compression ratio vs boost psi

[IEVAQ8]

again, im not dissing ur tuiner/builder..............

but with the correct fuel and a tuner that knows our hondas well, u can run very high timing in a honda with high comp and low boost and still have that drivability (very little lag) and big power.....

[ZeForce]

Higher compression = less timing (assumeing useing pump fuel). Timing is what makes you power.

I cannot agree with this statement..... when you advance the ignition timing you are making the engine compress a burning (rapidly expanding) mixture and hence it is actually doing NEGATIVE work. Of course, you will always need to ignite the mixture before TDC to ensure maximum amount of the fuel/air is combusted before the piston reaches BDC however more timing isnt always better. Im sure everyone will have their 2cents to say about it, but producing more power from less timing is ideal in my books.

[Sexc86]

A tuner is a tuner ... not a miricle worker. Not matter how good they are they cant stop the physics of premature ignition.

Zeforce - Cylinder pressure and power output dont go hand in hand.

[Blue]

Its been said but in summary

low CR & higher boost = you keep your motor for longer but your car drives a lil bit more like a pig off boost, but hey if you spend the money you can run big boost numbers intermittently if you so wish to save fuel.

hi CR low boost = Your car drives fine off boost, then you get greedy and end up feeding too much boost through the motor and you blowing something through either winding the wick or bad batch of fuel which lets face it is the luck of the draw in most cases.

[FastFwd]

Either way if you want to go low CR and higher boost in the long run just do what i did. Run it hi CR and low boost for as long as you can and then if some thing happens then rebuild it.

Personally for street use in my opinion Hi CR and low boost is much nicer.

[Blue]

yeah but some dont have the cash, this is a big thing left out of discussion, (for obvious reasons)

it always comes down to your budget and your power figure goal, this will ultimately determine which way you go,

unless you have neither and are just squeezing your engine hoping nothing breaks LOL

[FastFwd]

Well if your strapped for the cash then personally you do it right the first time or you dont do it at all.

Having a turbo car that was originally NA isnt as easy and jamming a turbo setup on, tuning it and on ya go. It puts alot of stress on the motor and little things start to break aspecially when the car is 10+ years already things prematurely fail which means money and if you dont have it then Its not something to start playing around with.

[Blue]

says the wise man - look this is going off topic so I will not argue,

Regards,

[FastFwd]

all smiles here

[Blue]

here too

[IEVAQ8]

Either way if you want to go low CR and higher boost in the long run just do what i did. Run it hi CR and low boost for as long as you can and then if some thing happens then rebuild it.

Personally for street use in my opinion Hi CR and low boost is much nicer.

i agree with u completely.........

and if people dont have the cash to do it properly the first time or to budget for breakages, then they shouldnt be doing any mods at all.........

[FastFwd]

i agree with u completely.........

and if people dont have the cash to do it properly the first time or to budget for breakages, then they shouldnt be doing any mods at all.........

Yup...stick with your safe Bolt-on NA mods if you have a little cash to play with but if your not prepared for a random rebuild then dont go boost.

Random Rebuilds seam to come more often than i would like