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  1. #1

    Questions about Ingalls Camber+Toe arms

    So I was installing my Ingalls camber and toe arms with my mate and I bumped into a few problems.

    1) Is the shorter tube or longer tube the camber arm?
    2) On the passenger rear side, the toe arm looks like it has some sort of screw on top of it in the middle whereas the other side does not. What do I do about this?
    3) When we installed the camber on the driver's rear side, the arm is still loose. As in it still moves slightly side to side (when facing hub straight on).
    4) And also, I was told to use threadlocker (medium strength) but am unsure where to use it.

    Any help would be awesome guys. Thanks a bunch

    PS. I have searched and have been unable to find answers.

  2. #2
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Sydney Harbour Bridge
    Car:
    03 CL9 Euro
    1) Is the shorter tube or longer tube the camber arm?
    If you haven't removed it then match the arms, if i recall i think the longer one was the toe (further from the rear) and camber is (closer to the rear).

    2) On the passenger rear side, the toe arm looks like it has some sort of screw on top of it in the middle whereas the other side does not. What do I do about this?
    your car is luxury?
    That is the headlight level adjustment, it adjusts to the level of the road in conjunction with suspension geometry.

    3) When we installed the camber on the driver's rear side, the arm is still loose. As in it still moves slightly side to side (when facing hub straight on).
    You will need some threadlocker (e.g loctite) on 1 end of the kit of each arm, and the other nut can be tightened manually.

    4) And also, I was told to use threadlocker (medium strength) but am unsure where to use it.
    Threadlocker = used on the thread (one end only).

    Any help would be awesome guys. Thanks a bunch

    PS. I have searched and have been unable to find answers.
    HOPE THIS HELPED.

    dAZ
    vTeK 4-Life!
    FOR SALE: CL9

  3. #3
    Just take it to a mechanic man.

    They will charge you another 40 bux extra even after you take it too him to get them to set up the camber for you.

    up to you bro, but i took mine to jaxx and they did an awesome job!

  4. #4
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Accord Euro CU2
    Yeah man its only $40 to install at a mechanic..

  5. #5
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Western Sydney
    Car:
    94 EG, 11 Maloo
    is it worth it? lol if i only lower the car 1.5inches with Eibach springs, will i really neeed the camber kit? im looking to get her lowered after xmas
    Power Of Dreams...
    VTECN

  6. #6
    not that low man.. probably wont make much diff.. having a camber kit.

    The way i saw it, when i wanted to go lower, i knew i had the camber kit to dial it in.. with stock,. you got nuttin! lol so if your planning on dumping it later on, then maybe a camber kit is a definite yes..

  7. #7
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Accord Euro
    u dont need to as long as ur happy with de amount of camber wear on on tyres..personally i like a bit of camber at de rear..purely superficial for me tho

  8. #8
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Accord Euro Luxury
    Quote Originally Posted by Crapdaz View Post
    1) Is the shorter tube or longer tube the camber arm?
    If you haven't removed it then match the arms, if i recall i think the longer one was the toe (further from the rear) and camber is (closer to the rear).

    2) On the passenger rear side, the toe arm looks like it has some sort of screw on top of it in the middle whereas the other side does not. What do I do about this?
    your car is luxury?
    That is the headlight level adjustment, it adjusts to the level of the road in conjunction with suspension geometry.

    3) When we installed the camber on the driver's rear side, the arm is still loose. As in it still moves slightly side to side (when facing hub straight on).
    You will need some threadlocker (e.g loctite) on 1 end of the kit of each arm, and the other nut can be tightened manually.

    4) And also, I was told to use threadlocker (medium strength) but am unsure where to use it.
    Threadlocker = used on the thread (one end only).

    Any help would be awesome guys. Thanks a bunch

    PS. I have searched and have been unable to find answers.
    HOPE THIS HELPED.

    dAZ
    So what happens to this sensor on point 2)???? when you take off the original arm and replace it with the Ingalls?? It sounds like its better to get the upper SPC arm so we dont mess around with the sensor?
    http://tsx.acurazine.com/forums/show....php?p=9760407
    Last edited by ORLANDO; 13-05-2010 at 11:47 AM.

  9. #9
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Sydney Harbour Bridge
    Car:
    03 CL9 Euro
    sensor in point 2 can have custom mount for it to fix it.
    When i had it on i only used a small section rubber hose wrapped around the arm in the middle w/ 2 hose clamps holding it in place.

    I cut the hose so that it had a flap sticking upwards and drilled hole through it and screwed the sensor arm in it.

    SPC might not sound like a hassle but i just read on the acurazine forum that it requires a ball joint tool to remove it thus why alot of ppl buy ingalls.

    The only problem i found with the ingalls it was very hard to tighten the nuts as they keep coming loose from driving around (vibrations) - camber/toe does not change though only nuts come loose.

    and the ingalls is better in terms of that you get the extra arm to adjust the toe angle, where as SPC only has camber adjustment.
    vTeK 4-Life!
    FOR SALE: CL9

  10. #10
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Accord Euro Luxury
    Thanks for the quick reply, I dont really like the sounds of that cusotm mount etc, would rather make the least mods as possible, so it sounds like the SPC kit is a better option, the mechanics have ball joint removal tools etc. The original toe arm can be adjusted on the Euro from what ive read.

  11. #11
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    06 Euro luxury manual
    Quote Originally Posted by ORLANDO View Post
    Thanks for the quick reply, I dont really like the sounds of that cusotm mount etc, would rather make the least mods as possible, so it sounds like the SPC kit is a better option, the mechanics have ball joint removal tools etc. The original toe arm can be adjusted on the Euro from what ive read.
    I have the Eibach kit but its rebadged SPC.I've only had to have it adjusted once in nearly 4 years.

  12. #12
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Sydney Harbour Bridge
    Car:
    03 CL9 Euro
    yeh i don't think they do SPC anymore from heasman.
    I spoke with them today.
    vTeK 4-Life!
    FOR SALE: CL9

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