What engine oil (Brand/Viscosity) are you using and what's been your experience with it?
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What engine oil (Brand/Viscosity) are you using and what's been your experience with it?
Use Honda OEM High Performance Oil. Seems to work fine for me, longest lasting..!!
ELF 10-40.
pretty good oil. but then again i change my oil every 5000kms or less.
Honda OEM or Mobil 1 10-30
Havent used the Castrol Edge 5-30 or Mobil 1 0-40 yet.
Hey Guys What About Motul Or Royal Purple Are They Any Good? Where Can I Get Oem Oil From? I Need To Service My Car Not Shure What To Use.
Motul also are good, used that once before, the OEM stuff you can get from Honda Service Centres.
I use to use FEO but found it breaks down to quickly in r type engines. Have changed to castrol edge synthetic 5w 30 :thumbsup: and have not had any issues with it. FEO is great for your base type engines.
i use royal purple,
heard it was the best and it works like a charm for me
worth the extra few bucks imo
FEO works fine for my or Motul full synthetic 10 w 40
how much is castrol synthetic 5-30? might give that a go.
with the numbers. 5-30
isnt 5 represents when cold and 30 for its heat range? viscosity (spelling)
cause i remember that for track use the FEO honda oil gets thin very quickly.
i use elf oil 10w30 full synthetic
hey guys anyone know anywhere good they would recomend to service my car? asked hanny e said around $550 for major service, is that good?
also he said he will use feo and elf oil? is that any good? thanks for the help
hannys is very good and very trustworthy he is my mechanic and does a very good job lol but he only works on hondas u bring him a nissan or anything else he refuses to work on it elf oil is what i use and is a very good oil used for racing and he has very competitive prices
Honda FEO – a high quality premium Genuine Honda Engine Oil
so feo is good?
FEO is a mineral oil, 10w-30. While it is good for a mineral oil, it is still no match against the synthetic offerings from other brands.
isnt honda FEO just re badged castrol oil?
yeh pretty much man honda has oil but castrol makes it anyway although hannys uses elf which is very good quality oil
does the thiner oils get used heaps quicker??
yes but the f20c needs light weight oil, so the only thing you can do is keep toping up the oil if its low.
oic .. thats good to know cos recently i bought wrong oil (0w-40) haha and was gonna go swap with my friend for his 5w-50 even tho big difference in price (i dun realli mind lolz) cos i thought would be way too thin for me.
elf 10w40 is what i use
I use Mobil 1 10-30
Thinking of trying the 0-40 next as my car has nearly 100km's.
i use full syn elf oil :D awesome oil :D
ive tried
SHELL HELIX ECO-10 (10-30) completely shit...
ROYAL PURPLE (10-40) loss viscosity at about 3500KM shit...
now back to
GENUINE HONDA OIL "FEO" think i will just stick to this..
ive been told not much oil can put up with 9000RPM.. and last the duration it is expected to.. so that explains it...
Shell Helix Eco 10 is fully mineral and cheap.
What about Motul 8100 5w-40? Have you tried that one?
i just use the honda feo oil, it costs me about $25 for teh large container, and it might need a topping up when a 10k km service is due if the car has been driven hard or a track day, but besides that, usage is minimal
Just brought the stock Honda S2K oil... is it true that it's recommended that you check your oil everytime you fill your tank?
Thanks not cool.
Depends if your S burns a shitload oil each week or not.
Mine doesnt at all, but I know some do.
Just thought I'd update you all as I was thinking under the hood yesterday and noticed this but on the Engine Oil Cap, it actually reads to use a 10-30w engine oil.
The two numbers represent viscosity or resistance to flow.
Xw-Y
X represents the viscosity at 0 degrees celcius.
w is for winter.
Y represents the viscosity at 100 degrees celcius.
We seldom get to 0 degrees in Aus and 100 is about operating temp so only the second number is relevant.
Now keen natural scientists may notice that the oil seems to get thicker as it gets hotter which is against the natural law of things. That is because it is 'Friction Modified' oil and undergoes a molecular change as it heats up in the range from 0-100C. Below 0 it gets thicker and above 100 it gets thinner.
Here endeth the lesson. Now where's my cookie?
^^
Woah lookout.... the cookie monster is at it again :D LOL
It's -18 C. So it is even less relevant! (but still important).
Ooops, that is correct. It's 0 degrees Fahrenheit which is -18 degrees Celcius.
I LOL a little when people say 0w and 5w are too thin for their engine, and that someone told them to put in 15w for added protection, when they totally ignore the hot temperature viscosity.
Another post asked if he should put in 15w-30 instead of 10w-30 because his engine had many kms on it... I think we need a stickied oil FAQ!
