DIY DC5 Front Number Plate Bracket

[omgzilla]

I got sick of looking at that ugly number plate mounting frame on my DC5-S and thought i'd do something about it!

$10.00 and an hour later...







A much cleaner look!

Note: Measurements have been changed to fit the plate closer than the above pictures show.
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HOW TO MAKE A CUSTOM DC5-S NUMBER PLATE FRAME!

Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!

NOTES: This comprehensive guide was based on the DC5 Integra Type-S (and a standard size QLD number plate), but the same basic procedure can be adopted to any car (with existing bracket provisions/mounts). For QLD number plate sizing - 'create-your-plate' at www.PPQ.com.au and follow the steps. If in other states - get out the measuring tape!
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The Aim: Create a new number plate mounting bracket that...
1. Looked alot nicer than the factory monstrosity!
2. Didn't require any damage to the front bumper cover or number plate. So - NO MORE HOLES!
3. Sat the top of the number plate in line with the 'crease' in the front bumber (to compliment the existing 'lines' of the car), and wouldn't disturb the air path into the frontal air-dam etc.
4. Wouldn't need to be modified again to fit a slimline plate (if I ever got personalised plates).
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The Concept:


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Materials Required:
- 1x Metre length of Aluminium flat bar (about $5 from Bunnings).
NOTE: Grab one that's at least 20mm wide and at least 2mm thick - for rigidity. For the purposes of this tutorial the bar I used is 25mm wide.
- Paint (pressure pack gloss enamel will be fine) and Metal Primer, if you desire.
- 2x Small Rivets.
- Scotch Pad/Sandpaper (for paint preparation).
- Wax and Grease Remover (for paint preparation)
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Tools Required:
- Measuring tape.
- Hacksaw.
- Hammer.
- Pencil and/or Scriber (for marking out on the metal).
- Drill and Drill Bits, a centre punch also makes things easier.
- Bench vice (or at worse a solid, flat and 'square' edged surface to bend on and a clamp).
- Rivet Gun.

* Other tools that are useful, but not necessary for this project: File(s), Gasket Scraper (for removing burrs after drilling etc) and a bench grinder comes in handy when cleaning up after cutting and to smooth sharp edges etc..
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Reference: This image will be your reference. When text is coloured, the image below should be referred to.


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Instructions:

Step 1: Remove, Assess and Measure!

Remove your existing number plate and mounting structure. Have a look at the underside and you'll see the factory mounting points. Now it's time to get out the measuring tape!
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The distance between the Mounting Surfaces (on car) is 240mm. Which means the overall width of the frame assembly needs be no much more than 260mm wide (in oder to keep the frame 'hidden').



So the overall frame assembly and obviously, the Frame Top Section) will be 260mm.
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The standard number plate hole sets (for QLD anyway) are 165mm's apart (for the 'inner' hole set) and 210mm's apart (for the 'outer' hole set).



So with our frame measuring only 260mm and aluminium bar width of 25mm, using the 'outer hole set' would be a bit close (once the Frame Sides are attached to the Frame Top Section) - so the 'inner hole set' will be used to mount the number plate to the Frame Top Section.
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The Mounting Surface area (vertically) is about 25mm.
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The distance from the Mounting Surface (and where Bend 1 will be created [later on]) extending outwards, to come flush with the front bumper point is 55mm. We'll refer to this length as the Frame Underside.

At the 'ending point' of the Frame Underside - Bend 2 will be created (later on).

From this point the Frame Sides only needs to extend upwards until the top of your number plate, which is 100mm (for a slimline plate). Remember: We want to hide the frame in behind the plate; so if you make this any longer than 100mm the frame will show under a slimline plate!

Here's the math...

Complete Side Frame Piece (marked in yellow on the reference image):
25mm for Mounting Surface.
+ 55mm for Frame Underside.
+ 100mm for Frame Sides.
+ 10mm allowance for the bends (5mm each for Bend 1 and Bend 2).
Total = 190mm.

Top Frame Section:
Total = 260mm.
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Step 2: Marking and Cutting!

Grab your aluminium bar - measure, mark out and cut your lengths needed.

You should have: 2x lengths of 190mm (for both Frame Sides) and 1x length of 260mm (for the Frame Top Section).

Remember to leave a bit of excess in case you make a dodgey cut etc. I find it easier to mark out one length, cut it and then mark out the next length from the previous cut mark.
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Step 3: Making Bend 1!

Now, on both of your 2x lengths of bar (for the Frame Sides) mark out lines for Bend 1 at 100mm from one end.

Step 3.2 - Set the bar in the vice like so...



Make sure its really tight!

*Remember to have the 100mm measured length (or Frame Side) set downwards in the vice and the 'waste' (or what will become the Frame Underside and Mounting Surface) being the part you're about to beat downwards.

Step 3.3 - Now using your hammers' flat face - beat the bar at the edge lowest to the vice until the 90 degree bend is complete. The picture below shows the bar halfway bent, but shows where the hammer should be striking.


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The picture below shows Bend 1 complete.


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Repeat Step 3.2 and 3.3 (as above) to create Bend 1 on the other Frame Side length.

Tip: Once you've created Bend 1 on one Frame Side, you can use it as a reference when bending the other one - to make a perfect match. Like so...



Remove from the vice and check that both Frame Sides match. If they are not perfect - adjust them accordingly.

