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Not sure on the Accords, but try removing it and taking a good look. Think about it - it can't be that hard.

I've had T1R's and RE001's - The Bridgestones outperform the Toyo's with ease.

Toyo's will surely be cheaper though.

/thread.

Spray some lubricant between the hose and the fitting to loosen it up. Remove the fitting out of the hose by prying at it using a thin screwdriver.

Once it's out - glue it back on.

Yeah that sounds about right Vinny. My old EK4 was 26mm on the front.

Fixed :zip:



Ahh yes, i remember reading this now. GG.

Thanks again gents!

Looks like i'll be getting:

Unreal! Thanks Marko!

I take it, you'd remove those extension brackets on an EM1/EK4 then?

What'd you do for the front setup marko?

CHAMPION!!! Thanks Vinny.

Now - the question is... will an EK9 22mm Rear Sway fit up with the ASR brace on the CXi???

I guess we'd still need those brackets too then? Unless, you remove those...

Updated - Found more info from one of Gio's threads. Still uncertain about the rear subframe mount holes... hmmm.

After trying a Whiteline rear swaybar kit (supposedly from an EK1 GLI) I got another forumer, I attempted to fit it to my CXI... only to find out that it wouldn't fit due to the mounting holes on the...

Just a note - when using the dry lube be careful not to get any on the outer door/window garnish panels as they usually leave a greasy stain (like car polish does, but darker instead of...

ITR001: You need to re-initialise your windows' auto function. For some reason (flat battery?) its' lost the limit point 'memory'.

As WATAJK said; Hold the switch all the way up and window reaches...

You can test that your issue is the same as mine was by (using your hand) pressing on the clutch pedal (as you would with your foot), but add a bit of sideways pressure (towards the centre console)...

Is it something like this?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Us_xcv5eGlY

Or coming from the pedal itself?
...as described here: http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=121494

If it is...

Looked up on Whitline website and found the EG article documents you wrote Gary:

Links:
http://whiteline.com.au/images/articles/real_handling_32.jpg...

The specs on the ClubRSX link are relevant to Australia. Same OEM size wheels etc.



With those wheels you will have 14mm less clearance between the inside of the wheel and chassis/suspension...

I've never put coins in there either. It just holds my garage door remote :)



That'd be because I posted it on there aswell. :cake:

You can go without the camber kit, but you'll have increased tyre wear on the inner edges. You can help keep more even wear by rotating the tyres regularly, but again that will cost money every time...

I have a feeling the noise you're hearing is the clutch release/throw-out bearing chattering away.

Mine does this aswell.

Its a good idea to get a camber kit to help correct your wheel alignment. Once you lower it you will have excess negative camber.



Most places should only charge $300-$400.

Not the same issue on the DC5 mate. You could quite well be right on the fix for other cars with similar problems but not on the DC5 model.

Please note people: This is not a discussion on how to...

Ahh ok, moisture ingress - Lame.

Thanks mate.

Nice! I thought it would've been a wear and tear item (not covered).

What's wrong with the tail light?

What dealership do you go to?

Free tail light and engine mount?

Mount busted and still under warranty?



Yeah inside. I fixed the click.

What dealership did your mate take his Type-S and get the new gearbox?

Same here - different dealership though. Mine's still under extended warranty too!

Mine is a bit notchy from 1st into 2nd and 2nd into third. Also, at high revs in 3rd once the clutch is depressed...

I've managed to resolve the very common (at least on ClubRSX) clutch pedal clicking problem in the DC5-S clutch pedal assembly.

The issue being: A click noise heard and felt through the clutch...