sup guys,
anyone used UNI-CHIP q box to tune their Euro's?
if so let me know how it was....
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sup guys,
anyone used UNI-CHIP q box to tune their Euro's?
if so let me know how it was....
So the uni chip has been installed. Tune to be done Monday as they were busy to do it all in a day.
Anyone interested in tuning their euro's
where did you get it done? so plug and play?
manual or auto
yes details please.
Its a 2006 accord euro Luxury.
MANUAL... (people on here who are into hondas and driving hard buy autos???)
i believe it is somewhat plug and play. i never got the full details, i kind of just said do it... i will find out tomorrow exactly what was done.
i got it done by ART - Auto racing teknic in West heidelberg. He is an absolute brain! good at what he does i believe. Well i should get the car back tomorrow ad will post up the results. im not aiming for a million kw, but an extra 15-20 would be idea. lol
let you know tomorrow if its worth doing!!!
Qbox? Isn't that a piggyback?
In that case wouldn't it be more cost efficient to get a Greddy eManage Ultimate or Haltech Platinum? Something that can be easily resold and tuned at other shops if you decide to upgrade?
Speaking of eManage, I remembered someone here is selling one for $700 odd with a tune in it.
so after getting my car back last night, i have been doing some thrashing.
i gained 9 front wheel kw in the high End range. vtec is where you feel this power. it kicks in hard and pulls hard. its fun as!
issue is im missing approx 7kw out of the car. my tuner was not happy.
he predicts its from my cat and headers. i reckon its from my cat and exhaust.
the car pulled 133.2kw ATW. the issue is at about 6800 rpm, the car spikes several times - it does not build any more power but just goes up and down up and down like 6 times.
so something is wrong somewhere. im going to start slowly by changing a few things.also possibly going to a single exhaust system... J's 60rs.
i believe a stock standard euro on his dyno pulls about 117 ATW.
now he believes it should be up near the 140 mark. maybe 138ish
i will first change my cat to a high flow cat. (dont ask me why previous owner didnt put one but whatever. was not my doing) i always buy stock cars and do it myself but this car was too clean to give up. lol
lets see how this goes.
has anyone used JTune products????
if so let me know!!!
how much did this cost all up?
What mods have you got?Quote:
Originally Posted by philipminge
At what RPM did the tuner set the VTEC engagement?
Your tuner is right (if your header is stock), it's unlikely the exhaust, accord euro catback is very free flowing. the choke point is header and cat.Quote:
he predicts its from my cat and headers. i reckon its from my cat and exhaust.
Sounds like the redlineQuote:
the car pulled 133.2kw ATW. the issue is at about 6800 rpm, the car spikes several times - it does not build any more power but just goes up and down up and down like 6 times.
Do exhaust last, it's not gonna make much difference.Quote:
so something is wrong somewhere. im going to start slowly by changing a few things.also possibly going to a single exhaust system... J's 60rs.
That depends on the dyno *shrugs*Quote:
i believe a stock standard euro on his dyno pulls about 117 ATW.
now he believes it should be up near the 140 mark. maybe 138ish
Intake Header Cat is the order people here usually do, then it's exhaust/IM/TB and VTCQuote:
i will first change my cat to a high flow cat. (dont ask me why previous owner didnt put one but whatever. was not my doing) i always buy stock cars and do it myself but this car was too clean to give up. lol
Few people here have it, really expansive for what you get.Quote:
has anyone used JTune products????
As a guide:
Intake: K&N typhoon makes most HP (Icebox 2nd, Injen 3rd)
Header: Weapon R header or PLM headers are the 2 most popular here.
Both race headers means you'll need at least 25' VTC, which happens to be the highest angle the stock VTC can go.
Also give this a read, should help
http://www.hondata.com/tuning_k24a2_tsx_engine.html
cost was 1300 and was most deff not worth that for 10kw.
Fredoops: thanks for your awesome feedback.
the 140kw mark i was talking about was on his dyno.
it spiked before redline. it was strange.
what is better: the weapon R or the PLM... and can you provide a link to the better one where i can purchase from???
also what high flow cat do people run??? and where can we buy from???
also please provide a link to the typhoon intake???
i just want to check this stuff out.
i dont know what header, cat, exhaust the car has.
some dooch bag put it all on. lol
Dude post the dyno readout and the graph, I reckon I know what they've done (or haven't done)Quote:
Originally Posted by philipminge
I reckon my $250 piggyback can produce similar power... lol
And take a photo of behind the engine, I can probably tell which header it is.
