Diy 5 lug conversion - helpful write up

[damo46]

Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!


Original Source http://www.hybridautomotive.com/tech/5lug/


5 Lug Conversion

TOOLS NEEDED
*tool box with socket set, and all main tools, e.g plyers, hammer, etc
* Stands x4 for the car or a hoist if you can use
* Hydraulic Jack
*Time and Patience
* Breaker Bar/ rattle gun
* Complete 5 lug conversion from type r, knuckle/hub, calipers,rotors,control arms, trailing arms, etc..
*Handyman or friend to help in some parts
*Thats pretty much all off the top of my head

The first, and often most challenging part of this upgrade is to source the necessary parts. Expect to pay between $1500.00 and $2000.00 for the complete suspension and wheels/tires from a wrecked Type R. Sometimes you can find partial suspensions for less, as I did. When doing this modification to your Civic, it pays to be patient. Five lug conversion packages aern't avaliable that often. So when you do find one, be ready to get it quick!

You can piece this entire assembly together using new, OEM parts if you wish. However you cannot do this without spending a LOT more money compared to getting it off a Type R. The reason why it is much more expensive to buy the necessary components for a five lug conversion is in the rear suspension. Although the physical trailing arm is identical to that of a normal Integra, the spindle is different.

The track on a Type R is 10mm wider than that any other Integra. This results in the wheels being pushed out another 5mm on all corners compared to a non Type R. This means the rear spindle needs to be 5mm longer as well. So you would have to buy the entire rear trailing arm assembly to get the proper spindle. This drives the cost way up. Therefore, it is much less expensive to simply get the parts off a wrecked Type R.




What you will need

First the front. The minimum you will need is the front knuckle/hub assembly from a Type R. Hopefully it will come with the calipers and rotors, as mine did. If not, you can use the calipers from a 91-97 Accord Wagon and rotors from a 97+ Prelude. Note: You can reuse your Civic front upper control arms if necessary. However if the Type R upper control arms are included, you may want to use those for the stiffer/newer bushings.

For the rear you will need the trailing arm assembly from a Type R. This should include the rear calipers and rotors as well. The rear caliper is the same as a GSR caliper. The main difference with the Type R calipers are the caliper brackets, they space the calipers .75" farther out to clear the 10.25" rotors. It is unknow if the rotor is similar to any other model Honda.



If you are changing from rear drums you will also need new parking brake cables (from any Integra) and new brake lines. However if you already have 4 wheel disk brakes, you should be able to use your old brake lines and e brake cables. I installed Steel Braided brake lines as part of the change over process.

You will also need a one inch master cylendar & booster from any 94+ Integra as well as a '4040' 4 wheel disk proportioning valve. These can be found from any 92-95 Civic Si or a 92-93 Integra. Be sure to get the one that has '4040' stamped on it. The '3030' proportioning valve is for a front disk, rear drum setup and will not work safely on a Civic with 4 wheel disk brakes.


The Process
First you'll need to remove the old suspension components. Start by draing the old Master cylinder.




To break down the front suspension you want to start by removing the axle nuts. This is not as easy as you would think. A rattle gun makes this much easier.

Once the axle nuts have been removed, remove the brake line from the calipers. If you are replcing the brake lines along with the knuckles, you'll need to remove the brake lines from where they attach to the chassis hardlines. Then remove the three castle nuts which secure the knuckle to the car. Once you have done this you can break the ball joints loose and remove the knuckles.

For the rear, remove the brake lines first. Then go inside the car and detach the parking brake cables from the parking brake lever. Pull the cables out of the cabin from underneath the car. This involves removing the exhaust and rear heat shields. There are are three 10mm bolts per side which secure the e brake cables as they snake back to the corners. Remove those as well.

At this point you are ready to remove the trailing arm assembly. Simply unblolt it from the lower comtrol arm, the upper control arm, the frame, and the tie rod. Once you do this the whole assembly will fall off the car.




Now reattach the front and rear 5 lug suspension in the opposite order as removal. If you are new to this, it might be a good idea to do one side start to finish so you have the other side as a reference.



Once the suspension is complete, It's time to replace the master cylinder and booster. You cannot change the stock 13/16" master cylinder for the 1" model without changing the booster as well. The bolt pattern between the two is different. So you will need to swap them as a pair.

You will need to cut and re-flare one of the brake hardlines in order to do this. The hardline that needs to be re flared and bent runs from the master cylendar the proportioning valve. Once you have removed the old master cylinder, cut the flare off the end of the line. Then remove the flare nut. You will need the larger flare nut from the Integra master cylendar, so be sure to get that with when you buy the master cylinder.

I installed the new master cylinder and booster before bending the hard line. Once I had bent the line and everything lined up properly, I removed the master cylinder again and re flared the hardline. This is not easy so try to find a friend who knows how to do it, or practice a lot on some extra pipe. It's not that hard to do, just takes a little practice. Once this is done, you should be able to re-attach the hard line to both the master cylinder and proportioning valve while retaining a nice, clean OEM look.


Once you've replaced the master cylinder and booster, you will need to replace the proportioning valve. Be sure to get a special 10mm "pipe wrench" as a normal open ended wrench can strip the flare nuts real easy. It looks like a closed wrench, but with one side cut out. Definetly a worthwile investment when doing this project!


One this is all done, refill the brake lines. Bleed your brakes thuroughly, and check for leaks. Then put on your new wheels and get take it for a test drive. Be sure to be easy on the car at first so you don't smash into a wall if your brakes fail. That would be a bad thing :-)


The braking differnece is amazing. If I wanted to, I could instantly lock the wheels at any speed. The pedal feel is great with the larger MC/booster and the steel lines. The amount of braking power is unbelieveable. I never have to worry about the person in front of me out breaking me. I often have to check the car behind me to make sure I am not overbreaking on them.





