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Find a good tuner and talk with them about your setup. 9 out of 10 times mechanics just get someone in to tune cars so find the "tuner" and talk with them. They will have their preferred ECUs and...

Just look at the tuning parameters in each system.. MoTeC will have alot more adjustable points for better idle, timing, fueling etc. That's why its more expensive.

Haltech dont have alot of...

i run Bosch 363s and had to modify the rail slightly to fit them.. There taller and required bigger o-ring and lifting of the rail. Not too hard to fit though

There is a huge difference between haltech and MoTeC.. If you happy to pay then go fo the motec hands down

Do you have a boost cut in the Microtech that's limiting your boost?

Awesome ECU! well worth the investment for complete management and other little benefits like launch control etc

2.5in with an xforce twin loop with no resonators bar the cat is very reasonable. Much quieter than a cannon muffler...

Does this apply to FRM sleeved blocks like the H-series motors also? I was under the impression that the FRM sleeves will not handle the additional friction from forged pistons.

i cant believe the car is running with the standard ECU. There are MAP sensors to put the car into limp mode if it sees positive pressure at the manifold. You should see those bloody chack valves...

Serious!?!?

If boost is 6-8psi that turbo will spin it easy and have power from go to woe. Might be too small for the bigger displacement hondas h22 h23 etc but for up to 2lt should be good fun...

i'd say your running out of fuel or the MAP sensor is cutting your power... Try Hondata, Autronic, motec, microtech etc etc for the full ECU replacements. There are also "chips" you can run with...

does that also mean stock pistons, rods, rings, headbolts etc etc or are you only referring to sleeves?

I remember the days where everyone was certain 7psi was MAX boost for a stock Honda but...

i have one and its set to 0sec cause it pisses me off.. don't waste ya money

I agree. Or you could piece up a BB GT28/40. these will come on real hard and push 30psi all the way to redline. A mate with a cosworth has this setup - it is unbelievable for a 2lt street car...

Are you saying you can happily push 20psi into a stock block as long as the tuning is right???? Maybe i should just wind up the boost!!:cool:

I hope you are referring to a motor that isn't...

Check the thermostat. You might want a cooler opening therno to help move heat quicker... My temps went up also but i changed the thermostat and it holds ok temp now

Blitz dual drive.. No probs

2.25in is the go for N/A

Superchargers are generally more beneficial for a hi-torque producing engine as the belts themselves draw energy to run. Ever wondered why v8s and large displacement 6s run them in comparison to...

I was under the impression the Prelude s model came with a f22 sohc engine. The H23 is from an Si

That is a recipe for disaster! I maxed my stock fuel pump and had 100% injector duty at 5000rpm on 4psi!! You might want to get the fuel system sorted ASAP!

I was refering to a complete aftermarket ECU and not Uberdata or Chrome or some crap. All i know is my car was fully tuned off boost and then i did a few on boost power runs to adjust ignition timing...

That's right. The H series have FRM sleeves (fibre reinforced material) and any forged piston will erode the sleeve. Darton sleeves and others are steel replacements that with-hold the piston wear....

ECUs are tuned for a given air/fuel mixture per RPM increment. the level of boost doesnt matter, if the car has more air at 4000rpm then the computer will match more fuel to keep the same stoich. ...

If that's the case then the Microtech will compensate via the fuel tables. If an aftermarket ECU is tuned - boost levels DO NOT MATTER. You can run 4psi or 14psi, the computer will increase the...