K24 Bottom end rebuild need opinions

I have a complete k20a JDM engine with a knocking bottom end.

I also have a k24a3 block that has bad compression.

What I had planned in mind was to get new pistons and rods for the bottom end and slap the the k20a head.

I am trying to gather information and noticed people on k20a.org are suggesting to run either supertech, wiseco but recommends mahle Pistons.
With 12.5:1 compression 88mm.
Either oem or Cunningham rods.

Would like to know what are your thoughts and what are you guys out there are running?

Cheers guys!

My 2 cents -

Service head and block, get the crank checked etc etc.

Supertech head combo wombo
Good piston and rod combo - stock compression forged of course
ARP head studs
toda chain tensioner
renew the rest with oem.
K20 oil pump

Rest the money i'd spend on turbo, fuel needs , manifolds, cooling and braking in time.

But I've feeling your gonna make mistake and stay NA

In dat case Imma ask you wat cams you gonna run for compression dat high? Is this your daily? Is reliability going to be an issue? Have you budgeted an ecu?

Have you spoken to a shop dat builds Honda engines?

I would start there 1st buddy. if you gonna overbore the block and go 12:5:1 your talking about sick NA build which will cost you thru the arse for shit output compared to turbo counterpart, specially if not done properly.

You better speaks to the pro's cos this may end up costing you alot.

You could PM traders here JDMyard, Sleeping Performance. Both had been very helpful when I wanted to build my kseries.

Nah not yet.
If it's thru the arse then I'll should just make it basic.
Just slap the head on with another bottom end.

no rebuild the broken k24 you have. Do it properly.

Just speak to builders and they will let you know far your budget can carry.

I would do pistons atleast if you were opening the block.

I think the oem cu2 pistons will work offering good compression at oem quality.

get 4 piston racing to build you a motor, get it shipped over, get Adrian at sas to tune it


and enjoy your 300+ naturally aspirated horseies on 98

hehe

oh and do yourself a massive favor- don't listen to amant, he is the village idiot.

Stock comp on a 'built' NA motor?
Stock rods as well?



A cheaper alternative would be to just find another k24, stick your current k20a head on and retune
Or find another k24 and get a 163 with appropriate cams/ valvetrain and tune on e85, amazing how much the americans are makeing with seemingly simple setups.

Talk to the pros and read up on k20a.org

Just remember, the boltons to make it all work together will set you back a good chunk as well, don't just budget for the motor itself.

adrian no long at SAS

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Originally Posted by lilthug

adrian no long at SAS

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oh true? Where is wizard now?

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Originally Posted by u mad?

oh true? Where is wizard now?

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secret wizard lair

Stock rods, TSX pistons, Supertech valves k20 head. $$$ add up quickly and then a decent cam

Stock k24 and turbo is cheaper lol

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Originally Posted by u mad?

get 4 piston racing to build you a motor, get it shipped over, get Adrian at sas to tune it


and enjoy your 300+ naturally aspirated horseies on 98

hehe

oh and do yourself a massive favor- don't listen to amant, he is the village idiot.

Stock comp on a 'built' NA motor?
Stock rods as well?



A cheaper alternative would be to just find another k24, stick your current k20a head on and retune
Or find another k24 and get a 163 with appropriate cams/ valvetrain and tune on e85, amazing how much the americans are makeing with seemingly simple setups.

Talk to the pros and read up on k20a.org

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I have a feeling you haven't attempted to build.

Please dont call me the village idiot, when your post make no sense.

The cost of making 300+ kfrank?

The weakness isn't in the rods, its the rod bolt that will hit its limit 1st on the k24. There a heaps more things that will go wrong before your stock rod shits itself.

And your cheaper alternative, is the more expensive way. DO NOT BUY ANOTHER K24 & JUST SLAP IT ON. It will slap you in the face when you bounce of the limiter.

Reason for stock comp k24a3 - Boost. Same as E85 explanation.

Reason for stock CU2 Piston - Do you even know its compression? TSX would be even better. CU2 will be more readily available in aus.

Also E85 is not worth it unless you have gone all out NA and still requiring more. Cost for performance gained is minimal. Boost is where you really see the benefit. You can run more boost before hitting the detonation threshold.

He already has 2 engines. Just rebuild to basic specs to best you can afford. Speak to an engine builder. He will clear the questions you have, can be done for under 5k if things go your way. Maybe remove/install and disassemble motor yourself. Get a shop to do all machining balancing and assembling.

I would be buying majority of the parts from overseas to save on cost. Aussie Vendors sometimes want too much.

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Originally Posted by Stevil

Stock rods, TSX pistons, Supertech valves k20 head. $$$ add up quickly and then a decent cam

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Originally Posted by Stevil

Stock k24 and turbo is cheaper lol

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Thank you.

