies is they will only let you go so far with the agreed value, like vtec_yoo said.

^ in nsw, anyone under 24 to insurance companies are nukes.

becuz theyre hoons

Yeah I pay $600 P/A under my parents name. I got quoted 3.5K if it was under my name. And agreed value of 14,075 :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by infurNOS

Is it really? Is that a question they ask in the insurance application? Im a couple years older than an average uni student and my insurance is only $1200 (SGIC). Unless it is different here in SA - they are still 4 cylinder N/As so i dont understand how it is so expensive?

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type R theft magnet

so what happens when you crash and they don't pay out? its like paying $800 a year for nothing

its not hard to prove your 60 year old dad is not the daily driver of a souped up dc2r

Quote:

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Originally Posted by charliebrown

so what happens when you crash and they don't pay out? its like paying $800 a year for nothing

its not hard to prove your 60 year old dad is not the daily driver of a souped up dc2r

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You actually just pay an excess premium on top of your excess. Eg 700 normal excess + 1200 excess for unlisted driver under the age of 25 if you chose that cover. And even then the Premium per year is under 1000.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by teee94

You actually just pay an excess premium on top of your excess. Eg 700 normal excess + 1200 excess for unlisted driver under the age of 25 if you chose that cover. And even then the Premium per year is under 1000.

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Correct, like i stated its a risk you've got to weigh up if its worth taking or not... Drive sensibly and you should be fine.. worse case scenario your excess is 3k but if you dont have an accident for 2-3 years and your premium is 3k youve already saved

Actually, speaking about insurance, my renewal just arrived.

My premium has increased and my agreed value has dropped by an unbelieable $6000. WTF!

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Originally Posted by infurNOS

Actually, speaking about insurance, my renewal just arrived.

My premium has increased and my agreed value has dropped by an unbelieable $6000. WTF!

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What car do you own ? :S

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Originally Posted by teee94

What car do you own ? :S

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Dc2r, 2001 model...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by infurNOS

Dc2r, 2001 model...

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How the hell did it drop 6K ? How much is it worth now ? :S

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Originally Posted by teee94

How the hell did it drop 6K ? How much is it worth now ? :S

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exactly my question, especially in 1 year, so angry. I could maybe understand 3-4 years but not 1...

Went from 19k insured to 13k

Quote:

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Originally Posted by infurNOS

exactly my question, especially in 1 year, so angry. I could maybe understand 3-4 years but not 1...

Went from 19k insured to 13k

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Dam.. Im amazed you could insure it for that much in the first place. Could only get 14K for my DC5R...

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Originally Posted by teee94

Dam.. Im amazed you could insure it for that much in the first place. Could only get 14K for my DC5R...

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you mean your parents DC5R :P

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Originally Posted by charliebrown

you mean your parents DC5R :P

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Haha you cheeky one !

Quote:

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Originally Posted by charliebrown

so what happens when you crash and they don't pay out? its like paying $800 a year for nothing

its not hard to prove your 60 year old dad is not the daily driver of a souped up dc2r

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speak to these guys

http://jims.net/insurance/templates/...mages/logo.png

Quote:

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Originally Posted by infurNOS

Actually, speaking about insurance, my renewal just arrived.

My premium has increased and my agreed value has dropped by an unbelieable $6000. WTF!

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have you tried shannons?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by teee94

What car do you own ? :S

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lol
frontpage m8 http://www.ozhonda.com/

Quote:

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Originally Posted by charliebrown

so what happens when you crash and they don't pay out? its like paying $800 a year for nothing

its not hard to prove your 60 year old dad is not the daily driver of a souped up dc2r

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And how is that so....

thanx for your input guys, i know that feel of living of scraps, when i didnt know absolutely anything about cars and bought a sss pulsar, it was just hard to maintain and enjoy. its always on my mind if i should buy a car or wait till i leave uni, but being at uni part time isnt an option, and i wont be finished uni till 3 years or so and i really need this upgrade, im not buying it to make my friends envy me, i am a type r fan, the plan initially was to buy it and sell itin a year and a half on my full license to buy an s15 or evo, but that plan now changed to keeping the type r until the end of uni.. and working 2-3 nights a week earning 400 ( which you snared) isnt a problem, its actually excellent.. but thank you anyway

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RA73DR

thanx for your input guys, i know that feel of living of scraps, when i didnt know absolutely anything about cars and bought a sss pulsar, it was just hard to maintain and enjoy. its always on my mind if i should buy a car or wait till i leave uni, but being at uni part time isnt an option, and i wont be finished uni till 3 years or so and i really need this upgrade, im not buying it to make my friends envy me, i am a type r fan, the plan initially was to buy it and sell itin a year and a half on my full license to buy an s15 or evo, but that plan now changed to keeping the type r until the end of uni.. and working 2-3 nights a week earning 400 ( which you snared) isnt a problem, its actually excellent.. but thank you anyway

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lol that was my original plan.. to keep for a yr and sell to buy an s15 or evo.. but im not buying another sports car till i have full time employment..

