Side Gapping Plugs & getting more power out of your car!

[Limbo]

I came across this when looking into increasing my gapping due to coil increase.
This seems like a cheap way of increasing sparkage without the added cost

*Disclaimer* - Use at your own risk! i don't take any responsibility for your actions

http://www.pakwheels.com/forumreply_...page!4~pw.html

Subject : >> DIY: Side Gapping Spark Plugs For Extra Gain <<
I have talked about this a number of times previously but this article talks in much more detail. Hope you guys make use of it and talk about your experiences on here.

SUBJECT: Side Gapping Spark Plugs
PROBLEM: Improve spark with standard plugs instead of paying triple for Split-Fire� type plugs
COST: Time only
TIME: 30 minutes
WHAT'S NEEDED: Your favorite spark plugs (Motorcraft or Autolite preferred), feeler gauge,

DETAILS: One of the problems of buying the "premium" type spark plugs, is not only the initial cash outlay, but the hesitation to replace them at sooner than "normal" intervals. Hesitation to replace expensive plugs when attempting to diagnose an unknown problem is common and many times can waste a lot of time in the diagnostics procedure, especially when it turns out the plugs were the culprit.

SOLUTION: First, obtain a high quality over the counter version that carries an economical price. Motorcraft and Autolite come to mind for their performance and safety features of inherently melting before the piston does. Then carefully shorten the electrode arm by taking a die grinder with a small cut-off wheel and remove a small portion from the end. *Do not* nick any part of the center electrode or porcelain! As seen in the photos below, nearly the entire center electrode can be seen from the bottom of the plug as compared to the standard version being completely shrouded from view. This modification will expose more of the generated spark to the combustion chamber, thereby more completely igniting the air/fuel charge instead of the spark being forced to propagate in a sideways direction and not directly into the majority of the combustion mix. This procedure of exposing the electrode is called "Side Gapping", and has been a well kept secret for many years in the racing circles. While some may debate the amount of Horsepower, Torque & Fuel economy increases, there is no disputing that side gapped plugs significantly improve spark propagation as well as reduce plug fouling and loading up, with no sacrifice to your wallet.

The sharper edges also encourages the spark to ignite quicker and stronger, much like striking an arc with a welder on an edge rather than a flat surface. However, there is one minor drawback, and that would be the center electrode will wear one side sooner due to the spark now being directed to one specific area on the plug edge, rather than a random path all around the electrode point. Even though the plugs may wear slightly quicker, since your home-modified plugs can cost up to four times less than that of "premium" versions, they can be more readily changed, leaving you with fresh new plugs during your engine's operation more of the time than with the costly premium versions.

As the photos show, the side gapped plug exposes more of the spark path to the open combustion chamber than the Standard version, as well as even the Splitfire� or Bosch+4� types. And this can be done to any of your favorite brands of plugs you already like, to make them better!

To gap the new plug, slide the feeler gauge in at a 45 degree angle to read the tightest clearance between the center electrode and the arm. Slightly tighter than OEM recommended gaps can be taken advantage of, measuring the actual space between the closest surfaces of the two electrodes. Reduce gaps by approximately .010". Closer clearances will yield the same if not more of the spark front, and at the same time resist the flame from being "blown out" when using Nitrous Oxide injection or supercharging. The closer "sharp edged" surfaces will more easily propagate the initial spark while the main mass of surface area being farther away, will increase the spark travel (volume). Re-gap periodically, as the accelerated wear on the electrode edges will increase the gap sooner.

NOTE: Side Gapping spark plugs has been the serious racer's secret since the early 60's. Only recently have major manufactures started producing this style of plug for mass production, but with unreproducible sophisticated designs, since if their expensive plugs looked like these, they would lose all their business to home mechanics copying that simple to do at home design. Experiment with different configurations and� Have fun!

PHOTO: ��...The left photo illustrates the shrouded standard type plug (red arrow) "squeezing" the spark sideways rather than downwards directly into the homogenized combustion mix in the cylinder such as the newly modified Side Gapped version does (yellow arrow). The Yellow graduation shows how much of the arm that was cut off. The right photo compares three types of plugs. Note the center electrode exposure the combustion chamber sees.







Cut the electrode arm off even with the edge of the center electrode. *do not* touch the center electrode or porcelain!


Carefully file the edges of the electrode arm to remove any remaining burrs, but keep the edges clean and sharp.


With a feeler gauge, set the gap at the narrowest point between the center electrode and the electrode arm. Reduce the gap by .010" than norm specifications.








The increased electrode exposure guides the angle of the flame front down towards the center of the combustion chamber promoting a faster, more complete and even burn thus increase power, performance and fuel mileage as well as reducing plug fouling.



HOW SIDE GAPPING WORKS: The closer gap (1-Yellow) allows for easier ignition while the angled surfaces (2-orange) allow the ignited spark to grow in size to exceed that of normally shaped plugs. As the spark column flows along the electrode surface it grows outwards in size towards the combustion chamber and down towards the piston (3) creating a larger spark presence but with an easier starting spark for situations where more spark is needed, such as high compression cylinders, high rpm's and increased fuel conditions as well as preventing "spark blow-out" in nitrous and super/turbo charging applications.

[beeza]

That looks sweet Limbo (I will read properly when after this bloody headache passes - ALL DAY DAMMIT!!)

[CRXer]

no real need for this sort of stuff on todays plugs & combustion chamber/cylinder filling designs.

no real need to play with your stock ignition system at all,unless your making like 400+HP.

[JohnL]

I used to do this 30 years ago (ouch...). I'd be amazed if after doing it you could actually feel any power increase (placebo affects may apply...), I never could. A rolling road might show a miniscule improvement, but then it might not.

Note that sparks like to propogate from sharp corner to sharp corner, and having sharp corners on the two electrodes helps produce a healthy spark. This is the main reason why old plugs with eroded rounded electrode corners misfire more easily. It's also why you see elctrodes with 'U' and 'V' sections and split tips, i.e. more sharp corners.

[Limbo]

dunno, i've got a new coil and i can feel the difference in it, and this is without tune or adjustment. If this mod is even half as effective i'd do it, just something i thought might give some of the guys out there a little edge without costing too much.

The idea seems to make sense, and i don't see it as dangerous as any of the other power mods.

Its the poor man's ignition power increase.

[JohnL]

It certainly won't hurt, so I wouldn't discourage you from trying it to see whether or not it really makes any significant difference. It would be very intersting to see some back to back dyno pulls.

My understanding suggests that 'side gapping' won't make the spark any bigger as seems to be implied in the blurb. What it does do is to allow the 'flame kernel' to grow in it's very initial stages without having to 'grow' around the outer electrode, i.e. the outer electrode 'gets in the way' of the newly born and growing flame kernel to a slightly lesser degree than would be the case with an unmodded electrode.

This may result in a less 'deformed' early flame kernal that remains less 'deformed' as it grows and traverses across the combustion chamber. This may (or may not) result in a more efficient burn, but I have my doubts...

[JohnL]

dunno, i've got a new coil and i can feel the difference in it,

You shouldn't be surprised if your new coil is replacing a worn out coil. A weak coil will give a weak spark, and a significant number of 'power strokes' may misfire, even if you can't feel the engine running roughly.

[CRXer]

This may (or may not) result in a more efficient burn, but I have my doubts...

agree,todays motors are already very efficient in the burn,it leaves little room for improvement with just spark tricks.

[JohnL]

,it leaves little room for improvement with just spark tricks.

And the stock ignition systems are extremely good, so it's a waste of time and money fitting higher output coils etc.

[Slaz]

And the stock ignition systems are extremely good, so it's a waste of time and money fitting higher output coils etc.

The honda system is pretty good but when you go high in comp, boost and or revs it does have it limits, side gapping does work but then you still have the problem of a standard plug and the electrode arm wearing rather quickly opposed to platinum or irridium plug so frequent changing would be required to keep your gap at the correct length, opposed to just tapping it in when they become worn to get abit extra out of them

[Limbo]

yeah my original coil was fine on the dyno, no misfires.

I've just installed a cranes coil as a precaution cos as Slaz said boosted is a different beast.

The side gapping is only to slightly improve spark, not to make the sparkplug last any longer, i may give this a go later once i get the car running well.
I'm running plantiums so hopefully they last longer

[CRXer]

when u start seeing 250-300kW+ on your dyno sheets,then yeh,maybe start looking into aftermarket ignition,until then,your just carrying extra weight under your bonnet for no reason,extra parts to complicate things & some aftermarket engine management systems can become tempremental using some aftermarket ignition systems.

look at deanos build,200+kW & not a lead wire out of place.