PLM and Weapon R headers come with a test pipe, so you just have to cut and weld a metal cat on (most exhaust shops have metal cats).
- They are both avail on eBay.
- I personally prefer Weapon R, because you dont have to modify the catback (with PLM you have to cut the catback to make a Cat fit)
K&N intake is avail on Amazon.com
- http://www.amazon.com/69-0025TP-Typh...ype=automotive
Lol not happy I must say.
I will post some pics soon. I also have to get the dyno graph.
So with the weapon r you must cut n weld flanges on....? I was just gonna buy a cat. Pm me ur email n I'll send u some pics
you really cant expect much when still on the 25 degree VTC gear. when i first installed my flashpro i used a hondata base map, it kept the VTC at 25 degrees, when i dyno'd the car it made 132kw and that was a pretty shitty tune, we adjusted the VTC to 45 degrees and the power bumped another 9kw to 141kw, then when the tune was complete it made 146kw.
who tunedQuote:
Originally Posted by Steve D
BYP did the tuning, i had also run the car on 2 other dyno's at the time after speculation of BYP being a little smart with the peak numbers, and it made 149kw on one and 144 on the other.
OK can someone explain this vtc shit to me for a cl9 euro.
What Im after ideally would be 145 kW. I'd be happy with that.
I believe the uni chip is capable to my understanding but how do I get there. I also don't want to damage the engine. Heard of some tuners running the car lean and squeezing results and the engines last 12months. Don't want that.
Anyway so who knows cl9's back the front? Who can run the car on a dyno and retune or alter the vtc gear etc.
P.s. I'm not asking for 160kw... Would be amazing but just want a bit more.
Byp.. Why r all the good companies in Sydney. Ats some bulls*** right there.
Melbourne has nothing.
Anyone know anyone in Melb that knows Hondas?
No, with plm you have to modify the stock catback, with weapon r you don't, since both produce very similar powers and weapon r is somewhat better made, I'd go with weapon r.
In relation to tuning. There's actually a few good places in melbourne that do Hondas
MSC and Revzone comes to mind, both fully registered and insured workshops.
When all else fails you can always get an etune, send your dump data overseas and get them to send you a tuning file to load.
And I'll be trying to do some hacking of the cl9's ecu soon myself, goig for a direct reflash of the memory chip on the ecu board, none of those piggyback or tricking the ecu (ala flashpro) nonsense.
As to VTC, it regulates the cam phasing, in turn it regulates how the engine breathe.
Post photos onto photobucket and link it here, I'll be interested to see he dyno graph
im getting the dyno graph hopefully this morning so i will post it up asap!. wont be long.
well?? why does this look so s***. lol
Well first of all, the tuner didnt move the VTC engagement point.Quote:
Originally Posted by philipminge
Most tuners would've lowered the VTEC engagement down to between 4500-5500 rpm depending on set up.
Did they tune anything other than AFR? whats the torque output look like?
he said if he lowers the vtec, there is a huge dip in power before the vtec kicks in.....
i just asked for the torque curve then! shouldnt be long
that doesnt sound right, at allQuote:
Originally Posted by philipminge
looky here;
http://www.hondata.com/reflash_tsx.html
http://www.hondata.com/images/dynots...vs-reflash.gif
this VTEC is lowered to 5000rpm, I dont see any dips, do you?
Oh and give this guide a read, it's for a Civic SI, which is also a K with the same Ivtec setup
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/honda...de-tuning.html
Oh and give this a read ( i know it's for a Civic with 50 degree VTC but the general principle applies non the less):
^^ this is precisely why it takes all day to tune a K-powered Honda properlyQuote:
Originally Posted by Hondata: A Guide to Tuning
mate im a wog right.... all that is like me trying to read chinese....
this is how a normal person looks at it.....
- take car to tuning shop
- get car back and it sucks
- ask people why and find someone to fix it.
lol all the info is mad... and im trying to understand it.... but my knowledge on tuning is VERY limited. ask me to fit coilovers or change engine mounts or any hardware... all good...
get me to tune a car.... no idea.
im trying to learn as much as i can.
i asked him to drop vtec and he said there is a major dip in power if he drops vtec.
going by your dyno charts... first of all mine look nothing like that! second, i dont understand why he did not adjust vtc timing and or why he didnt just drop vtec.
is he finding an easy way out and cant be f***** or is he just trying to keep it simple and stick to what he knows.
im assuming changing the VCT does not harm the engine.... so how does he not do it.
look at this stage my car is running I/H/E and a uni chip.... i thought i would get a tad more power.
what do you think can be done? and or who can i take it too that wont rip me another 1300. lol
pm evaqu8
he seems to know all the right people in melb
doubt hed check the accord forums out.
edit-- this guy http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/member.php?7774-IEVAQ8
You'll learn trust me.Quote:
Originally Posted by philipminge
Or option 3, he's limited by his hardware. Theres a reason unichip is not popular among Honda's, chances are his hands are tied over what engine functions he can touch.Quote:
is he finding an easy way out and cant be f***** or is he just trying to keep it simple and stick to what he knows.