I manage to run my car and have spare cash on $450 a week.. but i work weekends only so i dont go out :D

ballin

Gotta learn to just budget your money correctly. I earn close to that amount working part time and going uni full time, i drive 500kms a week and have enough funds to mod and maintain the dc5r. All about dat budget m8

vtec_yoo, thats my plan too, to wait till full time employment until upgrade from type r LOL. fh93 and vtec_yoo, how much do you see yourself spending on your car weekly for the requirements, not including mods..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RA73DR

vtec_yoo, thats my plan too, to wait till full time employment until upgrade from type r LOL. fh93 and vtec_yoo, how much do you see yourself spending on your car weekly for the requirements, not including mods..

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Requirements are probably only petrol and insurance so weekly just under $100. Then add in whatever your service will cost you.

+1 planned of moving onto evos but didn't happen lol

As for my experience with my car, the maintenance cost has been very low. Frequent maintenance included oil and filter change every 5k, spark plugs every 10k or so and some parts wearing out (brake pads, rotors etc) which are not that expensive.
BUT this is given that I replace old parts before they break down on me with spare cash I have.. It really is very affordable to maintain even as a full time uni student (for dc2r at least)

s15 number one car on the planet, mate

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Originally Posted by rhys.l

s15 number one car on the planet, mate

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way to common, i see about 3 in my 17km drive to work every day.

My mechanic who owns a 180sx says they munch gearboxes like there's no tomorrow

Maintenance isn't much, just petrol which is usually $55-56 per week. When a basic service comes including oil, filter, plugs it costs less than $100.

recomended gb oil change every 40k to 50k kms watttttttt

am i crazy for doin it every 10k kms

moh gawd

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rhys.l

s15 number one car on the planet, mate

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You need to get out more...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by vtec_yoo

My mechanic who owns a 180sx says they munch gearboxes like there's no tomorrow

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S15 6Spd does not handle abuse compared to the S13-S14 5Spd. IIRC, they tried cramming 6spd gearset into a 5spd gearbox casing? =|

s15 really is the best car hands down

r33 5spd stronger

Getrag v160 ftw. Lol

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Originally Posted by mocchi

s15 really is the best car hands down

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It really is, just ask any p plater on Ozhonda, mate. I used to own one and it was so good i bought a dc2r

pfft. ek's are the bestest. power? they're like micra's on E.
cost and reliability? they get thrown around because they're like cheap sluts; no matter how old or how many they've done; they still end up with someone riding them -- oh wait, maybe that's a bad thing. :D



but hey, EK's! :thumbsup:

Had an evo .. got rid of evo and got dc5r best feeling ever.....
There is this feeling the Type R gives me had an s2000 before and that didnt last very long
DC5r only thing that puts me off is McPherson Suspension

s15 is nice wouldnt mind owning a white one

i recommend nissan silvia s15:thumbsup:

If I'd found a decent S15 before I found my DC2R I would have bought it. But finding a decent S15 is not easy.

According to most owners they had never been thrashed.

according to some honda owners,only used vtec 4 times..

Skip to 40 seconds.. i hell love this dc2r looks so clean and sounds amazing makes me regret getting dc5r

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=03dQf...1JpKgw&index=6

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Originally Posted by J-Spec23

Had an evo .. got rid of evo and got dc5r best feeling ever.....
There is this feeling the Type R gives me had an s2000 before and that didnt last very long
DC5r only thing that puts me off is McPherson Suspension

s15 is nice wouldnt mind owning a white one

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Da fuq? Dc5 feels better then Evo?

DC5R Mod List
- toda headers
- karcept adaptor
- RRC manifold
- BYP titanium exhaust
- spoon throttle body
- GruppeM intake
- Kpro ECU tuned & dyno to pull 213hp at the wheels


Handling
- teins monoflex
- front jdm aluminum lower control arm
- jdm front sway bar
- jdm subframe
- jdm driveshafts
- jdm brembo
- superpro front caster bushings
- j's racing roll centre adjusters
- mugen front rotors-
endless ccrg brake pads for the brembos
- spoon rigid collar
- 17inch advan RZ wheels with advan ad08 tyres 245/40 front and 225/45 rear

Yes

Quote:

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Originally Posted by J-Spec23

DC5R Mod List
- toda headers
- karcept adaptor
- RRC manifold
- BYP titanium exhaust
- spoon throttle body
- GruppeM intake
- Kpro ECU tuned & dyno to pull 213hp at the wheels


Handling
- teins monoflex
- front jdm aluminum lower control arm
- jdm front sway bar
- jdm subframe
- jdm driveshafts
- jdm brembo
- superpro front caster bushings
- j's racing roll centre adjusters
- mugen front rotors-
endless ccrg brake pads for the brembos
- spoon rigid collar
- 17inch advan RZ wheels with advan ad08 tyres 245/40 front and 225/45 rear

Yes

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Bawssss

Haha :o... so yeah the maintenance is definitely affordable!