Motul 8100 5W40 is oil I've mainly used in the past 4 years. A friend of mine had used it on his DC2R and his S2000. It stands up very well to a good sustained VTEC thrashing IMO.
I've had Fuch's in my S2K and that burned off rather quickly but the Motul has had a harder life but suffered less burn-off.
My friend's Integra used to burn off quite a bit of Mobil1 with blue smoke but that pretty much stopped once he swapped over to the Motul 8100.
These are only a lay-person's observations and subject to any scientific evaluation though.
So the mobil 1 5 - 50w is too heavy for the s2k?
Yes, 5w50 is too heavy for the S2k. 10w30 is recommended. 10w40 at most.
I'm using the Mobil 1 10-30 with the Comptech kit too.
Presumed this should be ok.
I ran 5-50 once.... Car ran like crap. Swapped it out myself no more than 2000kms later.
I just ordered 10 litres from Honda in Frankston this morning. Doing the gearbox and diff too this weekend all genuine.
Good prices and they have always been good to me there with my other Hondas. Correct me if I am wrong, but Honda are a mineral oil? I change my engine oil every 5000km anyway.
James.
It's a supercharger kit.
About a 100hp in standard form. You can upgrade the boost though with the necessary mods.
It's actually about 50% gain as we're talking at the wheels.
But you should see what a turbo can do. 75-100% is not unobtainable.
Motul 300V Chrono 10w-40 (Spoon Sports recommend this for there engines)!
Double Ester $120 for a 4L and a 2L Bottle. :D
Used this on my DC5R for track and now on the S2000. Changed every 3-5K km.
Revs feel very smooth and loves revving to 9K. A lot better then Mobil 1 Gold Bottle. Which is $80 for 5L.
royal purple 10-40 here. Dont know if its just my head playing tricks but the car does feel like it revs smoother than when i was using the Elf oil?
oh yea, and the oil is actually purple!
how about 0w20 FEO?
seen a bottle of that in a 4L metal container at my local Honda parts dept some 2 years ago, it was about $80-90 and the parts guy said it's for the S2000. Unlike the 10w30 mineral oil made by an australian petroleum company bottled in a container with a Honda/FEO sticker; this one is fully syn imported from Japan.
I've just recently changed from Mobil 1 Gold (from Honda) to Motul 8100 Xcess 5w-40 and it runs better, smooth plus engine is quieter.
I'm tempted to change, but since I can now markdown Mobil 1 10-30 to like $35 since its on clearance, I think I'll just keep using it until I can no longer get it.
hey.. i know no one uses 50..
but if its tracked. would the 50 rated oil be ideal.? as it doesnt break down as quick @100+ degrees
^
I was actually going to try that next :thumbsup:
I just dumped my oil after 5000km and a track day. Car has 60,000km and I run Honda 10w30 and it was still pretty nice. Doesn't use too much even after a full day tracking at Sandown. I think it's good value and since I change every 5000km not to bad at all. I run it in my CRX ZC race car too and will probably run it in my vintage air cooled stuff this summer as well.
I have never had an issue with factory oil in 12 years of Honda ownership.
how much does hanny usually charge for a servcie??
Good condition F20C engine shouldn't burn oil at all even with using different types of oil.
Some burn a lot of oil though Erik.
My friend has 50K on the speedo, and he checks the engine oil every 2 petrol fillups.
That's really odd then mmmmm there should be another reasons why it burns oil though..
I'm no expert here :)
My understanding is that the AP1's have a ring flutter issue at high revs, causing consumption when rev'd hard. Some people see it others don't, may be driving style.
Consumption in my AP1 seems to reflect this as well.
Not true is real world conditions.
The number before the w is the viscosity at -18C. Not a temperature your likely to see. The number after the w is the viscosity at 100C. Considering this number is the same for both oil specifications and the Winter number isn't really that relevant the two oils are basically the same weight.
^^ I stand corrected.
Just an update on this since I need an oil change and stumbled across this on s2ki...
http://home.tiscali.nl/onlinestorage/Oil%20Specs.JPG
I was last using Motul 300V Chrono last 5000k's and just changed to 8100 X-cess now. The engine rev seems more responsive to the 300V. Then again the 300V is abit more expensive.
Could somone confirm how much oil to top up when changing oil and filter? isit 4.7L?and do i need to fill the new oil filter up to half way before whacking it on my car?( i think i read that from s2ki). and finally how long are the intervals before i need to change them. p.s running 10w30 feo
cheers
yesterday,i have just changed the oil from hondas mineral since last service 6months ago with 2500km.The oil was fairly dark and i replaced with valvoline synthetic 5/40 from repco.After starting up the engine,i heard the tappet sound for awhile thinking its playing up but guess its the oil going through the chambers.I love the smooth drive.Its good using non mineral the first time.