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  1. #13
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Geelong
    Car:
    EG
    those leads on the cover are for a low brake fluid indicator. I'm guessing you would have a light on your dash come up if your brake fluid gets too low.

    You EG should have the correct wiring for the ITR MC. They both have the same wiring on the cap.

  2. #14
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    Civic EG Si Hatchi
    yeh thats what im talking about, how come in your picture it dosnt show the leads? or are they behind where u cant see in the picture? so its all good to use EG cap on ITR reservoir?

  3. #15
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Geelong
    Car:
    EG
    Quote Originally Posted by riruiz_88 View Post
    yeh thats what im talking about, how come in your picture it dosnt show the leads? or are they behind where u cant see in the picture? so its all good to use EG cap on ITR reservoir?
    Just use the cap that comes with the ITR master cylinder. The wiring is the same. I havent looked, but the caps could be different as the cylinders are different in volume (EG = 15/16" and ITR = 1"). The wiring is the same. Those plugs IMO arent the most important thing anyway... If you need an indicator for your brake fluid being low then there's something wrong! You should know before an indicator.

  4. #16
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    Civic EG Si Hatchi
    yeh i guess its up to me to check the amount of fluid i have in it. i have read somewhere that removing the booster is fairly hard in EG's cause the strut tower is in the way, did you have the same problem? and installing the ITR booster, is it a tight fit because of the bigger size? also did you have to bench bleed your master cylinder because i have heard that this is a must other wise you will still get air bubbles even after bleeding from all the brakes?

  5. #17
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Geelong
    Car:
    EG
    Quote Originally Posted by riruiz_88 View Post
    yeh i guess its up to me to check the amount of fluid i have in it. i have read somewhere that removing the booster is fairly hard in EG's cause the strut tower is in the way, did you have the same problem? and installing the ITR booster, is it a tight fit because of the bigger size? also did you have to bench bleed your master cylinder because i have heard that this is a must other wise you will still get air bubbles even after bleeding from all the brakes?
    nah, the worst part of removing it is taking out the nuts on the booster under the dash, they can be awkward to get too. The booster fits past the strut tower on the ITR and EG fairly easy. It does come pretty much flush with the tower on removal but its easy to wriggle it out, this isnt an issue at all.

    I dont know about the bench bleeding. If you find info on that one let me know.. I was just going to give the whole system a real good bleed once it was in the car but maybe not i guess...

  6. #18
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Melb
    Car:
    180sx,R33 Gtst 4door
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul1985 View Post
    I'm not meaning to scare you. It really is a simple task but if done without care it could turn to shit lol.

    These are pipe spanners, i would go grab a set, even just get a decent 10mm one. They arent that expensive and will possibly save you alot of heartache:


    I usually get the spanner on and give it a tap to loosen it. But if the spanner is not a good fit or the fittings are already slightly rounding then hitting it can cause even the pipe spanner to round off on it.. I suggest getting the correct pipe spanner on it and giving it a quick swift hit with a mallet/hammer. They should come off easy this way, they become loose pretty much instant after a swift tap... If you do end up rounding them then you will need to use vice grips to remove it and once you do that the fitting will be pretty much screwed. If that happens you most likely will need to pull the fitting back cut the line as close to the flare as possible and then reflare the line. You would need a double flare tool and a pipe cutter if this happenes and if you mess that up a few times you will end up running out of line and need new line...

    I'm only saying this as i messed up a few of my fittings and it has caused me a hell of alot of hassle.. so just do it right the first time lol. As i said.. it is a very simple task, it just needs to be done with care.

    yep get them spanners its a pain in the ass geting them off if you round them.

  7. #19
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    Civic EG Si Hatchi
    spoke to my dad today, and he came up with a good comeback. will the brake seals be able to handle the amount of pressure since its a bigger cylinder? as im not running ITR brakes, only standard EG rears (discs) and EK4 fronts

  8. #20
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    sydney yo
    Car:
    green whip!
    ek4 front calipers will be fine
    had a 1" on my stock ek4 calipers and they were good

    stock ek4 booster is 15/16 anyway

  9. #21
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    Civic EG Si Hatchi
    is EK4/EM1 brake booster and master cylinder the same size as EG5? the EK4 looks like it is much bigger than the EG counterpart.

    pm sent to VINNY

  10. #22
    its bigger. I told u this via PM you douche lol.

  11. #23
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    Civic EG Si Hatchi
    say what, since when? unless i deleted it haha. ok now that i know its bigger, would EK4 booster and cylinder be straight fit without modification in EG?

  12. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by riruiz_88 View Post
    say what, since when? unless i deleted it haha. ok now that i know its bigger, would EK4 booster and cylinder be straight fit without modification in EG?
    pretty much yup.

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