has anyone encounted any vibration when the car hits 2000 revs???
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has anyone encounted any vibration when the car hits 2000 revs???
yes i do. i only started noticing it not too long ago. im thinking its just because when i attached my cai it's a little bit crooked. im thinking its just got something to do with the piping rubbing the car or something.
Moved to the Euro section and fixed your vague title.
I had vibration at 2100rpm when my car was fully stock.
mine never stay long at 2k RPM.... :p
but my doors got rattling/vibrating sound at the door lock knob area...
Different RPM's vibrate different parts of the car, and 2000rpm seems to be the RPM that vibrates the car the most. It happens on mine too so it seems normal for all euros.
tron, if you hear rattling from the door, you just need to remove the window switch assembly and apply some tape around the switch housings. I think its the main drivers window switch that rattles around
At 2000-2100rpm, well in my case at least, it is not vibrating because of the interior. There seems to be a sort of resonance with the intake and maybe the exhaust system that causes resonance vibration throughout. Resonance vibration sounds very different to rattling. I don't hear it anymore with my current intake, so let's see if the Euro owners who have CAIs also have this problem.
Tony1234, do you have this problem with your Icebox (and stock header)?
[QUOTE=tron, if you hear rattling from the door, you just need to remove the window switch assembly and apply some tape around the switch housings. I think its the main drivers window switch that rattles around[/QUOTE]
I had that rattling as well but i found it came from the electric mirror switch.Did the same fix that Eurodude did and all is quiet now.:)
No i don't.all i have is some vibration when i don't give the car enough revs on take off from a standstill.This vibration is only since i've put the headers on.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
I got an Injen CAI and it rattles around 2000rpm's. :thumbsup: or should it be :thumbdwn:
Havent started sound deadening my car yet... so just living with it..... got a box of dynamat extreme and a piece of dynamat extremeliner for the car already. Also got a piece of insuflex for the door. Thinking maybe getting a can of Cascade Quietkote to spary the door panel before sticking the insuflex.Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroDude
Mine does the same, its alot more noticeable when in wrong gear.
If you are in the wrong gear (too high) and vibrating, then you are lugging the engine. That is a different (and bad) issue. Don't lug your engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Euro08Jaz
Perhaps one of those engine vibration absorbers would help (those shock absorbers that you connect from the engine to the chassis)Quote:
Originally Posted by tron07
Huh? Do you mean torque damper? If that is the one, they magnify vibrations into your cabin.Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroDude
^ yeah thats the one. If they magnify the vibrations, why use them?
It's to stop engine movement to reduce wheel hop. Like solid engine mounts. Total opposite of what you want to use it for.Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroDude
On my Euro, it makes such a vibration that when the A/C comes on at idle, it sounds like a dying diesel engine. BTW, coming to wakefield on saturday?
Read this thread...Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroDude
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=58673
I see. wakefield? didnt even know it was onQuote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
cheerzQuote:
Originally Posted by tron07
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=84916Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroDude
My one got vibration noise from the left front window (especially when going over small bumps like the patches on the road cracks), sounds like the glass is not securely positioned. Weird thing is that the noise disappears when I wine down the window just a little bit. Maybe I am just too fussy or maybe the engin is just too damn quite.
Also got a question about running-in, not sure if I should ask here or start another thread.
Both euro and this forum is new to me, so solute to seniors!:honda:
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...hlight=runningQuote:
Originally Posted by Euronda
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...hlight=running
When I first installed my Icebox I gained some vibration at around the 2KRPM mark. Several months later, I re-tightened the screws around the box (which originally didn't fit perfectly) and now the noise is gone entirely.
I suspect that prior to this the airbox had been sucking air in from a corner of the box itself.
Since sealing the airbox properly, the setup is much quieter in all aspects of operation now (not just NVH). There is also much better low-down torque available. I can actually drive the car around in 4th gear at low speeds without any dramas whatsoever (only if I'm lazy or something else is going on in the car).
Thanks aaronng! always thought it's the engin that needs the run-in.
