Euro performs better

I've done 6000kms on the odo, I've felt the Euro's engine perform better than I thought. It's easy to rev to the redline...it's responsive. I did not mod anything so far. What really impress me even further is the fuel consumption...where I used to get half of the fuel tank when I've done about 240-250km, now I can easily reach 300-320km. I know Honda's engines were built for fuel efficiency, but at the same time it loves to be revved. I believe the engine will even more responsive after I reach 10,000 on the odo. I think there has been discussions here but I just wanna share my experience with Euro. I'm extremely happy of what my decision to buy and own a Euro. Anyone wanna share with your Euro experience? :D :cool:

its probably just a case of u wearing in your engine.. glad to hear ur loving it!

I get more from a tank now (40,000km's on the clock) then when new. Also consider now though you get better milage in winter because it's colder and the air is denser. You also use your air con less in winter (generally) so that can be a huge saving.
I sometimes think it revs to redline too easily. Because it's a generally quiet car I hit redline too easily unless I'm looking at the tacho (instead of the road).

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Euro76

I've done 6000kms on the odo, I've felt the Euro's engine perform better than I thought. It's easy to rev to the redline...it's responsive. I did not mod anything so far. What really impress me even further is the fuel consumption...where I used to get half of the fuel tank when I've done about 240-250km, now I can easily reach 300-320km. I know Honda's engines were built for fuel efficiency, but at the same time it loves to be revved. I believe the engine will even more responsive after I reach 10,000 on the odo. I think there has been discussions here but I just wanna share my experience with Euro. I'm extremely happy of what my decision to buy and own a Euro. Anyone wanna share with your Euro experience? :D :cool:

---

Yeah,i agree.I'm on 19k,no mods and the engine really loves to rev but it's also responsive.I'm also happy with my Euro.

Love my Euro. Economical, can park anywhere and not worry about theft and don't have hero's lining up at the traffic light saying "race ya bro".

Yeh it takes around 10000-15000km to wear it in properly. Same for the gearbox. Shifting is now smoother ftw :thumbsup:

Yup, it only gets better. Remember to change your manual trans fluid after 1.5 years. There will be heaps of gunk in it from the running in of your gearbox.

Since you say 1.5 years, do you rekon I should get the MT fluid change at 10K? almost 7 mth already....

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tron07

Since you say 1.5 years, do you rekon I should get the MT fluid change at 10K? almost 7 mth already....

---

Nah, wait longer. I'd say 20k. But if you have the money to spend or if you DIY, there is nothing stopping you from changing your MTF now. :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BiLL|z0r

I get more from a tank now (40,000km's on the clock) then when new. Also consider now though you get better milage in winter because it's colder and the air is denser. You also use your air con less in winter (generally) so that can be a huge saving.
I sometimes think it revs to redline too easily. Because it's a generally quiet car I hit redline too easily unless I'm looking at the tacho (instead of the road).

---

Yes I notice that too...the cold winter not only good for Euro but it's also best for any high performance turbo cars :cool:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by aaronng

Nah, wait longer. I'd say 20k. But if you have the money to spend or if you DIY, there is nothing stopping you from changing your MTF now. :)

---

I did gave it some thought, and decided to leave it as the service manual's recomendation... cause I dont track the car, thus no point to waste money to change the fluids. Havent heard of any manual gearbox failing anyway... :thumbsup:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Euro76

Yes I notice that too...the cold winter not only good for Euro but it's also best for any high performance turbo cars :cool:

---

Yep the Euro rips hard in winter, especially with a clean/new air filter and new oil :honda:

Dont bother changing the Tranny oil that early, it lasts much longer than engine oil since MTF doesnt deal with dirty combustion.

Last midnight when I try to accelerate, from 5800rpm onwards, the car gets sudden increase in speed and rpm, it kicks really hard in winter nights than it was during summer nights. I've never thought of how impressive K24 engine is, since I drove Euro in winter for the first time. It sucks cold air (it was 5 degrees last night). I really thought the vtec kicks best in winter, I don't get this in summer, vtec does not kick really hard even at night time. I downshift and upshift the gears, the engine is just so responsive...and the 6MT is really a gem! And...love the engine noise last night...it really screams :)

The reason VTEC doesnt kick in as hard is because of the Variable Cam Timing (The i part of i-VTEC), the engine is already going hard before traditional VTEC kicks in, so its a lot smoother than say a B16A.

When full Variable VTEC engines are released, there will be no VTEC kick in at all :p

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by EuroDude

Yep the Euro rips hard in winter, especially with a clean/new air filter and new oil :honda:

Dont bother changing the Tranny oil that early, it lasts much longer than engine oil since MTF doesnt deal with dirty combustion.

---

Except that transmission oil doesn't get filtered. But ideally, just change it every 1.5 to 2 years.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by aaronng

Except that transmission oil doesn't get filtered. But ideally, just change it every 1.5 to 2 years.

---

Is there a 'magentised' bolt or part to keep some of the metals from running within the oil?

Having said that, that gearbox oil could still have a silvery/reflective coat on it. Not good for gearbox.

As for VTEC kicking in - well its just a power drop before 5800-6000rpm when it is continuing on its previous would-have-been continuous but slightly dropping away power curve anyway. I think its very psychological.

Honda could have programmed it to be nearly completely linear from low rpm to redline in the beginning.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Omotesando

Is there a 'magentised' bolt or part to keep some of the metals from running within the oil?

Having said that, that gearbox oil could still have a silvery/reflective coat on it. Not good for gearbox.

---

The stock bolt is not magnetised.

I wouldn't rely too much on a magnetised bolt to effectively prevent metal shards from recirculating in your tranny, dunno why Honda don't use tranny oil filters though..

Well wouldnt rely on it but the difference between having one and having none might do more good than harm in the long run I suppose.

The pertinent question to ask is - why isnt one there? Is there a reasoning behind its absence? You never know. May be Honda thinks its better having none there!?

Anyway, I have an issue to raise more relevant to the topic.

People often say the Euro loves cold air. I really want to say that nearly all cars perform with cold air anyway, especially turbo cars. The difference on a cold and hot day on the Euro is nothing compared to the difference on a turbo I can tell you that! Its much much more laggy when its hot in a turbo equipped car!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Omotesando

People often say the Euro loves cold air. I really want to say that nearly all cars perform with cold air anyway, especially turbo cars. The difference on a cold and hot day on the Euro is nothing compared to the difference on a turbo I can tell you that! Its much much more laggy when its hot in a turbo equipped car!

---

In a turbo-equipped car, the intake charge is pressurised and ends up at a higher temperature. Couple that with the higher air density in your cylinder which is then compressed means that your ECU will be dumping in much more fuel just to prevent pre-ignition.