See above, he might not able to change Cam advance, who knows.Quote:
im assuming changing the VCT does not harm the engine.... so how does he not do it.
Oh if you are taking abotu the VTC mechanism, thats a hardware you need to change.
Depends on IHE, but not lowering the Vtec engagement is a disappointmentQuote:
look at this stage my car is running I/H/E and a uni chip.... i thought i would get a tad more power.
First of all, decide on turning hardware, whether it be Unichip or Greddy or Haltech or Hondata, need to research and understand which engine functions each can control, because that impacts on what you can tune.Quote:
what do you think can be done? and or who can i take it too that wont rip me another 1300. lol
Sadly with Uni-chip you are pretty much locked in, since only selected places can tune uni-chips, it's not like Greddy or Haltech where a load of places can do them.
i just spent 1300 im not gonna throw the uni chip out. lol
well if i want to keep the uni chip - i dont have much of a choice but to deal with it really...?
fk. lucky with my s2k i did my own research and didnt rely on tuners to tell me.
do you know why the dyno chart jumps at vtec engagement?
and what do i buy to be able to change the vtc. and who can change it?
if i have to change the computer again its not worth it i think. rather spend the money on my s2k. lol
just sucks balls really. i mean the euro goes alright, but it does need more. just that bit more. (so shattered)
VTEC KICKED IN YO.Quote:
do you know why the dyno chart jumps at vtec engagement?
lol, it's the high cam been switched so engine breathe differently
you need to get the stock VTC actuator (25 degree( and take it to a machinist and machine it to 45 degree by grinding parts off.Quote:
and what do i buy to be able to change the vtc. and who can change it?
so your saying its normal for that to happen?
why dont i see that on other graphs?
It's normal for that to happen on a factory tune for the cl9Quote:
Originally Posted by philipminge
the other graph doesn't have it because it's tuned to maximise gains all across the rev range, hence the much smoother curve.
once again, it's down to the tune, which can be night and day in terms of differences.
Just found out my exhaust is a tanabe medallion exhaust. Thought these were quite good?
Tanabe Medallion depends which spec man... But in general they're good ;)
Yes, very well madeQuote:
Originally Posted by philipminge
As I said, catback don't make much difference.
I already had to weld a broken exhaust hanger. Lol. I'm trying to find a cl7 intake manifold. Lol need more power!!!!
It's probably getting on in age...
You mean a RBC manifold for the K20 (ala DC5 Integra type r)Quote:
Originally Posted by philipminge
you do realise you're gonna lose torque with that right?
So I spoke with a Honda tuner today. He says: type r intake manifold (because they flow the best) heavier valve springs, good air intake and a hondata... Says potentially push 160kw... That's what I'm after!!!!
Lol
Input welcome!!!
Type R intake manifold. Does he mean DC5, FD2 or FN2?
The DC5 manifold (PRB) is not the best. The RBC (found on Euro R) is a cheap upgrade that will net decent gains. Next step up would be the RRC (found on FD2R) that will loose a bit more torque but gain a bit more up top, but cost more again. Then you have the RSP (found on FN2R) that is a combination of both (but harder to come by).
You still haven't answered what headers you have tho, so it would help if you let us know what is fitted.
If you want an RBC/RRC & J35 throttle body I can do them for good prices either supply only or supply & fitted
Edit: valve springs will not be needed unless you are upgrading camshafts. Also I would look into a 50 degree VTC for better camshaft tuning
OK I have never been happier. I put my camera phone down the back where the headers are and I snapped a photo. Had a look at the photo and what to I see: TODA POWER - FOR OFFROAD USE ONLY.
hahaha score!!!!!!!!!
So my tuner was blaming the headers. They r toda.
Maybe rbc manifold. Can u do a price on that with new throttle body?? Installed?
You probably have to get rid of the piggypack, looks like the piggy is limited in it's functions (or your tuner really suck)Quote:
Originally Posted by philipminge
PM sent
I'm told my tuner today I want it removed. So it will be out next week and goodbye. I want 160kw now.