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Originally Posted by amant02

Reason for stock comp k24a3 - Boost. Same as E85 explanation.

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uwotm8? thats 10.5:1 with a stock head.

if you're adding bost why does it matter which block you use, OP's got a k20 head.

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Reason for stock CU2 Piston - Do you even know its compression? TSX would be even better. CU2 will be more readily available in aus.

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uwotm8?

Whats this unicorn fart TSX piston you're talking about? Cu2 pistons?

CU2? thats 11:1 before you slap a K20 head on or resurface the head, that's good for boost how?
Attachment 28705

why in the world would you take a motor already with comp > 10:1, then ADD compression, and then add boost?

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Also E85 is not worth it unless you have gone all out NA and still requiring more. Cost for performance gained is minimal. Boost is where you really see the benefit. You can run more boost before hitting the detonation threshold.

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uwotm8?

if you got Boost and got new injectors why wouldnt you look at E85?

Attachment 28705

LOL thanks for proving my point amant


http://scottsauls.com/wp-content/upl.../06/1-Down.jpg

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Originally Posted by Fredoops

uwotm8? thats 10.5:1 with a stock head.

if you're adding bost why does it matter which block you use, OP's got a k20 head.

Wut? okay. This makes no sense.


uwotm8?

Whats this unicorn fart TSX piston you're talking about? Cu2 pistons?

CU2? thats 11:1 before you slap a K20 head on or resurface the head, that's good for boost how?

Das not for boost no shit.



why in the world would you take a motor already with comp > 10:1, then ADD compression, and then add boost?

This has been my point for stock comp



uwotm8?

if you got Boost and got new injectors why wouldnt you look at E85?

Another reason why E85 would be the last thing you do to a NA Motor

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Are you still burt hurt from me telling you that a $2000 reflash was a rip off?

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Originally Posted by amant02

I have a feeling you haven't attempted to build.

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No offense, but to be fair you haven't built any engines either as far as we've seen lol

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Originally Posted by amant02

Are you still burt hurt from me telling you that a $2000 reflash was a rip off?

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Where's this 2000 dollar reflash? You mean flashpro?

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Wut? okay. This makes no sense.

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Op's already got a k20a head. Did you not read?


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/pr...c=w300-h202-nc

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Originally Posted by Super-DA9

No offense, but to be fair you haven't built any engines either as far as we've seen lol

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I know, but I has attempted. Gave up on high comp K series build when I was given quotes on parts and prices.

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Originally Posted by Fredoops

Where's this 2000 dollar reflash? You mean flashpro?


Op's already got a k20a head. Did you not read?

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Are okay mate? You said dosnt matter which block he chooses.

Why wouldn't this matter. Dsnt matter na or boost. The 2.4L block matters.

I think your being the potato.

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Originally Posted by Fredoops

OP's got a k20 head.

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Amant got prawn head

It was cheaper for me to buy my rexie than to do a fully sick k24 NA build on my dc5r

Also if you guys wanna argue high comp isnt for boost. Contradicting myself. OP wont have the funds of a manufacture to RND.

have you seen any of the new engines coming out.

Nearly all are high comp turbo from factory. Twin scroll ofcourse.

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Originally Posted by amant02

I know, but I has attempted. Gave up on high comp K series build when I was given quotes on parts and prices.

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Thinking about doing something and immediately giving up doesn't really meet the definition of 'attempting' as I understand it lol

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Originally Posted by Super-DA9

Thinking about doing something and immediately giving up doesn't really meet the definition of 'attempting' as I understand it lol

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Way i see it. Lucky I didn't go thru wit it. Would've been very disappoint after. Waste of cash. Turbo is the way to go.

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Originally Posted by amant02

Way i see it. Lucky I didn't go thru wit it. Would've been very disappoint after. Waste of cash. Turbo is the way to go.

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Fair enough. If u can't build it, buy it I guess. Wasn't what I was talking about though.

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Originally Posted by Super-DA9

Fair enough. If u can't build it, buy it I guess. Wasn't what I was talking about though.

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Ya i know your refering to me as I have not built an engine.

Way I see it atm. I have not provided any invalid information.

2 potatoes on this tread.

One recommending to slap 2 used block and head together without proper inspections, machining or balancing.

Other potato thinks the head which makes the power in a combustion engine.

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Originally Posted by amant02

Ya i know your refering to me as I have not built an engine.

Way I see it atm. I have not provided any invalid information.

2 potatoes on this tread.

One recommending to slap 2 used block and head together without proper inspections, machining or balancing.

