first ive heard of this but i think the problem may be a leaking brake booster and the reason you can only tell on full turn is because the engine drops revs causing less vacum. Possibly this may be it.
= First Production Company To Produce 100HP Per Litre NA
first ive heard of this but i think the problem may be a leaking brake booster and the reason you can only tell on full turn is because the engine drops revs causing less vacum. Possibly this may be it.
my brake happen on the other way. when i fully turn the steering, i feel brake losing power but stil able to brake at the bottom. if i accelerate when fully turn, the brake totally not working and need to pump for at least twice to make it work again.
I had bent the power steering hard line before but the brake line is untouch. so i dun think power steering hardline will affect the braking ability.
also i had crv 5 stud front conversion and dc5r rear 5 stud coversion.
but it shouldn't having problems with them as it happen when the steering wheel is fully turn.
thats pretty weird man, with the car off can u pump the brakes untill it gets fully stiff or does it keep pumping? also check the regular, fluids, kinks/creases.
= First Production Company To Produce 100HP Per Litre NA
did you bench bleed the mc before you installed it?
if you're using dc5r rear calipers, i'm assuming you have to swap left and right? did bleed them properly off the car before installation?
if it's bled properly then i'd suspect that somethings leaking i.e. your master cylinder
I'll have a wild guess at this very unusual sounding problem;
Wheel bearings that are very badly worn may allow the wheel / hub to move when subjected to the forces involved in a tight turn. When turning this may cause the brake disc to push the brake pads away from their usual 'self adjusted' position in the caliper, so when you next apply the brake there is substantial pad motion before the pads contact the disc firmly, and as a result there is a lot of pedal movement before the brakes start to work....???
thats pretty weird man, with the car off can u pump the brakes untill it gets fully stiff or does it keep pumping? also check the regular, fluids, kinks/creases.
when the car is off, i can only pump like 2-3cm and it was stiff. i check fluid all the time like eryweek to make sure they are safe.
Originally Posted by vinnY
did you bench bleed the mc before you installed it?
if you're using dc5r rear calipers, i'm assuming you have to swap left and right? did bleed them properly off the car before installation?
if it's bled properly then i'd suspect that somethings leaking i.e. your master cylinder
I not sure if i did bench bleed. but i did bleed the mc first, then connect the hardline and bleed the brake. I know about the dc5r rear caliper. i wrote a diy section on it before: http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=110908
Originally Posted by JohnL
I'll have a wild guess at this very unusual sounding problem;
Wheel bearings that are very badly worn may allow the wheel / hub to move when subjected to the forces involved in a tight turn. When turning this may cause the brake disc to push the brake pads away from their usual 'self adjusted' position in the caliper, so when you next apply the brake there is substantial pad motion before the pads contact the disc firmly, and as a result there is a lot of pedal movement before the brakes start to work....???
this could be one of the reason. but when i did my 5stud swap before, i couldn't see any movement from the bearing. besides, the brake pads is pretty tight on the rotor when i install them. so even if the movement is big, it shall not move the pads too much. but i am not sure.
besides, my front LCA bushes is broken. but i dun think it would affect the brake ability. anyonehave idea?
is there any place that able to check this situation? and how much would they charge?
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= First Production Company To Produce 100HP Per Litre NA
Originally Posted by B18cEG
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