equal 1st - new front speakers. great if yours are crap. something like focal access that has a high sensitivity and run ok off only head unit power but have much better sound quality.
equal 1st - new head unit. great your speakers already aren't too bad sounding. has a better in built amplifier to power existing speakers louder and may have mp3, usb etc features that are very handy. also those with inbuilt crossovers can be used to power existing speakers cleaner by removing bass that the stock speakers cannot reproduce.
(quick dictionary highpass - removes low freq. only letting ones higher that a set point pass. low pass - the opposite of highpass)
2nd - 4 channel amp. powers front and rear speakers. more power = louder. crossover built into the amp can again be used to remove bass that the small diameter speakers cannot reproduce. rough guide highpass 6-6.5" speakers around 80hz, 4" 150hz and 6x9 60-70hz. a higher cut is less bass but louder volumes can be played without distortion.
3rd - sub. run off rear channels of the 4 channel amp. you want to low pass the sub around the same point that you high pass the speakers at to achieve a equal response across the freq. range. eg low pass sub at 70hz high pass fronts at 80hz. the small gap is good as the volume after the cut hz drops off slowly so by spacing them slightly allows them to blend.
(system so far - headunit, front speakers, sub and 4 ch amp - this alone would sound very good)
4th - dedicated mono block sub amp. mono blocks are more suited for subwoofer duties as they can produce more power. use the freed up rear channel on the amp to power the rear speakers.
equal 5th (more sound quality) - better front speakers again (pick the best you want to go as this is what you will have in the end! buy once right here and buy once) depending on the power needs you may want to choose to bridge the 4 ch into these speakers of use it to run active (very advanced). put your current fronts into the rear off of head unit power.
equal 5th (for the doof doof bass head) - another matching sub and sub amp for total bass craziness. high pass your rears higher and turn them up louder. will wreck the sounds stage but definitely give you a club in your car!
everything bought is used again so plan plan plan. eg. my last car ended up with
eclipse CD7100 HU
Focal K2P fronts
Focal Access rears (from front)
Eclipse 4ch (was used as like explained)
2x Alpine mono blocks (started as one)
2x Alpine type r 12's (started as one)
it was loud and clear.
this is all IN MY OPINION
maybe worth a sticky so noobs can plan out a stereo more effectively?
Last edited by 55EXX; 08-01-2009 at 09:18 PM.
Is this the end of my car modding days? Buying a house says so...
55EXX, thanks for your opinion actually this thread for me to tell people that they can have a very good SQ set-up with only a bottom line model from FOCAL,
honestly when I was competing in the SQ contest a long time back my system always run full active but people need a lot of money to run a full active set-up,
I can do $20,000 set-up but who will spend that much money for system this days, I know some people out there still does it,
thats why $1,500 set-up I think its more affordable for everyone
the tweeter reflecting off the windscreen is a black art many get wrong and don't know. a dominant pro sq competitor tried this method and was not happy with it in any reflecting position as glass can often give bad reflections.
i myself have had the focal k2p tweets which are alot less harsh than others in the focal range and i still found the reflections to increase overall harshness and inaccuracy.
larger diameter soft domes i have come to love.
Is this the end of my car modding days? Buying a house says so...
why so many people so worry about the tweeter placement, I can guarantee 99% of you can't even tell where is the tweeter located in someone with a good SQ set-up in theirs car IF you enter the car with your eyes close then you just sit and listening to the music .............
very nice install there mate!
whats the SQ like on the SOLID amps compared to the FP series amps? considering these amps to run active/semi for my front stage.
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