DIY PGMFI Fuel Filter Change

DIY PGMFI Fuel Filter Change
Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk.



Aim: change da fuel filter

Required: most cases, 10mm socket, wratchet, 14mm spanner, 17mm spanner, screw driver, new filter. a car to change filter on.



http://ecu-man.com/diy/BB6fuel-filte...filter-012.jpg


the filter shown above is a non genuine, you can tell as they use copper washers.


Steps: 1

to start off, open your fuel filler door, and undo the fuel cap to relive the pressure in the fuel tank.


http://ecu-man.com/diy/BB6fuel-filte...filter-013.jpg


STEP: 2

get your 14mm spanner ( pipe spanners are better ) crack the 14mm nut Slowly ( as some fuel may squirt out from pressure left built up in the rail ) and unscrew the fuel line from the filter.


http://ecu-man.com/diy/BB6fuel-filte...filter-014.jpg




STEP: 3

get your 17mm ring spanner and a big screw driver, place yor screw driver as shown in the pic bellow, this will help stop the filter from moving as you apply pressure on the 17mm bolt as you crack it. take off the 17mm bolt.


http://ecu-man.com/diy/BB6fuel-filte...filter-017.jpg



STEP: 4


follow the lines back and loosen them from there mounts off the firewall. you need them to move out the way as you try to lift the filter out the way.


http://ecu-man.com/diy/BB6fuel-filte...filter-016.jpg




STEP: 5


undo the two 10mm bolts that hold the fuel filter in place, see green arrows below.




http://ecu-man.com/diy/BB6fuel-filte...filter-018.jpg




STEP: 6

Now the fun begins, move the filter around, back and forth, and get it out. On a 95 lude with ABS this is a bit challenging, remove the filter from the car. Carefull as it will be full of fuel. Empty the fuel somewhere safe before disposing of your old fuel filter.




http://ecu-man.com/diy/BB6fuel-filte...filter-019.jpg


STEP: 7


remove the old filter from its bracket. undo the two 10mm bolts shown in the green arrows.



http://ecu-man.com/diy/BB6fuel-filte...filter-020.jpg



STEP: 8


place the new filter on the bracket, ensure you line up the groove shown by the red arrows on the bracket and the filter. Do up the two 10mm bolts you previously removed.


http://ecu-man.com/diy/BB6fuel-filte...filter-021.jpg
http://ecu-man.com/diy/BB6fuel-filte...filter-022.jpg


http://ecu-man.com/diy/BB6fuel-filte...filter-023.jpg


make sure you lined up the filter in the bracket OK




STEP: 9


refit the filter in revers from how you removed it. To help, put the fuel line in the filter that has the 14mm nut in before you mount the filter to the car, hand tighten the 14mm nut into the fuel filter THEN bolt the filter to the car body.

then put in the 17mm bolt in the other line, make sure you replace the aluminum crush washers, see pic below.

http://ecu-man.com/diy/BB6fuel-filte...filter-030.jpg


STEP: 10

now its time to tighten the 14mm nut, do not over tighten it, but make sure its tight enough not to leak, also tighten the 17mm bolt the same way. refit any mounts you undid.




Prime the fuel pump 3 or 4 times and check the fuel filter for any signs of leaks. if ok, start the car and again check for leaks. If there are no leaks your done, you have done well. If you are getting fuel leaks, DO NOT RUN THE CAR until you fixed them.



BB6 Prelude filters are more challenging than the Civic and Integras but not so bad, if you have a CD5 accord, I hope the last person who changed it dint do it up super tight. 1st time round from the factory there where done up a bit to tight and you would have alot of fun undoing them.

the concept of this DIY is the same throu out the Honda range, you might have to remove the cruise control actuator on some cars, just use common sence and you will be ok.


please dont smoke while chaning your fuel filter :)



Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk.
__________________

you don't want more PQ points do you john? :p

nah,

its all for the members Wyn

ahh thats is why we relive the pressure from the tank 1st :)


but your right Ill Add it as it could be a bit of a surprise..

cheers for that

anyone want to change my fuel filter? its been to 2 mechanics to get changed but they cant get it off! Not much room in the engine bay!

lol

CD5 plus H22A

good combination, bring it to SA ill do it for ya :)

thanks for the offer :) I wish i was closer to s.a.

hmmz, ecu-man i think u need to change mine (whenever i have spare time :S, oh and also my cv boot or more.)

hi, any suggestions on how to get that 17mm nut off? coz the one on my car is real tite!!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by E-Honda

hi, any suggestions on how to get that 17mm nut off? coz the one on my car is real tite!!!

---

u cant get it off? damn try a breaker bar man, should be THAT tight.

if you have a genuine filter you can put a 19mm spanner under the pipe


between the red lines in bellow pic, or use the screw driver as shown in the pic in the DIY


http://ecu-man.com/diy/bb6fuel-filte...er-031-med.JPG

nice write-up once again John :D
I looked at my carby EG one just before and the lines just seem to be connected to the filter with hose clamps. Looks alot easier than the EFi version. I'm going to disconnect the lines and drain the fuel tank later on (need to find some jerry cans).

