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Awesome thanks for the reply! It's my mates car. He has done the rear sway bar aswell.

I'm under the assumption "FR" stands for "front right". Which obviously having 2 of them won't work.

Front end links are bolted in correctly, yet the brackets with the bushings won't line up to the appropriate holes? They both saw 'FR' on them, does this mean that I need to replace one with a FL...

100% goto a shop with a 4 wheel alignment machine will fix your problem.

What do you mean a "proper" alignment? Are you just doing your alignment: at home? Have a look at your tie rod ends and also your drive shafts for any leaks or excessive play in them.

Gruppe M and Mugen twinloop is a great sound together ^_^, the car handles better at stock height and the stock suspension is great! So I wouldn't say Coilovers is much needed[emoji4][emoji4]

What is the plan for the car? Do you plan on tracking the car? Or just street/spirited driving?

I'm assuming 10k without on road tax's ?

Are you planning on road registering it?

Can get the stuff from autobarn etc....

Heat wrap them m8

Hello

J's racing.

I like dis.

Function7 rear subframe bar. Stiffen the rear up real well.

Carbing front strut tower brace. J'sracing rear strut tower brace and j's racing c pillar brace. Made the car feel extremely solid. A rear subframe brace is a good upgrade aswell. I run a Function7...

Why wouldn't you put the wider wheels on the front? Lol...

Not enough polo.

Universal alignment

Yes it's safe to drive to the alignment shop lol.

Ahh I see lol

No I did not say that lol

I will agree with you on building a bottom end in the side and doing it right once. Most people don't usually want todo that and wait and build over time. Putting a k24 block is easiest way to make...

once again your opinion. And I respect it.

Well mate that's your opinion.
Money wise going k24 is cheaper. I'm sure if you take that into account the k24 would be a better option. How much do 2.4 blocks go for? I've seen good ones go for...