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  1. #25
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    Quote Originally Posted by interfooler View Post
    Guys stick back to topic please. This thread is about engine oil for Honda vehicles.

    Is Castrol Magnetic any good?
    Just search and you'll find all the answers. Search using "engine oil*". It needs the asterisk to work because there is a 4 letter limit.

    I've said this in 3 other threads, and I'll say it here again, magnatec became rough at the 7000km mark in my car, which was driven normally back then.
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    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  2. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by bennjamin View Post
    Just keep consistent on servicing and your engine will never develop any 'sludge".
    Some engines sludge up no matter how often the oil is changed, e.g. Toyota engines (among others) are notorious for it. Honda engines aren't, at least they seem not to be and I've never heard of it being a chronic problem.

  3. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by JohnL View Post
    Some engines sludge up no matter how often the oil is changed, e.g. Toyota engines (among others) are notorious for it. Honda engines aren't, at least they seem not to be and I've never heard of it being a chronic problem.
    seen a good few older bmw engines with this issue too.



    whoops back on topic use honda FEO and chane it with new stuff every 5000ks

  4. #28
    sorta off topic but i've found magnatec 10w40 burns a little more than my current oil, motul semi-syn 10w40

    with magnatec i had to top up around 550ml per 1000km...with the motul so far i'm burning less at just under 400ml/1000km
    Last edited by migoreng; 16-02-2009 at 09:11 PM.

  5. #29
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    VTi-R
    Honda FEO 10W/30. By honda for honda

  6. #30
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    Sydney
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    Chloe
    Quote Originally Posted by cVc_eK4 View Post
    Honda FEO 10W/30. By honda for honda
    More like By Caltex for Honda.
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    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  7. #31
    I got into an argument over engine oil.

    I wanted to buy the Magantec 10-40 for my 94 Accord Exi but was told as it has done over 100k I should get 20-50. I ended up getting Valvoline 20-50 but could I have still gone with 10-40?

  8. #32
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    Sydney
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    Chloe
    Quote Originally Posted by repeated_love View Post
    I got into an argument over engine oil.

    I wanted to buy the Magantec 10-40 for my 94 Accord Exi but was told as it has done over 100k I should get 20-50. I ended up getting Valvoline 20-50 but could I have still gone with 10-40?
    If you have always used 10w-40 without issues like oil burning, then there's no reason to go to 20w-50. Having said that, 20w-50 is fine for summer but I would prefer a 15w-50 for winter instead (Shell Helix plus)
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    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  9. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by repeated_love View Post
    I got into an argument over engine oil.

    I wanted to buy the Magantec 10-40 for my 94 Accord Exi but was told as it has done over 100k I should get 20-50. I ended up getting Valvoline 20-50 but could I have still gone with 10-40?
    From my experience, it really depends on the health of the engine.

    10 years ago I owned a DA1 integra. I got it with 210,000kms, and had to run minimum 25W++ oil to avoid it burning oil up like crazy. The engine was already loosing some compression when I bought it, as discovered during a pre purchase test. The piston rings were worn.

    Now I own a DC2 Integra. 185,000kms now, last compression test came back entirely good and within factory specs. I use Valvoline 10-40w Synguard in it and it runs very smooth.

    The previous owner's last service was with a regular Ultratune shop, done only 2 months before I took over the DC2. Whatever oil they put in the engine was crap, because it made the engine rev all rough and lumpy. Noisy too. Maybe the shop thought engines above 100,000km must use 20w and up oils or something.

    I swapped the oil out with 10-40w Synguard a week after I bought the DC2, and the difference in smoothness was dramatic. Besides, the DC2 was specced to run with 10-40w oil in our weather conditions from the factory.

    Moral of the story? Don't let mileage determine what oil to use. Let the health of the engine do it. If the engine's compression checks out fine, stick with the original factory specs in oil weightage.

  10. #34
    Well now that I have changed the ATF, put new oil and sparkies etc things sound and feel smoother.

    Currently I am using 20-50 is a compression test able to be done DIY or do you have to take it in to a mech? How much?

    So by "burning up" your saying the poorer health engine used up the oil quickly and had to be changed more regularly.

  11. #35
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    Gc subaru
    flushing your motor is the biggest gimmik in engine oil
    Quote oh dear ****ing lawd. my d*ck did more than move. it jumped out of my pants, and tore the fly open....

  12. #36
    Only a radiator would need to be flushed hey?

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