Lol I'm trying to build my s2k but for every day driver I want more power. This is the reason for my questions. Thanks to all the boys helpin me out. Champions!
All input welcome.
Quote:
Originally Posted by philipminge
If you're an everyday then i'd say mid range is more important than top end power.
And whom ever tunes the car will need to tune part throttle.
Is the RBC intake manifold from a cl7?
Also what is the difference between stock and j35 throttle body strndrd???
Here this should help youQuote:
Originally Posted by philipminge
http://www.superstreetonline.com/tec...t/viewall.html
J35 Throttlebody is out of a honda V6 (J35 = J-series 3.5 liter V6), it's bigger in diameter (ie: more air goes in)Quote:
Also what is the difference between stock and j35 throttle body strndrd???
Yes the RBC is from CL7 Euro R. The J35 throttle body has a bigger internal diameter than the factory K24 throttle body and still retains drive by wire
And if I tune with hondata is it worth going heavier valve springs.... And also what do I do with this vtc valve gear?
Quote:
Originally Posted by philipminge
Your tuner isn't very bright by the sounds of it... What tuner doesn't check out fully a car first before starts working on it?Quote:
Originally Posted by philipminge
You want 160kW out of the K24A you mean?Quote:
Originally Posted by philipminge
For daily you're focusing far too much on peak performance... If you want to get a hustle on in the daily grind ie Mojo <5000rpm, like Fredoops said, Mid-Range is what you're focusing on. You want better mid range? Work with a Tuner that isn't an idiot for one and that understands how to get even more torque. My personal tuner was able to add a whole ton of 'balls' to my 1.6L while peak power did increase a little.
Stop for a moment and plan out what you're really after first then start talking mods man.Quote:
Originally Posted by philipminge
You've already been stung hard...
OK well I spoke to the tuner. I'm Getting my money back.
I'm just talkin s*** lol not looking for only peak power. ...
I want drivability and torque. Just want a good all rounder.
Has cold air intake. I H E.
Been doing some research and I'm looking at RBC intake and throttle body. Them have the car tuned with a Hondata. I'll do a bit more research and see.
All input welcome.
@OP: Flashpro, kpro or reflash?
Btw, Fredoops, have you decided on getting a choone? I just remembered some of your posts on older threads about Hondata tuning. What route would you take if you had to get a choone right now?
Quote:
Originally Posted by axispower
I'm going the DIY route.
What is the DIY route?Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
Hacking.Quote:
Originally Posted by axispower
fredoops ganna tune himself
if you do enough reading its more then possible to the average car savvy bloke i reckon.
if you have the patients to learn
axispower: i dont know what hondata yet. what do people recommend?
tomorrow im having the uni chip removed. was a major disappointment. everyone talking about lowering their vtec and cars drastically improving in the torque range... mine did not at all.
so the car currently has:
Header: toda
Cat: Unknown
Exhaust: Tanabe medallion duel
Intake: k&n intake... (its short and sits behind the battery)
Parts to come soon
rbc intake manifold
J35 throttle body
also does anyone thing i should put heavier valve springs before i tune??
is it worth putting a set of BC cams??? lol
and what hondata?
Cat: get a jack and find what cat you are running.
Intake: get a cold air intake, not short ram.
Valve spring: No
Bc cams: No.
Hondata: Flashpro with acura tsx ecu, allow $2 grand including tuning and immo reset.
I work in IT so I'm not gonna let a ****ing computer chip stop me.Quote:
Originally Posted by u mad?
Why not do cams and valve springs with a tune?Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
Cams and valve springs will add another $2.2k +Quote:
Originally Posted by axispower
dont see why u wouldnt do it before tune, easy 10+kw atwQuote:
Originally Posted by stndrd
dpends how hectic he want his accord to be.
OK car has toda headers... Don't think I'll be changing them.
BC cams allow 700 and springs about 300. Where did the 2k come from. I would install myself.
Changing pulleys... Please expand on that.
Yeah I will do cold air.. But do I have to relocate my battery? OK well the works are going to start.
Any input is welcome. Appreciate all ur comments. Its awesome.
Just tempting to do cams... Just a stage 1 or maybee 2.
light weight pulleys works like light weight flywheel, adds to responseQuote:
Changing pulleys... Please expand on that.
dont have to relocate battery for CAIQuote:
Yeah I will do cold air.. But do I have to relocate my battery? OK well the works are going to start.