The feeling of control and confidence is much higher compared to the old brakes. I can actually feel the friction between the rotors and pads since installing the steel lines. I can go through corners and turns much faster and brake much later. It makes driving the car so much more fun.

I highly reccomend this modification for your Civic!


HOPE YOU LIKED THE DIY .. JUST FOLLOW ALL THE STEPS AND YOU SHOULDNT HAVE ANY PROBLEMS AS I DIDn't..WHY HIRE OR GET A MECHANIC WHEN ANY OF US CAN DO IT WITH THE RIGHT EQUIPTMENT/TOOLS!!!.

I WILL POST PICTURES ASAP OF MINE...

(Thanks to Jimidy and Kiki for 5 lug conversion parts. Cheers)


Original Source http://www.hybridautomotive.com/tech/5lug/

[votek]

nice write up. thanks for that

[ECU-MAN]

this is not your DIY

add the OZ Honda disclaimer and the source from where you copied this from or your post will be removed.

[tiksie]

As ECU-MAN said, show respect to whoever did the writeup..

[damo46]

I never stated that this was my write up!! I just posted it up as its my first post for something in the diy to try help people... I Found it and achknowledged it so other could have the same help as i did so appreciate it... And lastly i didnt know i had to put down whos write up it is... its actually been given to me by a mate which i followed.. I dont know or cant source where it came from.. I just posted it for help as it was a excellent guide for me... So dont go bragging about whats what.. Relax and appreciate it...

[damo46]

this is not your DIY

add the OZ Honda dosclaimer and the source from where you copied this from or your post will be removed.

Where and when did i state that this was "MY WRITE UP/ DIY"... Dont assume or talk before you know things man.. im jsut trying to help Dude..
Sorry if i crossed the rules but i didnt know i had to achknowledge others write ups as i read the points rules but didnt see nothing about it.. i must have missed it!

Also I dont know where the source came from it was given to me by a mate along time ago when i had plans to do it but never got around to doing it untill now.. my mate is no longer living in Australia.. hes overseas....
Cheers

[ECU-MAN]

You dont seem to understand,

Forum rules are rules, you have to follow them. You cant take someone elses work and post it here without acknowlaging the original source, regardless weather you claim it to be yours or not

you have also been asked to add the disclaimer.

I know your intentions are good, and its the best for our forum to have this info, but rules are rules. you have another chance to fix this thread or it will be deleted. also no need to get wise with me over it either.

read the link below

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5584

[cymax]

You don't really need to remember the link to the website. You can google it base on what you copied and pasted. I only used this as my search "The first, and often most challenging part of this upgrade is to source the necessary parts" and I got this as top of the link
http://www.hybridautomotive.com/tech/5lug/

Take this URL and post it as part of the OH disclaimer. Don't make the moderator's and your life hard. There's a purpose for them to do all this. They are trying to protect your arse if anyone going to follow this DIY that you posted.

Just my 2 cents.....

[MikeyG]

wow instead of saying thats nice, people are going to use this.. you guys are bagging him casue of what.. internet rights??

stfu he didnt state that it was his and IF YOU WANT TO READ he stated that his friend gave him the info years back and doesnt know the source.

By theory its his DIY casue no one can find the original, he doesnt know the source. so theres a +1 rep for u

[damo46]

You dont seem to understand,

Forum rules are rules, you have to follow them. You cant take someone elses work and post it here without acknowlaging the original source, regardless weather you claim it to be yours or not

you have also been asked to add the disclaimer.

I know your intentions are good, and its the best for our forum to have this info, but rules are rules. you have another chance to fix this thread or it will be deleted. also no need to get wise with me over it either.

read the link below

Man i allready explained my self that im sorry and that i did not see the rules to add the diclaimer!.. I added it now so its up.. Im not trying to get wise mate im just stating what i had said.. I have rights too!
Anyways its all sorted now i added the link thanks to the other guy
Sorry for any inconveniences i caused


http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5584

You don't really need to remember the link to the website. You can google it base on what you copied and pasted. I only used this as my search "The first, and often most challenging part of this upgrade is to source the necessary parts" and I got this as top of the link
http://www.hybridautomotive.com/tech/5lug/

Take this URL and post it as part of the OH disclaimer. Don't make the moderator's and your life hard. There's a purpose for them to do all this. They are trying to protect your arse if anyone going to follow this DIY that you posted.

Just my 2 cents.....

Hey man thanks for your input i appreciate it but like i said and stated at the top was that i now inderstand what has to be done when taking other source but i firstly didnt have the link and like i said i read the policy but i didnt or must have missed the section about achknowledging people... Its my first time posting in the DIY section so please be aware that people will make mistakes...
Thanks anyways .. the links added

wow instead of saying thats nice, people are going to use this.. you guys are bagging him casue of what.. internet rights??

stuff he didnt state that it was his and IF YOU WANT TO READ he stated that his friend gave him the info years back and doesnt know the source.

By theory its his DIY casue no one can find the original, he doesnt know the source. so theres a +1 rep for u

Hey man.. thanks alot for your support.. i appreciate it but i cant do much now.. i said what i said to state my position and that im sorry but yeah.. My only intention to submit this thread was to help all ozhonda people and maybe try get a point or two... anyways thanks again mate
cheers

[bubblecivic]

Would a 5 stud from a Odyssey 95 model work?

[damo46]

Im not to sure on that.. hopefully soem one more experienced can answer that.. But what can be used from my experience is stated in the thread..