The dealer told me to avoid staying on one gear or use cruise control on highways. is this for the sake of gear box or engin? If for the engin, wouldn't the idle warming up be bad as well then, since the RPM stays the same when idle? mine is 600k now, is it too late to run hard to sit the ring properly? kinda did one long run on highway for about 40 mins on pretty much the 6th gear (it's just hard to use anything lower than 5th gear with 120k/h speed limit). how bad would it be? :(
decided on euro when the dealer hit VTEC during the test drive. just sounds sweet,looking forward to hitting the red line :)
I just let it idle for about 30 seconds before driving off gently. For a new car, try to avoid driving on the highway for the first 100-200km if possible. What's done is done. Just keep monitoring your oil consumption every month.Quote:
Originally Posted by Euronda
:) quick reply indeed, still up apparently :) Thanks for your advice, yes, what's done is done and I should just think this way: even wasn't run in the best but with today's high manufacturing standards, it won't be a disaster anyway!
Have other Euro owners found that adding a CAI resulted in not feeling this resonance at 2000RPM?Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Didn't have this with stock airbox and don't have it with Icebox and k&n filter.Quote:
Originally Posted by unity
Lucky you. This is the only thing that still really annoys me about my Euro and I still don't know whether it is meant to exist or not. If there was a way off getting rid of this resonance then I would.Quote:
Originally Posted by tony1234
I find that the hook that holds the bonnet down when closed is not tight enough and allows the bonnet to move up and down a few mms causing a rattling sound at low rpms and take off. I have fixed this sound and a few other euro friends of mine by putting some electric tape around the hook to make it tight enough when closed. You can replicate this sound easily by pressing down on the front of ur bonnet and releasing again repeatedly, I'm pretty sure all Euros have this problem, and it would be the first thing I would fix before other rattles because it took me a while to realise that the noise was actually from outside.
You must have good ears to hear that noise from inside. I have just had my whole bonnet changed so I wouldn't expect and ill fitting compents this early in the piece.Quote:
Originally Posted by viper8548
Old thread but as some may know I have the vibration above 2000rpm too butcan't find the other thread, it's like buckled wheels but under load only.
Took it to Honda yesterday but they still have my car to fix the 2 recalls on the Euro. Talked to the tech and he recons its the CV joint, lets see if he is right, somehow I think it is Head related.
i would have either considered lugs or hub problem/ wheel bearing.
Or
Your choice of CV joint.
When is the last time you balanced and aligned your wheels?
Btw what sort of vibration is it jerky bumpy sort of vibrationg or constant droney? and what mods on your euro if any.
A CV joint would give a knocking sound. Not really a vibration. And my Euro had this 2000rpm vibration from new.
I seem to find it's more noticeable when going down a hill with my foot completely off the accelerator pedal at 2000RPM as opposed to going up a hill at 2000RPM. I don't know why the difference but.
Different throttle position = different air flow through intake = different resonance point.Quote:
Originally Posted by unity
So does that mean that the throttle is never completely closed when your foot is off the accelerator pedal?Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
never is cause car is always at few hundred rpm when idling.
Yeah, it was a dumb question. Wasn't thinking at the time. Do they ever clean the throttle body during service?Quote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
My wheels are good, happens with other mags I put too. Got it back and had about 15 fault codes which can only be cleared by their computer not by disconnecting the battery, so they cleared them and they didn't fix the vibration which only happens under load not when just rolling or cruising. They claim it could be the drive shaft that flexes in the joint at the gearbox, not the actual CV joint but can only test it by putting new CV's, I will go talk to the CV specialist and see what he thinks. Feels like buckled wheels when under load above 2000rpm and usually above 70 or so K's, I know it is not my wheels, coils, injectors, spark plugs.
Also I asked why my engine is kinda vibrating at idle and he said most Euros do that above 120000k's and it may be due to the engine mounts stiffening up over time, other than that he knows it is a problem that Honda has no answers for.
Honda charged $46 fr the diagnosis and testing, not too bad asI was expecting more, also got the recall jobs done while there.
Don't worry my idle is noticeable at times and my car has only done 20,000kmsQuote:
Originally Posted by flipmods
It is a 4-cylinder engine, of course there will be some vibration at idle!
Nope, and I have not cleaned mine in my 5 years of ownership either.Quote:
Originally Posted by unity
most prob not,Quote:
Originally Posted by unity
doesn't get too dirty but if you do i think you can use carby/throttle body cleaner spray... but some of the dirty stuff is caked on.
You would think over time it would build up a layer of debris. With all the crap and particles in the air they must be getting deposited where ever the air is travelling. Or is there some sort of filter for this purpose?Quote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
your air filter is what keeps it clean.
but it still builds up dirt from the fumes and dirt particles.
if your worried that your butterfly in the TB is going to get jammed then you can clean it yourself.