Other potato thinks the head which makes the power in a combustion engine.

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Lol unless I missed something he didn't say 'don't inspect, machine or balance'. Unless your a potato those things generally go without saying when you're talking about rebuilding

And the head is an important part in generating power, it is half of the engine after all lmao....

Yea he did "slap on another USED k24" something along them lines. So his implying.

ofcourse the head is important. It wat makes honda, honda.

He said it dosn't matter which block op chooses, his got k20 head. something along them lines.

It matters. There is no replacement for displacement.

Also the actual force that drives the engine happens in the combustion chamber.

Last time I checked they were in the head no?

amant, seriously you are embarrassing yourself, but please, keep going, keeping me loling at work, day goes faster with amant around

Quote:

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Originally Posted by amant02

Yea he did "slap on another USED k24" something along them lines. So his implying.

ofcourse the head is important. It wat makes honda, honda.

He said it dosn't matter which block op chooses, his got k20 head. something along them lines.

It matters. There is no replacement for displacement.

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Omg lol

Amunt pls. Reading too far into the comments man. Needa chill a bit.

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Originally Posted by amant02

Also the actual force that drives the engine happens in the combustion chamber.

Last time I checked they were in the head no?

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Literally no one is implying otherwise lmao

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Originally Posted by u mad?

amant, seriously you are embarrassing yourself, but please, keep going, keeping me loling at work, day goes faster with amant around

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lmzo same here hwhwhw

Quote:

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Originally Posted by u mad?

amant, seriously you are embarrassing yourself, but please, keep going, keeping me loling at work, day goes faster with amant around

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How is it embrassing for me?

Your the one who got caught talking shit.


One dsnt simply got out a buy another working block to rebuild when he has one spare to rebuild.


Dw its okay.

I get whats going on.

One of the spam boys got caught out, call the boyz.

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Originally Posted by amant02

How is it embrassing for me?

Your the one who got caught talking shit.


One dsnt simply got out a buy another working block to rebuild when he has one spare to rebuild.


Dw its okay.

I get whats going on.

One of the spam boys got caught out, call the boyz.

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I still don't see anything wrong about what he said lol. It's perfectly reasonable for someone to buy another good condition bottom end if they decide rebuilding the shagged one is too much trouble.

If you're talking about me, I wasn't called here, in fact I'd hardly call 2 of us 'the boyz' lol. I just disagree with you, so I'm stating just that.

Since jrod called you the village idiot you've certainly piped up tho lmzo. I'd say if there's any beef here that's where it is hwhw

Hey guys
Thanks for all the input and great thoughts.
I broke down the head and took it off the block.

I am keeping it NA.
I dnt want to use the k20 block. All I want is basic setup and getting it done as cheap as possible.
I think I would go source a k24 bottom end that and put the head on, after getting it machined.
It will be easier and faster.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by amant02

How is it embrassing for me?

Your the one who got caught talking shit.


One dsnt simply got out a buy another working block to rebuild when he has one spare to rebuild.


Dw its okay.

I get whats going on.

One of the spam boys got caught out, call the boyz.

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how did i get 'caught out' again? Come on man i, thought you quit doing drugs, looks like you relapsed, I am sorry to see this

best wishes,

Sean

HAHA caught you out oxer u cheeky fuk

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Originally Posted by davidvtec

Hey guys
Thanks for all the input and great thoughts.
I broke down the head and took it off the block.

I am keeping it NA.

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Basically you're looking at a way to do a cheap k-frank

If you want to source new piston and rods it really doesn't matter which k24 block you use, since no audm k24 block has them oil squirters. They're the same 2.4 block once you gut them.

Low cost Pistons with good quality can be brought from Nippon racing (who are Nippon piston ring co). They're from Japan that's an oem Honda supplier. And you can get a set of 12 ish plus comp Pistons (with resurfaced k20 head) for less than 300. And you'll want a set of At least rdx injectors if nothing as an insurance policy.

The problem with using CU2 Pistons on a old Kfrank (ie "A" series K motors, as opposed to Z and Y)is that you're in risk of running clearance issues. Especially at high rpm. There's plenty of report/details on k20a.org of that situation. Especially when you run high vtc with a shaved head and block, or high rpm. I know you'll need to clay it regardless but running cu2 piston don't expect all good news.

Post GFC (after 2009) Honda gone into a cost cutting rage. Hence some of the shitty castings you get. It shows.

Amant best in market atm

Anyone have any info on where Adrian has moved to? (ie if he has moved from SAS)

tekno

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Originally Posted by 00dc2

Anyone have any info on where Adrian has moved to? (ie if he has moved from SAS)

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Pm amant02

He is the new owner of sas and employs Adrian