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  1. #25
    Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Unit 5/15 Sefton Rd, Thor
    Car:
    08 Red CU2 Euro
    Quote Originally Posted by ZeForce View Post
    I have always thought a LSVTEC with B16a pistons would make for a nice street setup. Deck the block 20 thou, ARP rod bolts and head studs, new rings and bearings, etc, etc shouldnt cost too much and will give you enough compression to use a decent sized cam. Add the usual I/H/E + IM/TB + tuning and I reckon you would have yourself a decent NA setup.
    Works well... Good value & good output....
    TODA Performance Australia Pty Ltd
    TODA Racing - FIGHTEX - MFactory - HALTECH - EXEDY
    Race engines, Dyno tuning, Licenced workshop, Parts.
    P:0401869524 email: toda@todaracing.com.au

  2. #26
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    doorstop
    off topic,but while your here dishing out free advice adrian,lol,
    is P72 & PR3 head the same height or is P72 taller?
    edit: overall height that is?

  3. #27
    Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Unit 5/15 Sefton Rd, Thor
    Car:
    08 Red CU2 Euro
    LOL... Same height....
    The intake ports of the P72 are at asteeper angle & enter the head higher on the head.
    The exhaust ports are more simetrical in the P72...

    For outright grunt, the P72 (ported) seems to perform better too...
    165kw @ wheels + (NA)
    TODA Performance Australia Pty Ltd
    TODA Racing - FIGHTEX - MFactory - HALTECH - EXEDY
    Race engines, Dyno tuning, Licenced workshop, Parts.
    P:0401869524 email: toda@todaracing.com.au

  4. #28
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Gold Coast,QLD
    Car:
    Eg Civic
    also while on this topic adrian and you threw a number out there for how much that work was for the stroker...

    2L stroker for the b16b/b18c..me having the b16b but looking at options when it come time to rebuild
    Would it be around the same as what you quoted back on page one

    Quote Originally Posted by TODA AU View Post
    We can do that sort of thing, starting from $6500 - drive away
    Incl new crank, rods & pistons, machining costs, machining costs, labour in & out, genuine gaskets, oils, fluids etc...
    either way when it comes time to build i know where i'm headed
    "Wheels are like bosoms to men, and cars have four of them"

  5. #29
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    doorstop
    Quote Originally Posted by TODA AU View Post
    LOL... Same height....
    The intake ports of the P72 are at asteeper angle & enter the head higher on the head.
    The exhaust ports are more simetrical in the P72...

    For outright grunt, the P72 (ported) seems to perform better too...
    165kw @ wheels + (NA)
    cool thanx,my rubber cheque is in the mail.

    i always thought the straighter shot on the P72 woulda made it taller,just cant seem to work out why some of the EDB18 boys can get their bonnets closed & some cant,even though same mounts

  6. #30
    Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Unit 5/15 Sefton Rd, Thor
    Car:
    08 Red CU2 Euro
    Quote Originally Posted by eg5civic View Post
    also while on this topic adrian and you threw a number out there for how much that work was for the stroker...

    2L stroker for the b16b/b18c..me having the b16b but looking at options when it come time to rebuild
    Would it be around the same as what you quoted back on page one



    either way when it comes time to build i know where i'm headed
    For a basic 2L engine, yes that would be on the money.
    This would be using modified factory parts with forged pistons added to the top,
    A rod ratio of around 1.50:1 can be maintained.
    Kind of like the old Spoon 2L B18C in times gone by…
    TODA Performance Australia Pty Ltd
    TODA Racing - FIGHTEX - MFactory - HALTECH - EXEDY
    Race engines, Dyno tuning, Licenced workshop, Parts.
    P:0401869524 email: toda@todaracing.com.au

  7. #31
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Adelaide
    Car:
    XR6 Turbo
    Quote Originally Posted by TODA AU View Post


    For a basic 2L engine, yes that would be on the money.
    This would be using modified factory parts with forged pistons added to the top,
    A rod ratio of around 1.50:1 can be maintained.
    Kind of like the old Spoon 2L B18C in times gone by…
    Rod/stroke ratio of 1.50 is a little on the low side, dunno if I would class that as "acceptable"
    ______________________



    B20VTEC Build Thread

  8. #32
    Account Disabled Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Perth
    Car:
    EK4 VTI-R
    Quote Originally Posted by eg5civic View Post



    either way when it comes time to build i know where i'm headed
    s**t me too :P

    was that $6500 for the 1.8 stroker or 2L?
    Last edited by reedyek4; 24-06-2009 at 10:33 PM.

  9. #33
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Gold Coast,QLD
    Car:
    Eg Civic
    Quote Originally Posted by reedyek4 View Post
    s**t me too :P

    was that $6500 for the 1.8 stroker or 2L?
    2L

    Quote Originally Posted by TODA AU View Post


    For a basic 2L engine, yes that would be on the money.
    This would be using modified factory parts with forged pistons added to the top,
    A rod ratio of around 1.50:1 can be maintained.
    Kind of like the old Spoon 2L B18C in times gone by…

    If i was going to crack it open it would be a serious rebuild but what i'm trying to ask is, is it better to stroke the b16b block to 2L or to buy a b20b and ls/vtec the block?
    "Wheels are like bosoms to men, and cars have four of them"

  10. #34
    Account Disabled Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Perth
    Car:
    EK4 VTI-R
    Quote Originally Posted by eg5civic View Post
    If i was going to crack it open it would be a serious rebuild but what i'm trying to ask is, is it better to stroke the b16b block to 2L or to buy a b20b and ls/vtec the block?
    i was meaning to ask same question? reliability wise...providing the b16 has forged internals is the 20b more reliable?

  11. #35
    Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Unit 5/15 Sefton Rd, Thor
    Car:
    08 Red CU2 Euro
    Quote Originally Posted by ZeForce View Post
    Rod/stroke ratio of 1.50 is a little on the low side, dunno if I would class that as "acceptable"
    Theory aside...
    It works....
    TODA Performance Australia Pty Ltd
    TODA Racing - FIGHTEX - MFactory - HALTECH - EXEDY
    Race engines, Dyno tuning, Licenced workshop, Parts.
    P:0401869524 email: toda@todaracing.com.au

  12. #36
    Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Unit 5/15 Sefton Rd, Thor
    Car:
    08 Red CU2 Euro
    Quote Originally Posted by reedyek4 View Post
    i was meaning to ask same question? reliability wise...providing the b16 has forged internals is the 20b more reliable?
    That's the $20 question...
    & it depends what you're doing with it & how you look after it.

    B20B is probably a cheaper alternative & can potentially last longer with lower piston speed, higher rev potential etc...
    The stroked B16B/B18C has torque... Lots of it.
    But generally won't make power past 8800rpm (& that;s with high comp, cams, head work & ideal intake & exhaust)
    TODA won the Japanese national Ghymkhana championship 3 years in a row with an engine like this...
    That engine is still going today (here in Aust), albeit the head on 1 car & the bottom end in another....
    TODA Performance Australia Pty Ltd
    TODA Racing - FIGHTEX - MFactory - HALTECH - EXEDY
    Race engines, Dyno tuning, Licenced workshop, Parts.
    P:0401869524 email: toda@todaracing.com.au

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