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  1. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gio View Post
    Wow man thanks for the post, some great info there.
    No Problems. The very reason why these forums exist .
    >> Now Known as "Phased"

  2. #14
    <e240 Edit: no need lah - keep it civil>

    The Ground Control kit is brilliant. I can adjust the height every day, and swap out springs at my leisure. My Koni's are a stiff as the day I installed them and I've absolutely no doubt as stiff as they day they are sold. I would recommend Koni/GC to anyone who is serious about getting into the depths of FWD handling (and it gets very deep).
    Last edited by e240; 22-10-2008 at 04:57 PM.

  3. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by string View Post
    ALL Springs are preloaded the instant you drop the car onto it's suspension.

    KYB and Tokico are garbage shocks if you are after performance - of course they're not recommended for anything but low spring rates.

    Once you go linear springs, you'll never look back.
    Definantly don't doubt you there...I would prefer linear springs...but when I was first looking into suspension comfort and longetivety were of more importance at the time.

    I don't really know where you substantiate your comment on KYB...I have to admit my experience with Tokico has been quite average...but my KYB shocks have been great...it would be good to independantly adjust the compression / rebound but honestly...i barely drive my car hard and its used on the street...Not really too fussed.

    A mate has KYB Coilovers with 5Zigen springs and another mate has KYB Shocks with linear springs and both are VERY VERY strong performers...his coilovers have done at least 40,000 and would have to be sporting rates no less than 10kg/mm. Which is already on the border line of what Koni Yellows are valved for.

    Also as said many of times...if you were serious about FWD handling buy a set of genuine BC/Fightex/Zeal coilovers coupled with good swaybars...and call it a day NO Spring/Damper combo will match to a proper Coilover setup that is specifically engineered for performance and reliability.

    LOL at dick waving...i wasn't the one who bought emotion into it, remember?

    I apolgize for the rushed typing but I am in the middle of removing my intake manifold lol
    Last edited by Sp00ny; 22-10-2008 at 04:44 PM.
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  4. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by string View Post
    Look. I'm not going to get into a dick waving contest with you.

    The Ground Control kit is brilliant. I can adjust the height every day, and swap out springs at my leisure. My Koni's are a stiff as the day I installed them and I've absolutely no doubt as stiff as they day they are sold. I would recommend Koni/GC to anyone who is serious about getting into the depths of FWD handling (and it gets very deep).
    I was looking into the exact kit when I was buying suspension...would be interesting to know how it handles on the street. Are your spring rates the same both front and rear?
    >> Now Known as "Phased"

  5. #17
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    So anyway i have 2 options at the moment.

    Skunk2 shocks with skunk2 progressive springs

    OR

    KYB shocks with skunk2 progressive springs
    Anyone selling a black ek1 facelift Hood (OEM)?? PM ME


  6. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gio View Post
    So anyway i have 2 options at the moment.

    Skunk2 shocks with skunk2 progressive springs

    OR

    KYB shocks with skunk2 progressive springs
    I have driven on both the KYB AGX and Koni Yellows (same as string) and personally the Koni's are a more solid performer and have nice rebound response. However, they are more expensive usually depending on the dealer.

    I would purchase KYB over Skunk2 I have heard many problems with the skunk2's quality HOWEVER it is all hearsay...not personal experience.
    >> Now Known as "Phased"

  7. #19
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    Yeah thats what im thinking, KYB do have a better rep.
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  8. #20
    I have 400lb front springs and 500lb rear springs, and a Whiteline 22mm rear sway-bar. I quite like the balance, but in the end it all comes down to the driver. It's so easy to think a car understeers when in actual fact it's probably just the driver's hack inputs.

  9. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gio View Post
    Yeah thats what im thinking, KYB do have a better rep.
    I forget what the KYB AGX's were valved to handle linear spring rate wise...When i purchased my set-up it was with the intention of doing over 500kms a week however i got a new job very quickly so my car doesnt get driven anywhere near what it used to lol. Wouldn't mind getting Spoon Straights but after I get rims/Tyres.

    My car is lowered probebly just at the level you want it with my current setup...but what i would recommend is do some research and email the companies and get actual specifications on what they are built to handle.

    There are no rub marks at all so when i corner nothing rubs....so im not quite sure i have experienced what string is referring to when he is talking about when your car is that low it is definant understeer. However I can see where he is coming from.

    Spring Rates wise if you want comfort as it sounds like, i probebly wouldnt recommend going higher than 6kg/mm max progressive or about 4-5kg/mm linear. Again depends on your impression of "comfort", i prefer a stiffer car...makes you feel connected to the road...who cares what my passengers think xD
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  10. #22
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    i want performace i dont care about comfort atm
    Anyone selling a black ek1 facelift Hood (OEM)?? PM ME


  11. #23
    Well if you want to keep all 4 tyres the same size, then the only way to get good rotation out of a FWD is to start upping the rear stiffness. Big rear swaybar is a start. Do that first IMO. There's no point doing heaps of mods at once unless you just want to show off - the car will be much faster than the driver.

  12. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by string View Post
    Well if you want to keep all 4 tyres the same size, then the only way to get good rotation out of a FWD is to start upping the rear stiffness. Big rear swaybar is a start. Do that first IMO. There's no point doing heaps of mods at once unless you just want to show off - the car will be much faster than the driver.
    True. You'll find 90&#37; of cars (even my own) have handling capabilities beyond that of the owners driving capabilities...some its a choice, some just aren't skilled enough or don't push there car for safety reasons.

    As string suggests...install a larger rear swaybar first then start getting into springs/shocks. As for strut bars etc. I find that they don't directly help handling but make the car noticably more predictable and stable which increases driver's confidence and control.

    Don't forget suspension/swaybars are nothing without grip...make sure you opt for at least some "semi-decent tyres" (eg. Bridgestone RE001, Yokohama S-Drives, Hankook RS2, Toyo T1R/S etc). Otherwise alot of it will be lost through poor ground contact.
    Last edited by Sp00ny; 22-10-2008 at 08:24 PM.
    >> Now Known as "Phased"

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