At trade school they drummed it into us to relieve the fuel pressure by removing the fuel pump relay and cranking the car until it dies. This relieves the pressure. If this is not possible, then disconnect the fuel pump by pulling the plug out of it (accessed either via the boot or under the rear seat. Rear seat in EG) then crank it until the car cuts out. I think this is probably just being anal though and they have to teach us the correct methods. One of the teachers said to just put a rag over the fittings when disconnecting a line and maybe wear some safety glasses and you should be fine.

i pulled the fuel tank out recently and just undid the fuel cap(lol at demo photo of fuel cap removal method),was no pressure left in the lines whatsoever,just a few gravity dribbles.

another nice write up by DIY-MAN.

thanks guys.

as you say Paul. its a very important part, taking the cap of is good enough and does the job well. what they are trying to teach you is to get he fuel out of the lines as well.

makes no diff for a fuel filter change.

but yes the photo is a bit of a no brainer but very important :)

how often should i change my fuel filter ???

Paul: Your carby engine will only have hose clamps because theres much less pressure in a carby fuel system then an electronic fuel system. I think caryb is about 15 psi and then EFI is about 90 or somethin.

Can someone confirm this for me?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AsH_

how often should i change my fuel filter ???

---

every 40K

mmmmz... i might change mine...

DIY with lots of pics!! Ho0o0raH!

what kind of fuel filter should i get? does it really matter in quality?

went to repco the other day and they got "Repco" fuel filter for 35-40bux?, and another brand.. it think it was ryco or something for like 60 bux.

thx.

OEM man.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mocchi

DIY with lots of pics!! Ho0o0raH!

what kind of fuel filter should i get? does it really matter in quality?

went to repco the other day and they got "Repco" fuel filter for 35-40bux?, and another brand.. it think it was ryco or something for like 60 bux.

thx.

---

you'll pay the same price for OEM.
lol

nothing fit honda like honda

motherf.! the frikin bolt is so tight.. cant budge it at all... GAHHHH

bought the genuine honda filter ('95 gli) for 49 bux now cant even take the old one out...

*spent 1 hours and 27 mins trying to undo the bolt (the bottom one)

should i just like put everything back and do it at a mechanic? omg.. backache

thx.

The bottom bolt?? The sump bolt you mean??

What are you trying to undo it with??

9/16 spanner

Get a rachet with the proper sized socket on the end of it. I blieve its around about 14 mm. (metric baby!)

i can never remember the actual size lol.

*sry i was referring to nut when i said bolt... duh!*

ill give up for this DIY for now....
the bottom nut is just too tight for my skinny ass.

thx tho ECU-MAN.

Just realised my info was sooo wrong it wasn't funny.

For some reason i was talkin about an oil change.

Damn, i fcuked up bad. lol Sorry guys.

been a long day.

LEAKAGE! im GG..

ran a test b4 after putting everything back and revd it abit... and when i checked the filter.. petrol was leaking.

just tightened the nut n bolt will do?

thx.

should do.

Wheres it leaking from??

from the top bolt of the fuel filter... i tightened it up some more before and gonna check if it still leaks again tomorrow.
its getting dark n cold, lazy lol.

sounds like you got a 95 accord

they are an absolute bitch sometimes

yes if it was leaking just need to nip it up

you need to put the 14mm spanner pref 14mm pipe spanner ( not 9/16 ) on the nut and a 17mm spanner on the filter and squezze them together to crack the nut. this way you wont rip the skin off your knuckles.

only use the corect tools because if you round off that tight 14mm nut then you will be in mo trouble.

so a 17mm on the filter and 14mm on the nut eh? hmm...
that means turn the 17mm to the right and the 14mm to the left or vice versa?



thx.

please don't use cheap spanners that you buy for $1.50.
lol
they tend to **** things more than fix em.
lol.

you dont turn the 17mm spanner, just holds the filter firm and gives you leverage on the 14mm spanner with out damaging anything.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mocchi

motherf.! the frikin bolt is so tight.. cant budge it at all... GAHHHH

bought the genuine honda filter ('95 gli) for 49 bux now cant even take the old one out...

*spent 1 hours and 27 mins trying to undo the bolt (the bottom one)

should i just like put everything back and do it at a mechanic? omg.. backache

thx.

---

Take 2 spanners, place one on the filter side and the other on the nut on the fuel line. Arrange them so that they form a squeezable angle. With your left hand, hold the heads of the spanner in place so they don't fall off the nut and filter. With your right hand in a leather gardening glove, squeeze as hard as you can. Don't worry, you will be able to get it loose. I'm a thin guy, and by squeezing I managed to get it off, while twisting the metal on the nut!

make sure your turning it the correct way,

anti clockwise to undo

^^ that too. :)

... how do you prime the fuel pump?
or wat ever it was in the 1st post before you start the car

turn the igniton on to pos II, then off and on again a few times

Quote:

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Originally Posted by aaronng

Take 2 spanners, place one on the filter side and the other on the nut on the fuel line. Arrange them so that they form a squeezable angle. With your left hand, hold the heads of the spanner in place so they don't fall off the nut and filter. With your right hand in a leather gardening glove, squeeze as hard as you can. Don't worry, you will be able to get it loose. I'm a thin guy, and by squeezing I managed to get it off, while twisting the metal on the nut!

---

oh really.. dang. its kinda hard because i didnt have good angle to turn it. not sure anymore.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ECU-MAN

turn the igniton on to pos II, then off and on again a few times

---

for the noobs, posII is when all the dash lights come to life right before you kick over the motor.

hey ECU-MAN do you like have a mechanic shop here in SA or do you do everything at home. If like people payed you would you do an engine swap for them cos i wanna buy a new engine soon.

Ill PM you dude