Oils for turbo B series?

[Lukezen27]

im just paranoid LOL after u factor in a conversion, then turbo kits, all sorts of bolt on mods, 20k+ has been spent and im paranoid it may blow up so i want to get the oil just right LOL im sure everyone on here understands

20K without LDS Christian


You need that fixed soon

[DLO01]

If you use a decent oil, it would be the last of your worries.

[mooshie]

I went for the Edge 0W-40, I think that it is a little too thin when cold, might try something in a 10W next time. I noticed that it accentuated a couple of small oil leaks that I have near the bottom of the block, no drips, but you can see where the oil is coming out.

My car tends to sit cold for a while as it is a toy and not a DD

[Limbo]

mine's the same, but i don't have any leaks showing.
It just seems to burn when i track it

[trentd]

lol i'm buying oil tonight.

[VTi_b0i]

I do have LSD Luke LOL i got that done like 4months ago haha

[Lukezen27]

I do have LSD Luke LOL i got that done like 4months ago haha

Sweet

So why no 1/4 times?

Made a big diff yeah?

[VTi_b0i]

lol TBH not really much difference, still bugger all traction, but now u can feel its TRYING to grab traction. you can FEEL both wheels spinning. i havent gone to the drags yet cause i am tracking down 5lug rims and tyres for my conversion. My tyres are fcuked and no point getting new tyres on these rims when theyl be coming off haha that and i work night shift so i needa get the nyt off to come, and ive been pretty broke lately haha

[Phased]

The reason why the 0w40 is more expensive is to achieve a 0w40 weight (mainly 0w) that meets API/ACEA standards etc. you have to use a larger amount (if not 100%) of PAO/Ester/Diester(Group IV/V) base stocks, you will rarely see a Hydro-Processed(Hydro-Cracked) 0 weight oil, not a good one anyway.

Personally I wouldn't be using a 0 weight in a turbocharged car, particularly one that wasn't engineered to be turbocharged. 0 Weight oils are better suited to climates the majority of Australia rarely see's (Below 0 Deg.C).

It does largely come down to what you want to achieve and how deep your pockets are.

Consider:
- You have built a car to produce far more horsepower than what the original engine was designed for thus added load, temperature (especially considering turbo's recycle air which creates added heat) and stress.
- Your goal Oil Change intervals (do you drive this car often?)

Attributes that I would be comparing first when looking for an oil that would suit your setup...

- Noack Volatility (% Weight loss at high temperatures)
- Wear Tests (Self Explanatory)
- Flash Point (Temperature at which the oil ignites/burns)
- Total Base Number (Resistance to Acidity and Other harmful contaminates)

I would recommend any Group IV oil for daily driving and Group V oil for track work... (Group IV: AMSoil 10w40 | Group V: Royal Purple 10w40, Redline 10w40, Motul 300V 10w40)

I'm not a fan of "Extended drain intervals" as although oils may be better than others, it doesn't change the effect of contaminates from intake air, combustion deposits etc. Although some oils resist contaminates better than others (referring back to TBN).

I'm currently waiting for Oil Analysis back for Comparing Royal Purple 5w30 to AMSOIL 5w30 and also once I've finished with my current Castrol Edge 5w30. (Basically I'm Comparing Group III, IV and V.)

Also NEVER underestimate the effect of a good oil filter. I personally use AMSOIL Ea which are fully synthetic however the K&N, Purolator PureOne and Mobil1 Semi-Synthetics are quite good too. You don't want to see a Ryco (torn apart) even before use, trust me!

If your willing to spend the extra money for a better oil, go for it. In my opinion and research I have found you are better off with a Group III oil with a good Oil filter and 5k change intervals than a more expensive oil with a OEM/Ryco Filter. However nothing goes past a good oil, filter and short OCI's .

/rant

[lookingforboost]

have you done any tests with the nulon oils yet? and you say the Purolator PureOne oilo filters are better then the ryco ones?

[Phased]

have you done any tests with the nulon oils yet? and you say the Purolator PureOne oilo filters are better then the ryco ones?

I haven't had any experience with Nulon to be honest. I can't seem to get onto their website (as it seems that it has been hacked). Although I have no factual basis to this I would assume that it would be a Group III oil (Hydro-Processed), I doubt Australia has the ability/demand to produce a PAO/Ester Synthetic oil. I could be wrong. If they are a group IV I would be surprised and interested, their pricing seems to be quite fair.

The Purolator PUREONE filters are Semi-Synthetic (Fibreglass and Cellulose) last I heard. I have a friend that used them on his LS1 for a while however I never knew where he purchased them from. In filter analysis (results I didn't actually see first hand, as it was done in Queensland) they come out above the average brands that just use cellulose(paper) filter media.

[kccord]

Phased, very keen to hear from you back about the oil analysis. Cheers.