Ah, I kinda figured that's what you were going for :) But I would still say to go as wide as he can but keep a ratio due to the suspension setup (staggered). Or add a front sway and go non-staggered...
I think instead of explaining.. better to see what US AutoX champions use in stock class cars :) Even then they're going beyond the 225/255 setup you recommended with stock rims :p So if you have a...
I respectfully disagree. I'd recommend going as wide as possible more so on rim width. A number of local track go-ers are putting down good lap times on quite fat tyre/rim setups... Myself included...
I use Redline MT90 for the gearbox and Redline 75w90 NS for the diff (Mine is a clutch type diff though...)
Never had an issue. Did try using the hyped Mobil 1 stuff on the S2ki forums and that made...
That said, there are some quick track guys on BC coilovers too. Ultimately it boils down to preference and how much you're willing to spend.
Personally I like knowing I can get it serviced locally...
Rofl. Definitely KWs over BC, the main thing that will upset people is the stock spring rate that comes with the V3 kits. I think from memory they're around 10/9 or 9/8? Where the Clubsports are 1kg...
Heat is definitely the main culprit, but if you look at all cracked slotted rotors - the crack commonly begins from where the slots are :) Even on 2 piece rotors, it can start from the slots or where...
I would also be concerned... even larger tyre/rim combos shouldn't necessitate removal of the whole guard liner.
Torn liner may be more common but not missing :)
To clarify... lift-off oversteer is different to bumpsteer and like Hasbeen, I've never felt it either in a RWD. With that out of the way...
1. Apparently the rear toe curve on the AP1 is much more...
Blank RDA rotors + Project Mu HC+ and you're set :)
Imo spending money on stock rotors are a waste of money on a S2K. There's another thread somewhere on it but I cbf digging it up ahha. But hey...
Good post - to add, it appears that majority of the cracks appear on the outer face. I'm assuming this has something to do with the outside having better chance of cooler breeze, uneven pad pressure...
You'd hope that all channels/slots are in the cast and not post-fabrication! I would hope it's illegal to do so otherwise (although I hear of people machining the inner surface of their rims to...
Really? Maybe your EPS is throwing error codes? I've never heard anybody complain about the S2000 steering response... in fact all I've heard is praise...
http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/744832-why-do-s2k-rotors-crack-more-than-usual/
Knock yourself (yourselves?) out. Plenty more threads on this topic available too.
The main problem S2k rotors face is cracking. Slotted rotors only alleviate the problem. I would never recommend cross drilled either. Blank rotors are cheaper and will last longer typically :)
Unless you're regularly going track days (regular as in more than 8 times a year)/endurance racing AND driving the car to it's absolute limits... then maybe look...
Depends how bad the bushes are. If they're shredded and torn apart - I'd replace them. The lower control arm bushes affect castor, camber and toe (if my brain is working right). If there's free play...