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B16a- Stroker kit vs B18?
Have been looking at some stroker kits for the B16a to take capacity to 1.8litre. i will be upgradeing all engine internals (cams, cam pullys, pistons, valve springs etc) and at some point adding individual throttle bodies as i would ideally want to stay N/a.
So the question is would i better off dropping the money into a b18 or even k20 maybe? or going mad on the b16a?
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Swap out the bottom end for a B18b or B20b block, the b16a has a shorter deck height which will hurt your rod/stroke ratio if you stroke it
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Originally Posted by ZeForce
Swap out the bottom end for a B18b or B20b block, the b16a has a shorter deck height which will hurt your rod/stroke ratio if you stroke it
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Originally Posted by ZeForce
Swap out the bottom end for a B18b or B20b block, the b16a has a shorter deck height which will hurt your rod/stroke ratio if you stroke it
Actually, you can have an 1820cc B16A with a rod ratio of 1.58:1
Same as B18C (Aka TODA kit)
In fact you can even have an 1857cc B16A with a rod ratio of 1.54:1
Same as B18A/B20B
Further, if you sleeve the block & are willing to wait for the pistons to be made...
You can punch a B16A out to 2020cc & still have an acceptable rod ratio.
Still looks like a wee engine though...
TODA Performance Australia Pty Ltd
TODA Racing - FIGHTEX - MFactory - HALTECH - EXEDY
Race engines, Dyno tuning, Licenced workshop, Parts.
P:0401869524 email: toda@todaracing.com.au
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Originally Posted by TODA AU
Actually, you can have an 1820cc B16A with a rod ratio of 1.58:1
Same as B18C (Aka TODA kit)
In fact you can even have an 1857cc B16A with a rod ratio of 1.54:1
Same as B18A/B20B
Further, if you sleeve the block & are willing to wait for the pistons to be made...
You can punch a B16A out to 2020cc & still have an acceptable rod ratio.
Still looks like a wee engine though...
I stand corrected... just out of curiosity, how much would the above setups cost?
Last edited by ZeForce; 24-06-2009 at 12:30 AM.
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Originally Posted by ZeForce
I stand corrected... just out of curiosity, how much would the above setups cost?
Originally Posted by TODA AU
PM for current pricing
geez,after all that work,wouldnt ya just sell the b16 block,buy some more deck height & do the same amount of work
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Originally Posted by ZeForce
I stand corrected... just out of curiosity, how much would the above setups cost?
We can do that sort of thing, starting from $6500 - drive away
Incl new crank, rods & pistons, machining costs, machining costs, labour in & out, genuine gaskets, oils, fluids etc...
Realisticly this is similar money to what you'd pay for a B20 bottom end.
That is one with high compression cast pistons, rod bolts, head overhaul etc fitted & tuned with Hondata
Originally Posted by CRXer
geez,after all that work,wouldnt ya just sell the b16 block,buy some more deck height & do the same amount of work
It's not really much work at all.
On balance, if you've got an end goal, a stroker B16A can deliver equal results to a mild or heavily modified B18C.
Minus the expense of a new engine.
That's not to say swapping to a B18 or B20 can't be done at a reasonable price...
As clearly it can & the B20 swap is very effective.
The advantage of the B16 stroker is less hastle on inspection...
P-platers would understand this better...
TODA Performance Australia Pty Ltd
TODA Racing - FIGHTEX - MFactory - HALTECH - EXEDY
Race engines, Dyno tuning, Licenced workshop, Parts.
P:0401869524 email: toda@todaracing.com.au
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or do k20 swap is worth it
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You can tell the difference between a b16a and b18c block
I know proconcept is running a stroked B16a to stay in their class
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I have always thought a LSVTEC with B16a pistons would make for a nice street setup. Deck the block 20 thou, ARP rod bolts and head studs, new rings and bearings, etc, etc shouldnt cost too much and will give you enough compression to use a decent sized cam. Add the usual I/H/E + IM/TB + tuning and I reckon you would have yourself a decent NA setup.
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Originally Posted by ZeForce
I have always thought a LSVTEC with B16a pistons would make for a nice street setup. Deck the block 20 thou, ARP rod bolts and head studs, new rings and bearings, etc, etc shouldnt cost too much and will give you enough compression to use a decent sized cam. Add the usual I/H/E + IM/TB + tuning and I reckon you would have yourself a decent NA setup.
My mate had a similar set-up which made decent power for the money spent
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