If he already had most of the parts would it really cost more than a K swap?. The most expensive part are the sleeves and then installation. Who in australia does sleeving for B20?.
If he already had most of the parts would it really cost more than a K swap?. The most expensive part are the sleeves and then installation. Who in australia does sleeving for B20?.
Properly not cause he can sell off his set-up off and add on top to do a K swap.
To the OP, i don't think you need that much compression to start with. Keep the combo simple and you would see better results
hey guys just wanted to find out if this setup would be ok to drive on the street it want be a daily driver maybe once or twice a week and the odd trip to the drag strip its a build b20
sleeved 13:5:1 compression wiesco pistons crower rods ls crank type r oil pump itr crank pulley bored to a 2.2 type r head milled skunk 2 pro 2 cams skunk 2 valvetrain and cam gears and intake manifold 450 cc injectors golden eagle fuel rail aeromotive fpr
It all depends on the quality of your fuel, if you can get consistently good quality fuel and an equally good tune, you may be able to get away with it. Otherwise you will need to look into E85 or race fuel, and again availability and cost of fuel play a big part in this.
my wifes car runs 13.7 comp ratio and runs on E85, which is a bit of a pain due to the lack of E85 availability, but the car is not daily driven anymore
My opinion is that you don't need that kind of setup for a daily, but it's up to you mate. That's something I would only really consider for a weekend car etc but for me a daily is just A to B with maybe a little bit of fun (which is why I have the EH Civic VTi with I/H/E ----> still slow!).
From what I've heard the B20 bottom isn't that reliable, even with a lot of work done to it. Personally I'd consider a B18 bottom (if you don't have one already) with some aggressive head work, or even just the head work on it's own + bolt-ons.
Either way, best wishes to you with the build. Show us the monster!
My opinion is that you don't need that kind of setup for a daily, but it's up to you mate. That's something I would only really consider for a weekend car etc but for me a daily is just A to B with maybe a little bit of fun (which is why I have the EH Civic VTi with I/H/E ----> still slow!).
From what I've heard the B20 bottom isn't that reliable, even with a lot of work done to it. Personally I'd consider a B18 bottom (if you don't have one already) with some aggressive head work, or even just the head work on it's own + bolt-ons.
Either way, best wishes to you with the build. Show us the monster!
From what the internet has told you . The B20 is know for its sleeves to fail, which i have yet to witness or know of someone personally that has had it happen, Personally i rekon with a NA application the sleeves will be fine aslong has you havent overbored it. Forced Induction is a different story.... Futhermore your saying even with sleeving the B20 isnt reliable?. Please explain.
Why would he want to downgrade to a B18?
Properly not cause he can sell off his set-up off and add on top to do a K swap.
To the OP, i don't think you need that much compression to start with. Keep the combo simple and you would see better results
the price i pay for this build was dirt cheap and i consider doing the k24 but it work out it was going to cost me about 2k more the what this build did so im up happy with what i got and my car is only a weekend warrior anyway
Thanks to 40RGD performance 101 for the work on 17SNR b20 conversion now it time for stage 2
the price i pay for this build was dirt cheap and i consider doing the k24 but it work out it was going to cost me about 2k more the what this build did so im up happy with what i got and my car is only a weekend warrior anyway
Im not entirely sure you factor in if things will fail with the B20's. But yeh, I would of went for a K24 set-up for all that trouble and will make more power than a B20 would ever make
13.5:1 is not needed. Where does this more compression is best crap come from?
I have an idea, how about you go find your ecu tuner and ask him what he thinks of that compression ratio, he will tell you on the spot what is safe and what makes best power. I hope you understand that the higher the compression ratio you run, the less timing you can achieve (on pump fuel this is an issue) - race cars overcome this by using race fuel and the likes (water injection, etc).
It is normal in common practice to chase less ignition timing with the same power although in above example it's at the expense of detonation
Edit: Don't get me wrong, i'm not driving you away from this build, i'd love to see it happen - I'm just putting my cards on the table.
by saving up 2k for not going for K series is a bit lame..
u have to use e85 or race fuels to keep it running and not having it PING PING PING on hot sunny day =p
that high compression is not recomended to be daily.... if you are hardcore enough DOO IT DOOO IT !!! lol
BUT hey, be different and have one of a kind b20 2.2!! why not!!
as long you are certain that you will have a reliable engine!
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Originally Posted by GSi_PSi
. The B20 is know for its sleeves to fail, which i have yet to witness or know of someone personally that has had it happen, Personally i rekon with a NA application the sleeves will be fine aslong has you havent overbored it. Forced Induction is a different story.... Futhermore your saying even with sleeving the B20 isnt reliable?. Please explain. 
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