This Uni-chip is big crap, no options to manage VTC. Best option today is Honda FlashPro - can tune even remotely on the road, no need for real Dyno. Support Accord CL9 (need to change ECU from TSX 07-08, same as for TSX 04-06 owners http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...-ECU-required.) and some CU2 (for CU2 no need to change ECU http://www.hondata.com/flashpro_intaccord.html)
Hondata is "good" but far far from the best. The best thing about the pro is that its plug and play, everything ekse is average as phunk.
wow this is too much for my little brain.
ok so ill stick with the rbc intake manifold and throttle body.
then hopefully sell everything else i own to go tsx 07-08 ecu with flash pro.
what vtc gear should be used?
so my car will remain reliable and wont blow itself to the shit when i do long trips. as this baby is a daily... its healthy as and i try keep it that way. its got 165xxx kms... im hoping it wont die. :(
so after all that maybe i should feel the torque i am after.
might leave cams out. cbf
yeah but for another 2 grand? no thanks jeff. To think getting a choone for approx 2 grand which gives how many kw approx? isnt enough...Quote:
Originally Posted by u mad?
hey guys is this the typhoon intake people recommend?
this will fit right?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/K-N-KN-69...item48573b9dff
also anyone with a K&N typhoon CAI can they take a quick pic and post it. just want to see how it sits.
thanks in advance.
thats it. bit expensive though
Oh... Where else can I buy it from cheaper. Anyone know?
Just finding it hard to find a pic of one installed... Where does all that pipe go? Lol
Heeltoe.com does it cheaper I'm pretty sure. Thats where I got mine from but have a look at their site I cant remember the price off the top of my head.
Thats what it looks and sounds like. Disregard the retarded American phaggot filming it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0HDsylgQDRE
oh wow. thanks for that... lol a bloody video. champion.
looks pretty good.
If your planning on getting the RBC I'm not sure if the K&N typoon will bolt up to the RBC manifold.Quote:
Originally Posted by philipminge
As you can see here in this picture below the K&N Typhoon CAI outlet is angled downwards to be a straight bolt-on with the stock RBB manifold. If you compare the inlet positioning of the two manifolds it looks like the K&N CAI wont be a straight bolt-on to the RBC.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a37...f/IMGP0559.jpg
http://i989.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/66a7a8c8.jpg
hmmmm interesting. cheers for that. another thing to work out.
thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by axispower
Amazon is the cheapest if you consider shipping.
Heeltoe shipping charges are a joke most of the time
^yeah ive noticed that.
Valve springs unnecessary unless you're going to raise you're redline [Necessary to bring out the full potential of cams beyond the least aggressive ones] or operating @ high rpm majority of the time [Racing conditions].Quote:
Originally Posted by philipminge
So which cams? Are you ready to sacrifice and shift your power/torque band some/lots? NA tuning peak power and torque increases usually comes at a price [Much larger than Force Induction]. If you keep the same displacement, dropping in aggressive cams will yield you better peak performance but you sacrifice low-mid range, you usually have to raise the redline for cams beyond the mild ones thus more stress on your engine and that's when parts need to start changing eg valvetrain and depending on your bottom end design, conrods usually have to change too. Idle becomes a factor too as the idle needs to be raised to compensate, lumpy idle isn't all its cracked up to be if you've not experienced a full worked engine especially with ITBs [Honda orientation usually away from driver... My Toyota was aimed square at me... Loud is an understatement]...
The argument then is are mild cams worth it? For the majority of people [The ones that are power hungry and aren't satisfied easily] the answer is no, after all the work you put in, the gains [Usually they read off only peak which isn't the best way to read the improvement of mild cams] aren't substantial enough to feel therefore disappointed they didn't go "bigger". Mild cams in general are there to improve the overall car restricting the engine from the factory cam's limitations. Peak gains aren't its focus.
dreadangel thanks for that. makes sense perfectly.
well the rbc intake manifold has a different angle output that the stock cl9 one. so im not going to have to wait untill the intake manifold and throttle body go on. after that ill have to look at purchasing an intake to suit.
once all this is done the flash pro with the tsx ecu sounds good.
the only thing im questioning is it was stated earlier, the ecu needs to be suited to the cars immobilizer.
on so say i purchase the ecu and hondata (and the adapter cable) once i unplug the stock ecu and the plug in the new one, am i able to start the car and drive to a honda dealer? lol this is a dumb question, but as i said i have no experience with ecu's etc.
If the car does not start, what am i meant to do?
and imo - honda are absolute clown shoes - what do i say to make them understand what i need them to do...
thanks again guys.