Can DEXRON III ATF be used in Power/S resevoir? (Honda Civic EK)

Hey guys,

I have a 97' Honda CIVIC EK (done 144K fyi )
Ive had it for 2 years and previously bought it from a lady that didnt know what an air-filter was.
It runs fine, no leaks etc.. however,

I thought i might change the fluid in the power-steering resevoir as the manual says it needs to be changed because it stuffs up through winter/summer/winter/summer etc

i bought VALVOLINE DX III ATF.... now i was wondering, do i just empty the contents of the small resevoir container & fill it all up with this? because im guessing that ATF & Power-Steering fluid are from the same resevoir using the same type fluid.

Can you please clarify this for me before i go ahead emptying the resevoir container.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by c00lman

Hey guys,

I have a 97' Honda CIVIC EK (done 144K fyi )
Ive had it for 2 years and previously bought it from a lady that didnt know what an air-filter was.
It runs fine, no leaks etc.. however,

I thought i might change the fluid in the power-steering resevoir as the manual says it needs to be changed because it stuffs up through winter/summer/winter/summer etc

i bought VALVOLINE DX III ATF.... now i was wondering, do i just empty the contents of the small resevoir container & fill it all up with this? because im guessing that ATF & Power-Steering fluid are from the same resevoir using the same type fluid.

Can you please clarify this for me before i go ahead emptying the resevoir container.

---

As far as I am aware, the OEM fluids are far superior.

I am a bit confused by what you mean when you say that the fluids need to be changed because it "stuffs up" through summer and winter? Are you having trouble with your gearbox or is it just that the box needs a service?

umm not really...i just thought i'de do some home-maintenance on the car's fluid levels.
i drained the brake-fluid resv. and refilled with new one

and i thought about the power/steer fluid resevoir. looks dirty & it really hasnt been changed for atleast 3-4 years.
so i thought ill empty the plastic resevoir from the existing power/steer fluid and fill it up with new ATF DXIII fluid (which i thought will also assist with the transmission because it uses the same fluid?)

can i do that?

The transmission and the power steering system are two seperate systems.

You will not be "assisting" your tranny with anything if you change the PS fluid.

Some cars do tolerate using ATF as p/s fluid, some recommends the use of power steering fluid which is similar to ATF but with slight change in properties to be kind to the seals in the p/s pump.

Honda advises strictly not to use ATF or non geniune P/S fluid, thus a warning label on the reservoirs of their cars. Looking thru the castrol au's lube match they specify castrol fork oil for my EG. Little wonder you shouldn't use ATF or generic powersteering fluid. Since the Castrol fork oil is not cheap at $12-13 per 500mL bottle you might as well buy the genuine Honda P/S fluid.

But unless your P/S fluid is looking murky I won't bother changing it just yet.

a number of cars, Power Steer fluid and Automatic Transmission fluid actually double up.

Just not on most Japanese cars.

Well it is fairly murky... even though Honda highly recommends Honda P/S fluid, so that sucks. it says it'll damage my system if i use otherwise (i dont know why)..who cares, im still gonna use another brand

anyway i checked the manual, the P/S fluid is COMPLETELY different than ATF. so.. the question is... if i need to:

HOW DO I CHANGE ATF?

drain bolt on the trans case, jack up your vehicle loosen let it drain, tighten then add new ATF through the dipstick. Start vehicle shift through gears the turn off check within 30 seconds (around 2.7litres for most D series engine)

the dipstick nozzle if fairly narrow...how do i add fluid through there??
and so your saying there is a nozzle under the car (similar to the oil one) that allows you to drain the ATF?

so your estimating 2.7L for whats "D" series?

.. take it to a mech or get someone on here to offer a backyard job for you before you either hurt/kill yourself or **** your car, cos obviously you have no knowledge on what is what and also seems you do not have the proper equipment to perform a basic trans oil change (jack + stands, ect.)
not having a go at you or anything if you are offended by my post

nah no offense taken,

i recently changed the oil & filter on my own.. but i couldnt see the bolt for the ATF tank. all i wanted to know is that if there is one, ill just drain it, but im wondering if there is a cone narrow enough to fit in the nozzle on the top.

by the way, ive used the jack before with no stands, is that dangerous?

it's only dangerous to your skull been squashed by the sump or subframe if the hydraulic gives in, other than that I guess not.
Just buy a funnel and some plastic tubing and custom make a filler so it can be fed into the dipstick tube or some other ghetto shit like a coke bottle filler

lol ok,

well i got 1Ltr of VALVOLINE ATF DXIII now... so your estimating 2.7Ltrs for a (1.6L Auto) engine...
the manual says using ATF other than Honda may damage your system, i done really believe that garbage. otherwise there wouldnt be generic fluids like Valvoline, Castrol, etc on the market, true??

