How do I get these bloody tight caliper bolts off

**Chriskoss** · 25-11-2009 03:00 PM

I need these bolts (pic attached below) taken off so I can put my new rotors and pads on

Cant get them off for the life of me.. tried using alot of wd40.. breaker bar to improve leverage, they just wont come off, I dont think theyve ever come off either, besides changings the pads perhaps

How can I bloody get these bastards off!

cheers

**mocchi** · 25-11-2009 03:24 PM

no need to take out the caliper-caliper bracket bolt, only need to take out caliper-knuckle bolt.

you need to grow some man muscle. hahah.
btw my breaker bar is as long as my arm. roughly.
how long is yours?

**jdm_b16a** · 25-11-2009 03:31 PM

If you mean the bolts holding the bracket on (as opposed to the longer, slider bolts), they might be tight but any torque wrench should do the job. If they are tighter than that, you have a real problem.

I know that doesn't give you a solution but make sure you are going the right way (anticlockwise), so try going forward slightly then back, and keep repeating until you have success. These bolts are subjected to a lot of heating and cooling, and may "dry", which is usually indicated by a whiter, powdery look when you remove them. Use some anti sieze on them when you put them back in.

Also, use a socket with multi-grooves as opposed to the cheaper ones which are only five-sided. Make sure it is a solid fit, try to avoid an extension bar too (so make sure socket is directly on the torque wrench.) Use your other hand to hold the socket firmly against the bolt head, and lever the torque wrench from its longest point (the handle).

Good luck.

Peter

**Neesmo31** · 25-11-2009 03:31 PM

Ahh typical seized bolts in alloy housings. Firstly try and use good tools (it good ring spanners or 6 sided sockets if possible) and get a hammer, put the spanner or breaker bar and socket on the bolt, and give the tool your using a nice sharp hit to try and crack the thread. Dont belt the hell outta it just try and get a nice sharp load going into the bolt. Even try going clockwise as well, and then be careful when your unscrewing it so you dont strip anything. Once its out use a good nickel antiseize or locktite (locktite still locks the bolt/nut on/in the thread but also prevents corrosion getting into it and seizing it on again)

Hope that helps.

**Neesmo31** · 25-11-2009 03:33 PM

lol we said the exact same thing jdm!! lol. you beat me though.

**mocchi** · 25-11-2009 03:34 PM

Originally Posted by jdm_b16a

Also, use a socket with multi-grooves as opposed to the cheaper ones which are only five-sided. Make sure it is a solid fit, try to avoid an extension bar too (so make sure socket is directly on the torque wrench.) Use your other hand to hold the socket firmly against the bolt head, and lever the torque wrench from its longest point (the handle).

Good luck.

Peter

many ppl suggest to use those 5 sided sockets to take out problematic bolts.
i've tried this and just like peter i find the multi grooved one to be more suitable.

maybe the difference is just the quality of sockets themselves.

**e240** · 25-11-2009 05:01 PM

I know it may sound elementary, but are you turning it the right way?

**aaronng** · 25-11-2009 05:11 PM

Make sure you are turning it the right way, get proper 6-sided sockets so that you don't risk rounding the bolts off, and use a breaker bar and a rubber mallet. Hit the end of the breaker bar with the mallet so that siezed bond is broken. Similar concept to an impact driver.

**mrpsi** · 25-11-2009 05:23 PM

i took these bolts of my car last week with ease.

as said before make sure you are going the right way. Trying hitting the ring spanner with the hammer.

Careful with the bolts as you dont want to damage them.

**Chriskoss** · 25-11-2009 05:30 PM

Yes turning left for loosening..

I tried giving it a hit, and I am using 6 sided sockets.. it just wont budge! I dont think I have those star-grooved sockets, but Ill try using a ring spanner next

I do need to take off the bracket too if Im replacing my disc's aswell?.. in the DIY it says everything should come off I think.. Am I wrong?

Mocchi the bar I was using was short..Ill make a longer one then, the length of my arm and give it a go.

The main problem is the awkward angle.. the socket is like slipping off at an angle when I try and use both hands to loosen the bolt, because the fender guard is in the way of me really getting in there.. I slipped off once and fell on my ass.. on my tools.. wasnt very pleasant.. loud curse words were said that could of been herd down the street lol

Could someone confirm which bolt in the pic needs to come out for me to replace the rotors and pads?

thx

**mrpsi** · 25-11-2009 05:45 PM

Please see image. You will have to do the same for the other bolts on the other side of the caliper.

Also to remove the rotor you may need to undo some screws at the front near your wheel studs.

**Chriskoss** · 25-11-2009 05:59 PM

Thanks for that mate. Pic is very helpful!!!
Im changing both pads and discs so I guess it'll all come off.. and yea I havent even thought about the inner bolts yet, theyre in a bastard of a spot.. ahh I wish they made it easier lol