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  1. #25
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Point Cook, VIC
    Car:
    EK1 CXI
    ^^^ i was only helping out in saying to make sure the other car is staged and ready........

  2. #26
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    NSW
    Car:
    the non-honda type
    Well thats a no brainer really...

  3. #27
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Point Cook, VIC
    Car:
    EK1 CXI
    ^^^ u never no sometimes.............

    im not saying ur a no brainer LYLE, im referrign to others who may read this and not realise...............

  4. #28
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Sydney - Cabramatta/Liver
    Car:
    Jazz EVO IX
    thanks heaps i'll give it a go. Never knew about this one.

    Quote Originally Posted by RICER23Q View Post
    1. Stage
    2. Put car into gear
    3. Pull handbrake up, but leave your finger on the button
    4. Bring revs upto desired amount for the launch
    5. Pull the clutch out to the friction point where it is just grabbing and the car wants to move forward, but not too forward for the car to move over the beams, thus pre-loading it.
    6. When lights go green, pull down handbrake and go
    Evo IX - THE FINAL EVOLUTION

  5. #29
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Inner West
    Car:
    Rachel & Renee
    pre loading ftw!
    Coup De Grace / Rachel

    Built by Backyard Performance
    JDMyard / Autobarn Bankstown / Accurate Brake and Clutch Lidcombe / Performance Exhaust Northmead

  6. #30
    preloading is the best way to ruin you clutch , so if you're ready to spend $$ on numerous clutch kits go ahead, yes the preloading method seems to work well because you dont lose traction as much and you get a nice 'zippy' start.

    But for the best way to achieve good times and not have your clutch sh it itself within a few runs is finding the perfect line between maximum rpm and traction when you dump the clutch. It is very difficult to get traction this way on street tyres, but the most effective and least damaging to your clutch. If you run stickies you will have no problem with this and will get the best 60 ft, Especially if you are using launch control.

    preloading = fail is the main point
    Last edited by markoJEK1; 07-02-2009 at 02:26 PM.

  7. #31
    Account Disabled Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    CT9A
    preloading ftw

  8. #32
    Account Disabled Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Garage
    And is dumping the clutch helps the life of a clutch?

  9. #33
    Either way both methods will work within moderation, excess of either will cause future problems as I see it, I was simply taking advice from someone whos had alot of experiance on the strip

  10. #34
    Ozhonda Trader Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Sydney.
    Car:
    EGK24A
    Each to their own.
    Its all depends on what will work for you and your car set up.
    JDMyard Pty Ltd
    25 / 317-321 Woodpark Rd , Smithfield , NSW 2164. Contact : 02 97572364
    Email : yonas@jdmyard.com , Facebook : http://www.facebook.com/JDMYard
    www.JDMyard.com

  11. #35
    Account Disabled Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Garage
    this is how i see it..

    If your on street tyres... pre-loading is a good technique. You'll want to pre-load around 3000-4000rpm depending on how much power you have. Pre-loading will reduce axle tramps and lower those 60ft. Try it next time it might help

    If your on slicks, you'll need to dump the clutch

  12. #36
    Yeah I agree to that theory

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