I'm not estimating it I'm quoting from the technical guide given to me when I worked at Honda. You may use generic oils as long as it's within the manufacturers specifications however doing the Power steering fluid flush with ATF fluid is highly not recommended.

did you say 2.7L i need of the crap for the tank?

... You asked how to change the ATF fluid so I was under the impression you were referring to TRANSMISSION oil.
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...power+steering
refer to that DIY to flush the PS system out

My mech has strictly told me to only use Honda fluid for the power steering because the others can damage seals. He said aftermarket is fine for other things like brake fluid etc. He services all sorts of cars not just Hondas.

No your correct,
I understood that P/S fluid is completely diff than the ATF fluid.

and you said that i need to drain the tank from beneath the car to release the ATF and fill up with a Honda or equivalent ATF DXIII with around 2.7 onto the dipstick.

but thanks for the link about flushing the power/steer fluid i needed it. ;)

OzSir2, ok thanks for the advice, can i get Honda P/S fluid from supercheap / autobarn??
is aftermarket ok for ATF too???

Go to the Honda dealer's spart parts section for OEM stuff. Some traders on this forum have OEM parts but I'm not sure about the fluids.

aftermarket ATF is ok for the gearbox as is aftermarket engine oil and brake fluid, as long it's within specifications from manufacturers.
Just power steering fluid is a must for genuine and only Honda would have access to power steering stock it would be a bit suss if I saw genuine PS honda fluid at supercheap

lol ok sweet. thnkx again

yeah steer clear from non-gen PS fluid.
you can pickup all honda oem parts from your local dealer, in many cases its not that much more expensive and is better in the long run.

but one thing you CAN get from supercheap/autobarn etc is a service manual. if you are going to be doing DIY's it will be a valuable tool :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by c00lman

Well it is fairly murky... even though Honda highly recommends Honda P/S fluid, so that sucks. it says it'll damage my system if i use otherwise (i dont know why)..who cares, im still gonna use another brand

---

I look forward to helping you in your next thread

" my does my stearing rack leak and shudder." " why doesnt my trans shift properly"

hehe nah, ive learnt after some convincing not to use other than Honda... but with other fluids its ok. ;)

i'd stick to original honda fluids for everything barring engine oil. Otherwise like ECUMAN stated you'll have issues. I have heard that especially on brake & powersteering that the seals are touchy on some models and stuff up if you use non-honda fluids. Then your gonna end up replacing the whole thing to save maybe a few dollars now? Honda parts aren't cheap, be warned

Ok i just spoke to a Honda rep...
they said u MUST use HONDA ATF & Power/St, ok for aftermarket brake fluid

can someone confirm whether the ATF tank is 2.7 or 3.7L?
its F**** $55 for ATF man...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by shadou

aftermarket ATF is ok for the gearbox as is aftermarket engine oil and brake fluid, as long it's within specifications from manufacturers.

---

Actually, it's a must to use Honda OEM ATF in the gearbox. :)

Does someone have a DIY for my Honda EK model changing the ATF fluid??
i dont think im gonna locate the damn screw. and also i dont know what to use to fill it up whether its a syringe type or a cone.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by c00lman

Ok i just spoke to a Honda rep...
they said u MUST use HONDA ATF & Power/St, ok for aftermarket brake fluid

can someone confirm whether the ATF tank is 2.7 or 3.7L?
its F**** $55 for ATF man...

---

2.5l to 2.7l for atf will be fine

http://b16a2.kicks-ass.net/automotiv...tech_guide.htm

you should price CVT trans fluid, then tell us whats friggen expensive.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by c00lman

Does someone have a DIY for my Honda EK model changing the ATF fluid??
i dont think im gonna locate the damn screw. and also i dont know what to use to fill it up whether its a syringe type or a cone.

---

dont use a syringe as you will airate the fluid.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ECU-MAN

dont use a syringe as you will airate the fluid.

---

I don't see how that would matter for ATF..... enlighten me.

air is compressible,

airated fluid becomes compressable.

clutch packs dont like it. although it will settle with time you will notice funny behaviour from the trans, then start chasing your tail.

Interesting... I directed my question cause I would have thought it would not have taken long to settle. You make it sound like it is some time.....

we've used non genuine ATF fluids on Honda's before and they seem to be in good nick no gearbox issues and that's with 50,000km+ since using.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ECU-MAN

2.5l to 2.7l for atf will be fine

http://b16a2.kicks-ass.net/automotiv...tech_guide.htm

you should price CVT trans fluid, then tell us whats friggen expensive.

