Problems with the Euro

**revolution** · 02-09-2009 11:06 PM

Originally Posted by euro1603

for people complaining about rattles in there car, for fk sake.. what do you expect, if you had money then buy an audi quality then or better still play some music and stop listening for new rattles in the car.. and i can assure you audis have problems too, my mate is fed up with all the electrical faults and they charge a fortune to fix and this was a brand spanking new 60k car after 4 months.

Couldn't agree more

. You paid just a mere $40K for a Japanese car, not a $100K Mercedes, expect there to be rattles (I have a few when it's cold but all go away once interior is nice and warm). You pay little and expect alot, there is no such thing in this world.

**ozscott** · 03-09-2009 03:09 PM

The newer Jap stuff is tighter inside that many european cars...my new CU2 is by far the tightest inside that I have seen and I have been in quite a few newer BMW's Merc, Audi etc. It simply has NO sounds or shakes.

Cheers

**The X Man** · 04-09-2009 09:32 AM

Originally Posted by LXRY

Hi guys....

my problems till now car just done 100,000klm's :

Sounds like i have had alot of the same problems you have had too. After several attempts they replaced the entire drivers seat and that fixed the problem. Also had the sunroof completely changed in less then a week after buying it because it was cactus. Thats just the start.

As for the front pillar rattle issue, yes, i have been struggling to get this one fixed. It wouldn't be so bad if this "loud cracking" noise that occurs each time you go over a bump was somewhere other then 20cms away from your ears!

For the guy that suggested buy a 2nd hand car next time around - that's exactley what i am going to do - i'm over the new car thing.

**10KRPM** · 05-09-2009 09:08 AM

i agree there are faults with every car.

i had a brand new 99 wrx, shitty clutch and that was about it. Noise was a problem so i had the doors sound deadened.

S15 - 2nd hand with about 23000km. Nothing really bad here but very tinny for what was back then a 40k+ car. Let the gf drive it....she drifted it into a palm tree.

Bought another one...this time a spec r. Gear box was clunky as hell....sold that and moved onto....

Dc2r - This was alvin's old car.....which i sold to him with all the goodies. Treated like a toy ( was a hk students hill climb car before i bought it) Cant really make a comparision on it as it was loaded up to the 9 yards before i got it.....so cant compare it to stock.

Current car - wifes euro cl9 auto lux 05. We bought this brand new and its still going strong. Nothing wrong with it .....almost 80 000km on it and still going strong. Although the leather is starting to peel....might stick electrical tape on that

**unity** · 05-09-2009 02:51 PM

Originally Posted by 10KRPM

i agree there are faults with every car.

My boss drives a CLS 500 and it's constantly plagued with problems, and very expensive problems too.

**ticktock** · 25-11-2009 07:01 PM

Originally Posted by aaronng

The spot weld between the sheets of metal is really poor. If you look just between the gap and the trim, you'll the spot weld. Compare the left side with the right side. Left has like one and a half welds, while the right side has two full welds.

Tapping is when it is still mild. At first, I thought it was a loose cable or plug in the roof. It gets worse by changing to stiffer suspension, the tapping turns into a metal creaking sound.

I know it's been a while but I was going to take a note of all the rattles and ask the dealer to fix them at my next service. I had a go with the lithium grease where you suggested but it didn't seem to help. Well, I actually don't hear that tapping noise any more, probably because another rattle from behind has become more pronounced lol. There's now a fast rattling/fluttering noise coming from the rear on the right side. I liken it to the sound of a moth flapping it's wings against something.. About that speed. Sounds like it's coming from around the right rear passenger door. Sometimes it's even there when the car is on but stationary!

I'm trying to fix some of these myself before the service as I'll be going on a road trip next month and wouldn't mind minimising annoying rattles. Otherwise I'll just turn the radio up

**aaronng** · 25-11-2009 07:54 PM

Originally Posted by ticktock

I know it's been a while but I was going to take a note of all the rattles and ask the dealer to fix them at my next service. I had a go with the lithium grease where you suggested but it didn't seem to help. Well, I actually don't hear that tapping noise any more, probably because another rattle from behind has become more pronounced lol.

Then the lithium grease fix worked.

Originally Posted by ticktock

There's now a fast rattling/fluttering noise coming from the rear on the right side. I liken it to the sound of a moth flapping it's wings against something.. About that speed. Sounds like it's coming from around the right rear passenger door. Sometimes it's even there when the car is on but stationary!

I'm trying to fix some of these myself before the service as I'll be going on a road trip next month and wouldn't mind minimising annoying rattles. Otherwise I'll just turn the radio up

Probably some lose wiring or something behind the door trim vibrating. Is your car stock? A stock Euro shouldn't have vibrations like that.

**ticktock** · 25-11-2009 09:08 PM

Originally Posted by aaronng

Then the lithium grease fix worked.

Probably some lose wiring or something behind the door trim vibrating. Is your car stock? A stock Euro shouldn't have vibrations like that.

Yeah it's stock. I stopped noticing the tapping before I applied the lithium grease. I should get someone else to drive while I get in the back and listen to where exactly this rattle is coming from. I'm not exactly sure it's coming from the door. Could be from the seat, boot area or roof. Problem is it's intermittent, though it seems to be out in force most of the time these days.

**boggyhole** · 11-03-2010 10:56 PM

Originally Posted by aaronng

Your handbrake cable may be too tight. Or you are doing a lot of handbrake turns.

I don't think it is the hand brake as this is a separate drum internal to the rear brake. The rears tend to go first because of the electronic brake distribution (EBD) as it tries to reduce the impact of "lurch" braking by trying to provide even braking to all 4 wheels rather than mostly on the fronts as in the old type vehicles. This is the feeling of the whole bonnet dipping down under heavy braking. The EBD system reduces this, but no one has really thought through the impact on the rear (smaller) brakes. Still the brakes on the Euro is much better than your bog standard crummydore.