Now that Bend 1 is done on both of our Frame Sides - let's get onto Bend 2...
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Step 4: Making Bend 2!

Place the frame pieces on the bench with the Frame Sides upright so that (what will be) the Frame Underside and Mounting Surface is flat on the bench. Now mark out lines (on both Side Frame Pieces) 55mm from the crease formed in Bend 1.

Like so...


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Set up in the vice and bend 45 degrees downwards, accordingly. Using the same method as in the steps for Bend 1. Again, using the first Side Frame Piece as reference when bending the second Side Frame Piece.


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Both bends completed - your Side Frame Pieces should look like this...


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Make sure both Side Frame Pieces match...



If not - adjust accordingly.
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Step 5: Cleaning Up!

Now is the time to 'clean up' the job. Cut off excess/waste and file/grind the edges smooth etc.

As noted in the image below, I didn't cut my Side Frame Piece lengths at 185mm - so I had a bit of waste to cut off.


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Recheck that the Frame Top Section measures up and the Side Frame Pieces are identical otherwise the plate will be skewed.
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Step 6: Drilling Holes and Attaching Frame Pieces!

Mount Holes - Drill 10mm holes in the exact centre of the Mounting Surfaces. Drilling these holes at 10mm will allow the use of the OEM plastic frame bolts.


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Rivet Holes - Now drill holes for the Rivets where the Side Frame Pieces attach to the Frame Top Section - but only just big enough to fit your rivets through (otherwise it will ruin the integrity of the frame)! Make sure to set out the pieces exactly otherwise the whole frame alignment will be off. Another idea is to use 2x rivets on each end to make sure the frame won't tilt - but i think 1x is fine on each side as the mounting bolts hold everything together pretty well.


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Once all of the holes are drilled remove the burrs/swarf.



I used a gasket scraper but a chisel or file can also be used.
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Attaching - Place the Frame Top Section in front of the Side Frame Pieces (as though you're looking face-on to the frame assembly) and then rivet the pieces together. Ensure the flat face of the rivet will be at the front of the frame (so your number plate will sit flush with the frame).


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Plate Bolt Holes - Measure 50mm in from both ends of the Frame Top Section and mark lines. On these lines measure 10mm's from the top of the Frame Top Section and mark a line to intersect the previous marking. At these intersection points - drill the 2x 5mm holes to accommodate the bolts for attaching the number plate - these holes should be 165mm's apart.


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Step 7: Test Fit! and Adjustment!

Now that your frame has taken shape - go ahead and test fit it to the car!

If all of your measurements, cuts, bends, holes and rivets are correct - it should fit straight on! Fit the number plate onto the frame, stand back and check that the frame is aligned properly and not on an angle etc.

If it's not right - make adjustments until you're happy.
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Step 8: Preparing and Painting!

Give the frame a quick rub over with scotch pad to make the paint stick a little better. Then clean with wax and grease remover. Once dry, apply your metal primer (if desired) or just get straight into painting. Follow the directions on the paint pack for best results.
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Conclusion:

Use the threaded clips (or 'speed nuts') from your OEM bracket to attach the number plate to your new frame - they should line up with the holes you made in your Frame Top Section perfectly.

Whack on a neat plate cover and you're done!
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Many hours were spent preparing this guide, so I hope that you found it useful and you now have a cleaner front end!

[omgzilla]

Just a note - I'm looking into getting a small batch of brackets made up 'professionally'. A much better single piece design using better materials and finishing hardware. It will look much better again It will sit the plate in a similar position as this one, or if there's enough interest - like 455ET's offset one.

The estimated cost for these will be around the $30.00 mark - PM me if interested.

[Timmy_B]

i hate the OEM number plate. good DIY

[googed]

very clear and concise DIY man

i shall try this out

[omgzilla]

Thanks guys! I put quite a bit of time into it to make it as clear as possible.

Bare with me while i get the rest of the pics up. Hopefully have it all sorted by tomorrow night.

[r3ckless]

nice work dude.... i actually ended up jsut using a hack saw and cut the oem holder all over the shot.. a reaon why i done it like this ,is it also provides a small cushion affect, in case some dick reverses into me witha towbar.. the shock will smash that first before my bumper.... PM me guys if u want a pic..cos i dont wanna hijack omgzilla's work!

[omgzilla]

I think everyone has thought about hacking the OEM mount - even me! But i just thought i'd do up this one for the time being. I just don't like the look of the number plate hanging off either side of the OEM mount

Still pretty keen on getting ones done up at the metal fab place near mine... hmm.

[omgzilla]

Updated all missing pics! Sorry dudes

[markis]

i just made my set up thanks to zilla. followed your write up to the letter. except i ran the 100mm plate bracket down to 90mm so its hidden underneath my slim lines. i also fitted a washer between the plate and plate bracket so when you tighten the mounting screws you dont bend the plate against the risen backing caused by the rivets. so it sits clean and doesnt bend.

top DIY..

[Chriskoss]

Best prepared, explained and illustrated DIY in my opinion to date, couldnt of been any easier for us to understand, props to you omgzilla, really good work.

I just wish I had a dc5/s/r now, so I could do this DIY hahah

good work

[WATAJK]

Dude thats really good!
I hate the OEM shit for the number plate
Might actually have to give this a go

[markis]

if your in brisbane ill give you a hand i dont have enough aluminum bar for a complete 2nd unit thou might buy more and make another for a mate