No way. It may be an easy job for some but when I take things apart they never seem to go back in the right order again. I'll just pay to have it done. I can't afford to be without my car.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
rofl but don't waste your money or get it done on your next service.
No, I'll wait till my 3 year service.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
Sorry I mean more of a jolt sorta like a very small miss.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Anyway might have to talk to a driveshaft specialist as it is not the engine, wheels and only happens under load above 80k's an hour.
Man I think I got this same exact problem. Have you heard of any other fix other than using electric tape? Are the bonnets on all Euros like this?Quote:
Originally Posted by viper8548
Seems to be a problem on the CU2 too.
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...php?p=10664274
Anything you can find that thickens the hook abit will do, all of my friends euros have this problem so its probably normal. the rattle will be more obvious on manual cars when take off timing is not perfect which causes some vibration hence triggers the rattle.Quote:
Originally Posted by unity
The black rubber bits that rest against the bonnet can be adjusted up and down they are both just above the headlight, I moved mine so they were about a 1mm higher to eliminate the hood chatter/rattle.Quote:
Originally Posted by unity
Funny thing is I replaced all the clips and the noise didnt go away, so did abit of exploration and came up with this method.
Just adjust the bump stops. They are the black knobs on both side of the radiator support.Quote:
Originally Posted by unity
Edit: Ahhh, Min988 beat me to it. :)
Well know i know what they are called "bump stops"
Which rubber bit? I tried turning mine but they dont move up or down at all no matter how much i turn it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Min988
Just above the headlights. Turn anticlockwise a little bit to get them to stick out more. They push against the bonnet and keep it from rattling.Quote:
Originally Posted by viper8548
Thanks guys for that advice. I'll give that a try. I also read in the repair manual that the bonnet can be adjusted to move left or right or forwards or backwards. So I'll get the alignment checked to make sure its a plush fit. My vibration is most noticable on a cold start when the idle is higher than when the car is warmed up.
You shouldn't need to adjust the bonnet alignment unless your car has been in an accident and had the bonnet replaced.Quote:
Originally Posted by unity
Ahh you ment the outer rubber studs, yes I can adjust them, but ifi adjust for the noise to go away, my bonnet sites higher than my fender and not flushedQuote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
you do it just enough to sit flush.
Well I was in an accident and had the bonnet replaced. I'll adjust the rubber bumps for now and if there is still a problem after that I will get the bonnet alignment checked out.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
I turned my stops clockwise to fully lower them. Now the bonnet sits firmly with no give in the latch.
FYI, Finally sorted out the vibration problemat 2000rpm usually at higher speeds and only under load.
I have been told it is very common for Euros when they get on in K's. The problem is the inner joint on the drive shaft. I got mine replaced and cost me under $100 each end as I took them out and gave it to the CV joint specialist. Happy nowI don't have a vibration anymore as if my wheels were not bolted up tight:)
Another problem with euros with higher k's is a stretched timing chain which will give you rough idle and sometime fault codes.
Which CV joint specialist did you use? I think I have the vibration as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by flipmods
First Honda said it may be the shafts, then Hanny's who said the same thing, it also happens to S2000's. I took them out cause it was so dangerous and took it to A&L driveshafts in Campsie. He told me it is common on Euros and showed me where it was damaged after cleaning the grease out of the inner joint.
At first it was a small vibration and slowly got worse untill I couldn't even go uphill on freeways at normal speed, had to travel at 60klm and looked like a D!@k He@d.
Looks like I will have to get myself a spare set of driveshafts. :(
Mine is still minor, only at freeway speeds and it is very subtle in the form of steering wheel vibration. I have ridden in another Euro where the car goes BANGBANGBANGBANG once it exceeds a particular speed and strong throttle is applied.
Yes mine was like the other euro you were in.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
IS your vibration all the time or only when under load? If it is at a certain speed all the time it is most probably cause you need wheel balancing.
Mine is only under load. I will check again when I am at the racetrack, since the road is flatter there and less defective unlike Sydney roads.Quote:
Originally Posted by flipmods
I found this article that relates to the Accord v6. I'm sure the exhaust set up is different in the two cars, however, is it possible that a damaged or deformed exhaust pipe mounting bracket could be the culprit in our cars?
The 03-07 Euro does not have a mounting bracket. It has rubber hangers which connect in between 2 metal mounting rods.Quote:
Originally Posted by unity
But does it look similar to this without the bracket?Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng