problem with dc2 driving and idle

[juns]

been having a prom with my integra dc2 not sure what happened but it was driving fine the night before, well i started it yesterday and it was idling okay took it for a drive and there's this slight jerky (not they type where you get when you don't balance the clutch and acelerator) well when you apply a certain pressure towards to acelerator it starts jerking and when you just lean your foot against the acelerator is drives like normal. i've also floored it and there's a dramatic power lost. afterwards i let it idle and it's sometimes missing a beat but it's not in a rhythm where one cylinder isn't firing, it's more out of no where with no pattern to it.
i've checked all vacuum hoses and everythings good, just wondering if anyone has any idea why this is happening
i thought it might've been the shunk2 shortshifter i installed the day before but i doubt it'd be so any help would be grateful

[geeang]

Sounds like your fuel delivery, could be a dying pump or blocked fuel filter.
This was happening to my car just before the fuel pump died.

[juns]

Sounds like your fuel delivery, could be a dying pump or blocked fuel filter.
This was happening to my car just before the fuel pump died.

so this might be the fuel filter? should i look at the filter before i do anything else?

[OMG.JAI xD]

Easiest first bud.

Check for spark. Well obviously you will have spark since your car starts, but the strength.
Move on from that and check your plugs.
Water contaminated plugs causes hesitation at certain revs (dont ever wash down your engine.) Along with fouled plugs (start and stop without the car warming up)
Then to go abit more technical you can check the resistance in the leads.

If all your electricals/ignition side is ok, start pointing fingers to mechanical.
80-90% of the time, a rough engine is due to an electrical problem.


Im not saying youre not well educated but saves you from asking, so here u go :

Check for spark. Take a lead off. Take a decent length screw driver. Stick it up the lead until it touches the metal piece. Place the exposed metal bit of the screwdriver close to the rocker cover. With the help of someone else, crank the engine and inspect the spark.

Take the plugs out, well you just need a socket with that lol.

Resistance in the lead.
Take one lead out at a time (so you dont mess up your ignition timing) Get an ohmmeter or multimeter with ohm function, place a terminal on either end of the lead, and measure the resistance. Im un sure of the specs, but different leads have different specs.

Sometimes fixing a problem doesnt mean you need to replace a part. =]

[juns]

thanks for the help mate, i'll give this a go tomorrow. hopefully it's something of the above. cheers

[[ricer]]

do the ecu test first
its the easiest
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...=ecu+code+test

something similar happened to me and when i did the test, it came up as a faulty map sensor... switched it with a spare and car was fine again

[juns]

do the ecu test first
its the easiest
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...=ecu+code+test

something similar happened to me and when i did the test, it came up as a faulty map sensor... switched it with a spare and car was fine again

I've done the check and it came up with two codes one was 53 (which I don't know what it is and seems as though there's no such thing...) second code was 54 which is crank fluctuation sensor. Just wondering if anyone by any chances have an idea why the first code came up or what it stands for

[AznTeg]

ive been having the same problem for a few months now.. my engine code is 9 - pointing towards dizzy CYP/CMP sensor, or possibly loose wiring/worn cap,seal rotor in dizzy.. i looked up dis:

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...cu+engine+code

mentions the engine goin into limp mode, lose power. Is ur problem similar to these symptoms... hope it helps - otherwise PM ECU-MAN.. good luck fixing the prob (Y)

PS. look up more posts by ECU-MAN.. i had a look for ur code 54 or 53... didnt really find anyfing..