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  1. #1
    Member Array
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    Sep 2008
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    B18C You wouldn't
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    Understand

    Cut OEM springs vs Lowered Springs

    Whats the difference between cut springs and low springs say Kings.

    Friend said they are more dangerous (cut springs) but yeah.

    give your 2c.

    ~King Of Spam~

  2. #2
    Ozhonda Supporter Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Bankstown
    Car:
    N/A is best
    very bumpy ride and shit handling
    im sure some other guys here will give u better info that i have
    No Comment

  3. #3
    Cut springs are illegal pretty much everywhere. Properly rated aftermarket lowering springs will give that lowered look and improve handling (especially when matched to the right shocks/dampers).

  4. #4
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    How bad are you talking when shit handling? in comparison to them not cut.

    ~King Of Spam~

  5. #5
    wells, if u cut them, that means the compression is still the same, but its a shorter distance

    so, its alot more bouncy if u over humps,
    FS: BMW E60 04' 530i

  6. #6
    Ozhonda Subscriber Array
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    Jun 2008
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    Doncaster, Melbourne
    Car:
    DC5R with a JDM K20A
    Lowered springs man. Don't go cheap, or you'll get another popped tyre and have to run your space saver again.

    But yeah, if you want quick and nasty just go get King springs or something.

  7. #7
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    Dec 2008
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    835 Beaufort St
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    hondie 2000
    Wut they said.

    You'll stilll haev the same spring rate, but at a lower distance... and you'll be bouncing like crazy.

    My friend bought a modded civic. When he turned corners, there was so much flex in teh spring that his side scraped the ground. Sparks. Woo!

  8. #8
    Member Array
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    Sep 2008
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    B18C You wouldn't
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    Kings still like 200$ I need a lip/grille =[

    ~King Of Spam~

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by curtis265 View Post
    You'll stilll haev the same spring rate, but at a lower distance... and you'll be bouncing like crazy.
    When you cut any spring shorter the spring rate increases, it doesn't remain the same (or decrease).

    However, the rate is unlikely to increase enough to compensate for the resulting shorter distance from the damper top to the bump stop, so even though the spring rate has increased to some degree the suspension will bottom out more easily than previously (often a lot more easily, especially if the old dampers are OE soft, and worn...).

    Properly engineered lowering springs should have an increase in rate over stock that is at least enough to minimise bottoming out. However, when spring rate is increased the damper stiffness also needs to be increased in order to control the stiffer spring, and old / worn OE dampers are unlikely to be strong enough (in fact the stiffer spring rate may soon cause a marginal old damper to fail completely).

    Bottoming out the suspension is bad because it may cause damage, but more importantly because it causes instantaneous weight transfers that can make the handling dangerously unpredictable, especially near the limit of adhesion.

  10. #10
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    May 2008
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    Melbourne
    Car:
    Integra
    Stick with springs. Go for something like skunk2, they are cheap, stiff, lower by a fair bit (2.5"/2.25") and our american counterparts swear by it!

    Check 999 automotive the trader here

  11. #11
    i cut springs all the time on my mates eg, handles fine i thought it was really bad cuz everyone said not to but yeh we did it on a eg and a ek still driving around no problems just scrapes hard on speed bumbs, if u decide to cut it cut it from the top so the bottom still stays in the perch.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by 3iuuop View Post
    i cut springs all the time on my mates eg, handles fine i thought it was really bad cuz everyone said not to but yeh we did it on a eg and a ek still driving around no problems just scrapes hard on speed bumbs
    What may be OK driving on relatively smooth city streets at city speeds may not be OK at 110kmh (+...?) on the open road.

    Like with most things, the Devil is in the detail. Just how bad it would be to cut any spring depends on two things; how much is cut, and what the original spring rate is.

    If the uncut rate is relatively high then cutting the spring by X may not be a significant issue because the rate is high enough to limit suspension travel enough to avoid excessive bottoming out, despite the lowering. There will nearly always be a point beyond X that will result in problems.

    The softer the uncut spring rate the more likely that cutting the spring may cause problems with bottoming out, and most stock springs are relatively soft.

    Note that very low drops are likely to result in problematic bump steer which has nothing directly to do with the springs themselves (i.e. it doesn't matter how the lowering was acheived, just how much the chassis was lowered).

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