---

lol.
the CVT is ****ing expensive, but i assure you, and panda can back me up on this, the CVT fluid, is magic.
lol.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by shadou

we've used non genuine ATF fluids on Honda's before and they seem to be in good nick no gearbox issues and that's with 50,000km+ since using.

---

and i've seen many fail from not using proper honda fluids.
but hey, your call in the end.
=)
lol

nah I always recommend genuine shit to customers but they always say "cheap cheap cheap" what can you do at the end of the day? it's their call not mine. I'm using nothing but genuine fluids in my ride even the oil + filters

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ECU-MAN

2.5l to 2.7l for atf will be fine

http://b16a2.kicks-ass.net/automotiv...tech_guide.htm

you should price CVT trans fluid, then tell us whats friggen expensive.

---

thanks for the site...umm yea i know its still is $55 because it comes in freakn 4Ltr for $55 or 1Ltr for $15 :zip:

on that site there is WET & DRY for Oil and ATF capacity, there seems to be a big diff, what is WET & DRY?
e.g ATF is 2.7L WET and 5.9Ltr DRY

1 more thing, it says its for the 4-door, mine is 3-door, any diff??

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by c00lman

what is WET & DRY?

---

Wet should refer to just a drain and refill, and dry being after a pull down and rebuild.

OK thanks...
i need a Auto Transmission Fluid change Guide.
dunno where to start all i got is the fluid & a cone

Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!


- rais the front of the vehicle and support it on safety stands
- place a drip tray under the trans
- use a 3/8th wratchet and crack the drain plug.
- by hand loosen the drain plug and align the drip tray with the plus as you remove the plug to catch the pouring oil.
- wait until no more oil comes out. 10 min or so. ( some times you will forever get a trickle of oil coming out as the torque converter drains abit )
- clean the magnet on the drain bolt and replace the aluminum washer.
- refit the drain bolt, do not overtighten it, but dont leave it loose, nice and firm
- lower the vehicle to the ground, make sure the car is level
- remove the trans dip stick.
- I use a funnel and some clear tube. place your funnel in the dipstick hole and pour your 2.5l in
- put the dip stick in.
- start the car, whith the park brake up, place your foot on the brake pedal firmly.
- select R, then D4 then R then D4 then R then D4 the put it in P.
- turn off the engine
- with in 10 seconds remove the dipstick, clean it with a rag, seat it back in the dipstick hole and remove it and check the level. top up if nessary but do not overfill.
- refit the dipstick when done

if the engine/trans is cold, the fluid should register on the lower portion of the dipstick level marking

if the engine/trans is hot, the fluid should register on the high portion of the dipstick level marking


its your choice if you do the above when the car is hot or cold. hot is better but you risk burning yourself as you remove the drain plug with the hot oil coming out.

Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!

thanx heapz... ;)
the drain plug, is there only 1 of em?

yes for automatics

hmmm idiots shulda made the dipstick hole a lil wider .. ive been calling around to find a bloody narrow funnel.. not very easy... supacheap apparently has some.

clear hose over the end of a small funnel works fine, go to a hardware store and get some.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by c00lman

hmmm idiots shulda made the dipstick hole a lil wider .. ive been calling around to find a bloody narrow funnel.. not very easy... supacheap apparently has some.

---

I get my small funnel for ATF from the discount store. $0.50 each or $1.50 for a set of 3 in various sizes. :)

another idea if you have some cash is buy some castrol dexIII (I think) 4 liters, I bought a bottle for my moms car and it had an extend-able filler neck, I kept the bottle cos it's dam handy and cheaper than buying a funnel + hose attachment.

Worth it if you are doing 2 cars. No point if you are going to use half and keep the remainder for another half year while it starts to get contaminated with moisture.

yeah my parents cars are both 6 cylinder vehicles that why I bought the 4 liter bottle, I loved the filler neck design.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by shadou

another idea if you have some cash is buy some castrol dexIII (I think) 4 liters, I bought a bottle for my moms car and it had an extend-able filler neck, I kept the bottle cos it's dam handy and cheaper than buying a funnel + hose attachment.

---

I thought you said use nothing but Honda ATF? (Castrol?)
4L = $55.00
1L = $15
Honda ATF is equivalant to ( DX III? )

Nope, if you go through Castrol's website, they don't have an ATF that is equivalent to Honda's ATF.

I was just commenting on the design on the Castrol bottles

BTW, just came back from Supercheap and they sell a set of 3 funnels (red in colour) for $1.50. The smallest funnel in the set is small enough to fit into the filler hole. So go for it.

lol cool, will do...im just swining past Rockdale's Honda to get ATF & PowerSteer Fluid. im getting for ATF, 1L x 3 ($16x3 = $48)
as opposed to 4L x 1 ($55.00) .. i only need 2.7L and u flush the tranny fluid once a purple moon [ save $7 :)) ]