ok so do i remove just the cap, or the whole dizzy to test coil?
im a bit noobish to this whole electronics thing but do i remove the coil from the dizzy to test?
or leave attached?
thanks
how do i know if its just the coil instead of the whole distributor.
the rotor works fine, thought it might have been a little dirty thats why it wasnt sparking..
perhaps someone has come across this problems also.
Just recently my car has shit itself
i.e cranking but not turning over.
i have a fresh battery in there, so i checked if its throwing...
if youre prepared to spend at least 6k on the complete engine plus labour..
then u have to do a brake upgrade kit etc etc...
u will most likely drive out 8-9k poorer...
look into aftermarket cams.?
crower cams are sick stage 2 i think?
correct me if im wrong b series guys..
heaps of NA tuning or u can slap a snail on the thing hehe
last tune i did with my setup with the d16 vtec, i was pulling the same as a stock b16 with catback, and the VAFC..
now with new mods, have to take it back to toda for a tune with the new headers,...
also, i'd go a hi flow cat converter.. like the big ****off stainless steel onez heh
yeh should be that ECU, if its a B16..
there are TONS of aftermarket parts for that engine man..
i was less...
need a beasty ass air intake.. get rid of the panel filter there and do a cold air intake setup
that will make the b16a go from growling to barking! LOL
