i heard that the engine light occasionally turns ons after installing the intake. is this true?
That is true. i have fitted a injen to a good client of mine FN2R and after a while of driving eg 80 minutes the engine light comes on. The fault code is running rich and will only be evaluated after 80 minute ignition cycle via the PCM so if your doing short trips it may not trigger it. i have monitered the live data list and confirmed running rich. have placed stock intake on to eliminate other possibilities and fuel trim returned to normal instantly so theres no guess work behind it. not sure if this is rectified with version 2 but wouldnt recommend the version one kit without reflashing the ecu or having aftermarket control + tune.
DR Honda thats great info! Thanks for that.
Wanted to know how everyone feels about the Mugen Air Intake and how it compares to the Injen? is it really worth $1000+?
So there is a version 2 of this intake? Was it created to stop these sorts of issues occuring?
Apparently there is a version two. Best to ask the Australian distributors of Injen (JDMYard) to see if the issue has been rectified on the second version.
That is true. i have fitted a injen to a good client of mine FN2R and after a while of driving eg 80 minutes the engine light comes on. The fault code is running rich and will only be evaluated after 80 minute ignition cycle via the PCM so if your doing short trips it may not trigger it. i have monitered the live data list and confirmed running rich. have placed stock intake on to eliminate other possibilities and fuel trim returned to normal instantly so theres no guess work behind it. not sure if this is rectified with version 2 but wouldnt recommend the version one kit without reflashing the ecu or having aftermarket control + tune.
Thats good information! Answers my question, i am using version 2 which is basically the same intake but the diameter of piping is slightly larger, with everything else the same. I am not getting a check engine light but after continuous hard driving the car blows out black smoke and the idle becomes very rough with revs jumping around. I assume this is a sign of the car running rich? Could my MAF sensor also be faulty? Do you think this could harm the engine in any way? And in terms of ECU tuning do you recommend hondata flashpro or haltech?
how can u tell if u have series 1 or series 2, are the part numbers different? if not what size pipe is on series 1 compared to series 2????
You have version 2 - the main pipe has a larger diameter compared to the first revision and the lower bracket mount is also different design.
Do you get a CEL?
Thats good information! Answers my question, i am using version 2 which is basically the same intake but the diameter of piping is slightly larger, with everything else the same. I am not getting a check engine light but after continuous hard driving the car blows out black smoke and the idle becomes very rough with revs jumping around. I assume this is a sign of the car running rich? Could my MAF sensor also be faulty? Do you think this could harm the engine in any way? And in terms of ECU tuning do you recommend hondata flashpro or haltech?
You have hit the nail on the head. Its not a maf issue at all just for some reason it richens the air fuel ratio and the maf doesnt agree with it. Choice of ECU and this is preference is the Hondata. Reasons you retain the stock characteristics of the B & F CAN systems utilized in regards to VSA/ABS/TCS correct operation. Harm you engine, you can answer that! Fowl everything up possibly.
You have hit the nail on the head. Its not a maf issue at all just for some reason it richens the air fuel ratio and the maf doesnt agree with it. Choice of ECU and this is preference is the Hondata. Reasons you retain the stock characteristics of the B & F CAN systems utilized in regards to VSA/ABS/TCS correct operation. Harm you engine, you can answer that! Fowl everything up possibly.
So should tuning it with a piggyback ecu say the hondata flashpro fix this issue? Im not too technical, so put simply does running a rich air fuel ratio damage the engine in any way? Should I revert back to the stock airbox before I do anything else?
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