DIY PGMFI Diagnostics - Code 0 ECU

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19-05-2007, 01:09 AM
ECU-MAN

DIY PGMFI Diagnostics - Code 0 ECU

Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!

Aim:

Diagnose code 0, ECU, the ECU "Electronic Control Unit" is also known as ECM "Electronic Control Module"

http://b16a2.kicks-ass.net/diy/pgmfi...mfi-code-0.gif

Required:

- 10mm 3/8 socket
- 3/8 extension bat
- 3/8 ratchet
- Philips head screwdriver
- another identical ECU

So when you start your car, Your engine light "MIL" comes on and stays on. You do the PGMFI test and you get a solid CEL. Chances are its the ECU at fault. Very rare but possible for a stock ECU, more common if you have been tinkering with ROM's ect.

Symptoms

- Engine light on all the time and the bellow symptoms
- Engine will not start.
- Engine starts but only revs to 3000 or 4000 rpm
- Engine idles higher when warm
- car runs like crap

STEP 1

Locate your ECU and remove it from the car. Your ECU could be located in a number of many possible locations. Commonly on the passengers side foot well kick panel or floor well, pull the carpet back and have a look.

http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/ecu/PGMFI-ECU-005.jpg.. http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/ecu/PGMFI-ECU-009.jpg

- on the floor well it will have a big metal plate covering the ECU, undo the 4 nuts holding it down with a 10mm socket ( yellow arrows ) undo any cable ties connecting to the ECU ( red arrows )

- now unplug the ECU connectors ( right yellow arrow in bellow picture ) and unplug the AT ECU if applicable ( left yellow arrows ).

http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/ecu/PGMFI-ECU-010.jpg

STEP 2

Use a Philips head screw driver and open the ECU covers to look for obvious damage.

- undo the screws holding both covers down, back and front. (Yellow arrows in bellow pic)

http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/ecu/PGMFI-ECU-case.jpg

Have a look in the ECU for any obvious damage. Bellow is a good example of a burnt out ECU, you can see the big black area. This is not good. This would have been cause by some one very talented who would of hooked up the battery terminal back to front or some thing like that.

http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/ecu/PGMFI-BlownECU-001.jpg

http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/ecu/PGMFI-BlownECU-002.jpg

The above is an obvious failure. However if you open your ECU and you do not see anything like the above, then you can only check the ROM if in place firmly in the event that you have a modified ECU.

Locate the ROM and make sure it’s firmly inserted if it’s removable. Press down firmly in the centre of the ROM to seat it. See bellow pic yellow circle

http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/ecu/PGMFI-ECU-EPROM.jpg

At this time you should put your ECU back together, because unless you know what you’re doing you could create a fault if it doesn’t have one.

Substitute a known good ECU in your car and retest. If you have the same problem with a solid Cell, then your ECU is more than likely ok. If the substitute ECU starts and runs fine, your original ECU is toast.

Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!

No part of this DIY is to be reproduced with out acknowledgment of the site and author it came from, ie me and ozhonda.com. Do not rip parts off and claim them as your own.
11-04-2008, 12:31 PM
beeza

I'm getting a solid cell,it's staying solid.In the pic it's flicking off every 4-5 seconds.Is my code the same as this.Cheers John.
11-04-2008, 01:00 PM
ECU-MAN

yes solid cel can be considered as code 0 on a stock ECU ( ECU failure ).

is your ecu stock ???
11-04-2008, 03:05 PM
beeza

Yup.I've changed a bunch of things already...
13-04-2008, 05:48 PM
ECU-MAN

what car is this ecu from. year and tranny type ??

do you have an add on like rsm ect ??
13-04-2008, 07:46 PM
beeza

96EK1 Civic Gli d16y4 Automatic.I haven't modified the ECU at all but I have a resistor in the IAT sensor.It's the one that tells the computer the air temp is a couple of degrees lower and it compensates by giving a bit more fuel.I don't it relates but better to say now.
I opened the ECU up and there was no obvious damage.
14-04-2008, 01:57 PM
ECU-MAN

remove the resistor and put it back to stock and reset the ECU and test again.
14-04-2008, 02:19 PM
beeza

The problem is I've got a custom intake,so I haven't got the other half of the IAT sensor...
14-04-2008, 03:26 PM
ECU-MAN

what value is the resistor.

is the IACV connected

MAP and TPS connected.

although each device should give an individual code.

back to the begining thou, is the engine light on when you drive ???? with out the SCS bridged ???
14-04-2008, 03:55 PM
beeza

Yes the IACV,Map and TPS sensor are connected.The engine light dosen't come on when I drive only when I do the ECU check.
I'll have to get back to you with the value of the resistor.It's been in there for 2 1/2 years...
14-04-2008, 04:10 PM
JasonGilholme

beeza, more fuel is going to loose you power. unless your trying to cool your cylinder temperatures down, it'd be better off removing the resistor.
14-04-2008, 04:34 PM
beeza

I've been wanting to remove it for a while but I haven't got the other half of the sensor,the part that connects onto the intake arm.Am I able to just get another one,but I would have to connect it to the intake so it can get a reading wouldn't I?
14-04-2008, 04:36 PM
JasonGilholme

what do you mean two parts?? as in the clip and the sensor??

My 96 b16 has the sensor in the arm, the clip that goes onto the sensor with a wire or two and then it disappears into the loom.. All sort of one part.

is that the same as yours?
14-04-2008, 04:55 PM
beeza

Two parts meaning the male and female.The male is connected to stock intake arm (which I dont have) and the female has the resistor in it and is just connected to wires.
14-04-2008, 06:57 PM
ECU-MAN

Quote:

Originally Posted by beeza

Yes the IACV,Map and TPS sensor are connected.The engine light dosen't come on when I drive only when I do the ECU check.
I'll have to get back to you with the value of the resistor.It's been in there for 2 1/2 years...

you have no fault with your ECU

if you have no codes and the engine light does not come on with normal conditions. all is OK. its normal for the MIL to stay on when you bridge the SCS
14-04-2008, 07:17 PM
beeza

Shit! at least I thought I knew what the problem was :)
Thanks John!!!
14-04-2008, 09:35 PM
JasonGilholme

Quote:

Originally Posted by beeza

Two parts meaning the male and female.The male is connected to stock intake arm (which I dont have) and the female has the resistor in it and is just connected to wires.

still don't know what you mean lol

are you comin to the met on wednesday night?? if so we can chat then :thumbsup:
14-04-2008, 10:54 PM
beeza

Cheers Jase but I won't be attending...
I'll find the problem soon...
I will:
Clean out the dizzy and check the timing.
Check the plugs and leads
Replace the fuel filter
What's the sensor on the TB (d16y4 and many others....) that's on the side and can't be removed,or is riveted in? If that's stuff can it cause the car to bog/hesitate?
I've replaced all the other sensor's and it fixed the high idle and has made the car run better but it still bog's/hesitates.
16-07-2008, 06:47 PM
riruiz_88

my car recently started to run very sluggish at start up. simmilar to Beeza if not the same. i tried doing the diagnostics check but the CEL light stays on constantly, not showing any codes. it only happens for about 3-5mins after start up, but then all good when warmed up. any thing i can do to fix the "bogging"?