quick question:
im about to purchase a brake master cylinder from 98 itr, is it a direct bolt-on to eg5?
and if so, is there anything else that needs to be done for the install?
cheers-
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quick question:
im about to purchase a brake master cylinder from 98 itr, is it a direct bolt-on to eg5?
and if so, is there anything else that needs to be done for the install?
cheers-
dont forget you need the brake booster as well ( the black thing that the master cylinder sits on)
It is almost a bolt on job - you need to lightly rebend the 2 brake lines to suit the new MC size and length. Take care in doing this and bleed your brakes properly once everything is installed
can you please provide a picture, which way you would need to bend slightly?
It's simple to understand...
Here's a pic of my 1" integra MC on my EG, although im running all my own brake lines.
See where the 2 lines meet up on the MC. This is where the are on the DC2 MC. On the old EG MC (all you need to do is look at your own as a comparison to this pic, or search on the forums) they are i a different location.. and as Ben said, you will need to slightly bend your brake lines where they meet up with the MC so they will fit the new location.
Supposedly you can bend them to reach the new locations. I personally haven't tried this but i do know that brake line bends easy. Just be sure not to bend it TOO much that you kink and/or brake the line. I did notice that if you have a 90 degree bend and you try bend it 90 degrees the complete opposite way that you will most likely snap the line or really weaken it.
Just be smart in your approach and you should have no issues.. You may also wanna pick up a decent 10mm pipe spanner for this as these fittings get quiet tight overtime and you will be truely amazed at how easy you will round off one of these fittings, take my work for it as i know from experience :P
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...985/zzz173.jpg
wow you got me scared now. im comparing your picture to my EG and the only difference i can see is the line that is closest to the radiator needs to be bent. and as for the fittings, how do you suppose i remove the most efficient way? should i lightly hit the spanner with a mallet just to loosen it? same goes for when fitting back on?
I'm not meaning to scare you. It really is a simple task but if done without care it could turn to shit lol.
These are pipe spanners, i would go grab a set, even just get a decent 10mm one. They arent that expensive and will possibly save you alot of heartache:
http://www.mytoolstore.com/sk/373.jpg
I usually get the spanner on and give it a tap to loosen it. But if the spanner is not a good fit or the fittings are already slightly rounding then hitting it can cause even the pipe spanner to round off on it.. I suggest getting the correct pipe spanner on it and giving it a quick swift hit with a mallet/hammer. They should come off easy this way, they become loose pretty much instant after a swift tap... If you do end up rounding them then you will need to use vice grips to remove it and once you do that the fitting will be pretty much screwed. If that happens you most likely will need to pull the fitting back cut the line as close to the flare as possible and then reflare the line. You would need a double flare tool and a pipe cutter if this happenes and if you mess that up a few times you will end up running out of line and need new line...
I'm only saying this as i messed up a few of my fittings and it has caused me a hell of alot of hassle.. so just do it right the first time lol. As i said.. it is a very simple task, it just needs to be done with care.
you'll definately need that special spanner tool.. its like 30bucks for the set
whats so special about those spanners? from what i can see, the dont have as many teeth as the normal spanners, is that right? and what about putting the fitting back onto the cylinder, should i hit with a mallet and how tight should it be?
the best way i can think of to describe those spanners is that it is a complete snug fit over the fitting...
It is a hell of a lot less likely to round off the fitting because of how snug it fits on the fitting..
They have just a little cut out so they can fit around the pipe.
It is a single hex spanner which is better to use on soft materials such as brake fittings. Using a double hex spanner could round these fittings off quiet easily.
Putting the fitting back on you dont want to hit it with a hammer and you definately dont want to overtighten the fittings.
I just do them firm.
yep i get what your on about the spanners, makes sense. looks like im gonna buy these then, or might ask my bro if he has them. so when tightening fittings, dosnt need to be SO tight. i was thinking as well, if i was to get an ITR hard brake line would it fit like standard to the prop valve? the one closest to the radiator?
what about the reservoir cover, i have leads going to the cover in my current EG. would the ITR come with the leads or would i need to use EG cover on master cylinder?
those leads on the cover are for a low brake fluid indicator. I'm guessing you would have a light on your dash come up if your brake fluid gets too low.
You EG should have the correct wiring for the ITR MC. They both have the same wiring on the cap.
yeh thats what im talking about, how come in your picture it dosnt show the leads? or are they behind where u cant see in the picture? so its all good to use EG cap on ITR reservoir?
Just use the cap that comes with the ITR master cylinder. The wiring is the same. I havent looked, but the caps could be different as the cylinders are different in volume (EG = 15/16" and ITR = 1"). The wiring is the same. Those plugs IMO arent the most important thing anyway... If you need an indicator for your brake fluid being low then there's something wrong! You should know before an indicator.Quote:
Originally Posted by riruiz_88
yeh i guess its up to me to check the amount of fluid i have in it. i have read somewhere that removing the booster is fairly hard in EG's cause the strut tower is in the way, did you have the same problem? and installing the ITR booster, is it a tight fit because of the bigger size? also did you have to bench bleed your master cylinder because i have heard that this is a must other wise you will still get air bubbles even after bleeding from all the brakes?
nah, the worst part of removing it is taking out the nuts on the booster under the dash, they can be awkward to get too. The booster fits past the strut tower on the ITR and EG fairly easy. It does come pretty much flush with the tower on removal but its easy to wriggle it out, this isnt an issue at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by riruiz_88
I dont know about the bench bleeding. If you find info on that one let me know.. I was just going to give the whole system a real good bleed once it was in the car but maybe not i guess...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul1985
yep get them spanners its a pain in the ass geting them off if you round them.
spoke to my dad today, and he came up with a good comeback. will the brake seals be able to handle the amount of pressure since its a bigger cylinder? as im not running ITR brakes, only standard EG rears (discs) and EK4 fronts
ek4 front calipers will be fine
had a 1" on my stock ek4 calipers and they were good
stock ek4 booster is 15/16 anyway
is EK4/EM1 brake booster and master cylinder the same size as EG5? the EK4 looks like it is much bigger than the EG counterpart.
pm sent to VINNY
its bigger. I told u this via PM you douche lol.
say what, since when? unless i deleted it haha. ok now that i know its bigger, would EK4 booster and cylinder be straight fit without modification in EG?
pretty much yup.Quote:
Originally Posted by riruiz_88
sweet thank you very much, you have been the ONLY one to give me a straight answer to this question.