good idea to hold dizzy by metal base rather than plastic cap while adjusting it & the motors running,will stop u inadvertantly finding any cracks in the cap the nasty way.
but i realise u were just...
hey beez...
just quietly....
see the little arrow on the head of the inductive clamp u put on the spark lead?
it should be pointing towards the spark plug....
go recheck your timing.....
dizzy base tells the ecu what the mechanical motor timing is via the TDC & CKP sensors in the base.CYP sensor just tells the ecu which cylinder needs attention by indicating No1 cylinder.
base...
yes,just move the circlip to a lower groove to lower the height,there usually only like a 15-25mm drop range on the yellows.
middle groove will prob be how u will receive the shock,they should work...
the stalling issue is secondary & only happen if your really trying,the main one is the fuel overrun concerning economy & emissions.
not entirely sure how they do it these days without a dashpot,but...
dashpot is to limit the effects of fuel overrun on sudden quick closing of the throttle for economy & emissions purposes.
the only other thing u risk by removing it is stalling the motor,by suddenly...
yes,with stock springs & perches,the middle circlip position on the shock body usually will be stock height.
if your changing springs at same time,then u will have to work out the height diff...
its generally about the 0.5V closed>>>> 4.5V WOT range.
be good idea to consult the service manual for your particular motor u want to "calibrate"
i just use a data-logger...
your firing 'Before"-TDC.
if u want to advance,u need to fire even more BTDC which equals greater degree BTDC.
so yes 14deg btdc is advance
anywhere 10-14 is fine.
gonna be a hell lot better than...
prob all those multiple sparks at low rpm is messing with all the excess fuel off the banked injectors....
good ol' Y4....
u can tell its one of my fave motors,cant ya beez...
best timing for a Y4 is full advance,
twist the dizzy as far as it will possibly go.
go fill up with the cheapest,lowest octane fuel u can find.
then go out & give it a good belting & dont let up...
cold motor wont matter much for the purpose of a comp test,as long as u can crank the motor to test its health than u should be ok.
consistent testing is the key between cylinders & easy enough to...
also,living in australia,mostly at sea level & honda induction & exhaust systems being fairly efficient already from the factory,i doubt the vac gauge will be much use to u in finding any better...