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Straight from the Hondata website

"OBD1 ECU with integrated OBD2A or OBD2B connector"

The p28 is an OBD1 ECU with a generic OBD2 connecter fitted so if there are no pins in the B plugs all is OK. They do it this way so they can use the same connecter for OBD2a and OBD2b just pin it...

If the problem wasn't happening before why dont you just put the original parts back on your car?

yes it will run for a split second until you let go of the key. Just follow the DIY kings guide and make sure if you have alarm you hook it up the same way.

If its your ignition switch your dash lights wont come on in the ON position, they will only come on in the START position. You will also be able to get the car to run if you find the sweet spot...

Yup the auto mounting bracket on the chassis is different to the manual, you need to reposition the bracket or use this mount.

This may sound stupid but have you adjust the valve clearances?

i bet the earth for the fuel pump has been left disconnected

What ITBs are your using?

yes you will need to do an obd1 conversion then you can use hondata, neptune etc.

Sound like the choke assy or as Honda call it a thermal wax valve opener.

Repco sell universal ones, you just need to solder the original plug on to it.

As ECU-MAN said check your main relay. Normally if you ignition components fail they die for ever, the only exception is the coil may play up a little then die but normally they also just die.

If you remove the IACV and dont adjust your cold start value in the ROM you will foul your plugs everytime you start it from cold.

http://www.edgeautomotive.com.au/images/ECU%20type%20small.JPG

Compare your ECU to the picture.

If the joint is spinning on the shaft more than likely the shaft will be stuffed so best to get a changeover complete driveshaft or a secondhand one.

The dual carbs do actually have ECUs. As ECU-MAN try unplugging the IAVC although i usally leave them connected but just block the up. If that fails you will most likely have to replace the choke...

I have done it many times and havent had a problem to date

Because the nut is the same size as the original drain hole it doesnt make a difference.

just remove your sump and weld (brazing works best) a nut with the same thread to the sump over the drain hole.

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31796

pull your brake light globes out and take a look, sounds like the filaments on 1 of them have melted and are touching each other.

Have a look at your car, if the nut thats not in the pic is the same as the others its all good but if its shorter it need to be changed with right hand 1 in the pic.

If they have to gear to work on A/Cs it shouldn't be to hard for them to do as long as that's the only problem. Shouldn't be to bad to drive but best to get it fixed. Also looking at the pic the...

Your A/C won't work with out it. On the bracket there should be 2 taller nuts and 1 shorter nut, the 2 taller nuts should be on the engine bracket and the shorter nut should be on the engine mount....