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  1. #1
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    DIY: Adjusting Ignition Timing

    Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!

    Any additional/relevant information gained from this thread has been added to the first 2 posts.So all the info you need is in the first 2 posts.No need to look through the thread for any additional information.

    Aim:

    To adjust/set the timing.


    Required:

    * Timing light ($60 from repco - The one I'm using,and it's great!)
    * Spanner/shifter
    * Paper clip


    Steps:

    This is so easy.It really is.Anyone can do this,so simple!

    Firstly,make sure all electricals are off,that means the interior light too!

    Then short out the SCS connector which is located with the ECU,next to the passenger’s feet:



    Remove the cover to expose the ECU and 2 large plugs:



    The plug we want is the one with the 2 and 3 pin plug BUT we only want to use the 2 pin plug!

    Note: This plug is not connected to anything,it just hangs there.

    Bend your paperclip into a 'U' shape and insert it into the 2 pin connector:



    This will remove any compensations/changes the ECU might be making due to temperature/electrical load etc and the ECU will hold the timing at a fixed value.

    Now,start the car and let it idle for 10 minutes,or at least let the fan come on twice.This will ensure the engine is at normal operating temprature.This is Important.The engine must be at warmed up to normal operating temperature to do this.

    Your timing light has 3 connections:

    Positive and negative onto the battery (this is just power supply,some timing lights are battery operated and therefore don’t need these 2 clips)



    The 3rd connection is a clip and clips over the sparkplug lead on cylinder 1 (as shown in pic).There is an arrow on the top of the clip,make sure that is pointing at the spark plug.





    So here it is,ready to go:



    Now,making sure the engine is warmed up,point the timing light down into here:



    Or here,if it works better.I have an engine torque damper in the way,so I need to use the above method.



    Pull the trigger on the timing light,the timing light will strobe.This strobe light is flashing when the 1st cylinder is sparking,which means the cylinder is at Top Dead Centre (TDC).

    While you are doing that,look straight down here:



    And you will see something like this:



    Which means:



    So the timing is set at 12 degrees BTDC which is the factory/stock setting.

    Just as an example,here's what 10 degrees BTDC would look like (That is - 2 degrees retarded.14 degrees BTDC would be 2 degrees advanced etc):



    VIDEO: it's flashing constantly but the video doesn't pick it up,so it looks like it's flashing periodically:



    The Pointer/Marker is a fixed marker,it does not move,this is your point of reference.

    The other marks are on the crank pulley,the crank pulley spins around and every flash it's back in view again,completing 1 rotation every flash.

    In this picture the timing is set at 12 degrees BTDC.You can see the Pointer/Marker,when viewed from directly above lines up with the 12 deg BTDC.So the timing is set at 12 degrees BTDC,which is the factory setting for the d16y4.

    If the Pointer does not line up with the factory timing mark,you will need to make an adjustment.

    There will be 2 or 3 bolts,depending on the engine,on the distributor that you will need to loosen off a bit:

    Here they are on the y4:

    1.


    Close up:


    2.


    Close up:


    Loosen them off and turn the dizzy a bit,then check the timing again.Don't touch the dizzy cap as you may get zapped.Lever it up from underneath:





    Or tap it down to move it the opposite direction:



    Do this until the timing is set at the factory setting.On the inside of the hood,it will have written your timing setting for your car.For all cars,the principle is the same,just the settings varies.On b-series it's 16 deg BTDC but check first!

    When your happy it's set,tighten the distributor back down and Re-check the timing to make sure it hasn't moved after you tightened it.

    After you have satisfactorily completed that:

    Turn off the car
    Remove the paperclip from the SCS connector
    Reset the ECU

    And your DONE!

    Just incase you are working on the y4,here's the main battery fuse and the back up fuse location,otherwise John's thread above will help you:




    Other comments:

    Here's a thread on finding the best timing position without a dyno.

    There's talk of gains in performance being had if you are running an aftermarket Ignition system.Well,I am running the MSD Ignition System and there is no advantage on my car when I advance or retard the timing.It makes the car surge/hesitate a bit when it's not set to factory settings.
    Factory/Stock timing is best for my car.

    You can 'play' a little with your timing though,advancing or retarding it,say 1 degree at a time,then take it for a drive and see how it is,you may find a better position for your timing than factory setting but I doubt it.Worth trying though.

    So saying that,stay with stock timing,all the smart car guys say to stay with stock timing settings too!

    btw - Are you lacking low end power,that all too important 'pep' ya need off the line? Car not revving smoothly to redline?

    This and many other small niggling problems can be fixed by doing -

    THIS!

    It costs 5 bucks and will more than likely improve performance and driver experience substantially!
    Last edited by beeza; 16-10-2009 at 10:35 AM.

  2. #2
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    Mar 2006
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    doorstop
    hey beez...
    just quietly....
    see the little arrow on the head of the inductive clamp u put on the spark lead?
    it should be pointing towards the spark plug....
    go recheck your timing.....

  3. #3
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    hehe

    So that's why my timing light wasn't workin' properly...I was gonna take it back...

    I will check and change anything necessary!

    Thanks Teach!!

  4. #4
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    good idea to hold dizzy by metal base rather than plastic cap while adjusting it & the motors running,will stop u inadvertantly finding any cracks in the cap the nasty way.
    but i realise u were just doing that for the photo right?

  5. #5
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    Yup

    hehehe

  6. #6
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    Fixed!

  7. #7
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    Oct 2004
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    Car:
    Jazz EVO IX
    lol, lucky i has Jas set my timing.....
    btw... i might be doing the multi spark system, just as i charge the battery again for the car
    Evo IX - THE FINAL EVOLUTION

  8. #8
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    Yeah,luck Jase is here to help us out! Legend!

    You'll notice it I reckon Limbo,as you know,I love my MSD system!

  9. #9
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    Mar 2007
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    www.letusdrive.com.au
    Car:
    D15B7 YOOOOOO!
    can you advance the timing on these motors, ? by turning the dizzy?>
    Last edited by na-118; 31-08-2010 at 12:14 AM.
    Check out my build thread EGB16T. http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...build../page14
    Check out my for sale thread constantly updated with b series/ eg parts!

    Wakefield Honda Nationals First Timer : na-118 EG b16 1:16.4900

  10. #10
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    Yes that's how U do it,just turn the dizzy mate.

    Just follow the above directions and U cant go wrong,simple as!!

  11. #11
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    Car:
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    can you adjust it by the cam?
    Check out my build thread EGB16T. http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...build../page14
    Check out my for sale thread constantly updated with b series/ eg parts!

    Wakefield Honda Nationals First Timer : na-118 EG b16 1:16.4900

  12. #12
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    Cam Timing.It's different from ignition timing,it's got to do with when your valves are opening and closing.So if U advance or retard the cam gear U can shift/move the power band around.This allows for fine tuning on the dyno.

    I have a bisi stage 1 cam in mine and it's set at stock but Justin at bisimoto says:

    "In regards to your question, when you degree in your camshaft, set intake lobe center-line to 110 degrees. This is where bisimoto cams have been found to perform their best!"

    I don't know how to do that so I was just gonna wait until I get it tuned with emanage but it would be good to do and see how it is because atm I got no gains from 0-100km/h after 100km/h there's more power there,it's stronger.

    Great question!!

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