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I still haven't got round to it. Just been busy with work. maybe i'll do it a little later :)

Cheers for the info sangyz. I already have the full kit here off an N1 EK9 CTR :)

I believe its a personal preference. When hunting for an ITR 3 years ago, test drove both JDM DC2R and JDM DC5R. In my opinion, DC2R chassis is better but DC5R has a better engine with better...

I am aware of that.

If i change doors i need to think about colour matching to CW colour again. EK Manual window doors are a bit hard to track here as well. Everyone has the JDM car here so...

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p257/10KRPM/40978_1461329928199_1081972223_1330803_3817777_n.jpg
17X8 30 offset on front -1.5 camber
...

To create a replica of a genuine N1 EK9. Those EK9s are nearly impossible to buy even here but I've seen a few. They have wind up windows, different crank pulleys etc :)

Thanks for the feedback...

Bludger's point is spot on. Mugen thermostat only work to cool the engine down earlier than OEM during hard driving.

B16A2 for the win! Turbo D is fun too but you need to see what your goals are with the car, Drag, Track, Hillclimbs etc

Hi Guys,

I'm thinking of converting stock EK9 windows power windows to manual winding windows with N1 door cards and manual winder. I've look all round the internet to see if this can be done but...

No worries. If you want to get more serious with your track day events, i recommend Teins.

Depending. Everyone has different opinions... I believe doing a full VTEC conversion is cheaper and less hassle

Not only that. You need to buy an oil line to get LS VTEC running as B18B doesn't have this. You're better off turbo'ing a B18B because they can give some good output as well instead of doing a VTEC...

BCs came in 2 main models, BC Red and BC Gold. BC Gold is the newer ones and better build quality. Quite decent on track too.
I've had buddyclubs before and they aren't shit. Most people only buy...

Depends on what you want out of it.... If you want to go racing then you'd rather go with something else i.e. Teins, Ohlins, Bilsteins but for a street suspension, BC is more then sufficient

BC suppose to stand for Bor Chan or something like that. They're made in Taiwan but are pretty good none the less.

Awesome! DC4 B18B perfect for turbo! Better than going B18CR!

It possibly could be some rattles in the car itself. All the hondas i've owned seem to have rattled so much it's not funny

Super DA9, on your first post you did say it sounds like it's coming from the engine/gearbox area and then you said it sound like it's from the passenger side??? The engine/gearbox area is on the...

Definitely runs on ITBs! Sounds beautiful

I've learnt that you're better off sticking with stock intake + airbox if you want to daily your car. My opinion anyways..

To add, like everyone says here, do handling. Nearly everything of an ITR will go into your car and that's a good start to make your car handle better. Op for 98 spec parts as honda has revised the...

I never said boosted B series is slow either. Boosted B is super quick! I don't want to sound all big. I am no mechanic nor am i an engineer but I've been through many vtec motors and that when you...

Unboosted D, yes. Boosted D Series isn't that slow to be honest

I think everyone has a different perception on everything. Im going to br building a D Series turbo shortly. If you wanna stay NA i'd say go B but if you want to go boost, stick with D :)

I'm getting a D15 this week. Then thinking of working on that and buying another D16 block and mate the 2 together and add boost. I wont put it onto my EK. Im thinking of buying an EF CRX shell