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  1. #1
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Brisbane
    Car:
    EK4

    B16A rebuild or conversion???

    Hi guys, I got an EK4 stock B16A with 170000km... Planning to do a Engine rebuild... here are some question....
    1. Should I do the engine rebuild?
    2. How much power will I get back after rebuild? is it a big difference??
    3. How much around it cost?? Or I better do a B18CR conversion, because I can find some for cheap, below $5000 with everything??

  2. #2
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    EF9 and EVO9
    do the b18cR, you won't regret it. more displacement, better gearbox, just a better package altogether.

  3. #3
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    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Sydney - Cabramatta/Liver
    Car:
    Jazz EVO IX
    rebuild would be about $1000 to 2000 depending on what you want the build to go as.
    Standard rebuild would only give you back your original power
    Evo IX - THE FINAL EVOLUTION

  4. #4
    easy. full conversion to b18cR.
    Hondaless.

  5. #5
    Moderator Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    '90 EF8/'94 EH9
    Why are you rebuilding it? O-Rings blowing smoke?

    1. If the car is your daily driver and you need it then don't do the rebuild - if you haven't done it before then it will take at least 3x however long you think it will. Otherwise I would suggest you give it a go - I think I'll try my own when I get back home since my B16 CRX is just my weekend car.

    2. This will depend on the current condition of the engine and why you're rebuilding it. A rebuild will return some of the original power back to the engine that it's lost over the years but I wouldn't expect too much more than about 5% since it's not so old.

    3. A rebuild won't cost near $5k, but that will depend on what you do with your rebuild. Clean it up really good in an acid bath, new seals/gaskets, water pump, timing belt etc I think if you did all that you could expect to pay $1500+

    Rather than a B18CR swap I'd suggest the B16/B20 VTEC build and it'll yield more torque than the B18CR and apparently the B16 head actually breathes better than the B18 head when used in this build.
    Then also consider (since the engine is coming apart) if you want to change the internals - valves, valve springs, retainers, cam shafts, cam gears, port job, pistons etc
    I think that a B20VTEC setup, with a fairly well-built B16 head, generally costs about the same as a B18CR swap but produces much more HP/torque.

  6. #6
    170k and it's shagged wtf how did u treat it

  7. #7
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    B16A EG Civic
    x2 on the B20 conversion.

  8. #8
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    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    EK4
    Actually there's no problem with the engine, just thinking should I rebuild it before the problem comes out, also wants to get a bit more power...
    but after reading the advise, I think I better do a conversion, and sell my b16a...
    Here are few more questions:
    1. How much would it cost to do B18Cr conversion(without cost of the engine)?? Can I use the original dc2, b18cr engine mount, loom, cv shaft... etc
    2. How much around if I sell my b16a with gearbox (new clutch)...
    Thanks for the advise

  9. #9
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    EK4
    One more question: for a K-swap.... is it much much more expensive??
    How much around for conversion without cost of the engine(but include engine mount, looms...)

  10. #10
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    B16A EG Civic
    Drive in drive out expect to pay over 10k more for the k-swap.

    The B18 will fit straight in since there's already a B16 in it. Needs a lot more work doing a K

  11. #11
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Brisbane QLD
    Car:
    ED-209
    strange to see such a post. Rebuild at 170,000? Its a Honda not a Commodore. WTF?

    Reason I'm posting is my b16a2 has just reaches 170,000km and its running like a dream. Yours must have been ridden like the town bike (and never serviced) in order for it to be in a rebuild state.

    B16a2 doesnt have oodles of power, have u driven other cars with a b16a? What makes you think it needs a rebuild?

    Maybe your money will be better spent on upgrades rather than a rebuild. Or, a rebuild it with upgraded cams/valve springs etc..

    Thats my .02.
    Last edited by Mikecivic78; 09-01-2010 at 10:13 PM. Reason: bad grammar

  12. #12
    Moderator Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    '90 EF8/'94 EH9
    Quote Originally Posted by cdaniel21 View Post
    Actually there's no problem with the engine, just thinking should I rebuild it before the problem comes out, also wants to get a bit more power...
    but after reading the advise, I think I better do a conversion, and sell my b16a...
    Here are few more questions:
    1. How much would it cost to do B18Cr conversion(without cost of the engine)?? Can I use the original dc2, b18cr engine mount, loom, cv shaft... etc
    2. How much around if I sell my b16a with gearbox (new clutch)...
    Thanks for the advise

    Bro, if there's no problem with your engine then don't rebuild it. Only rebuild if your head gasket is fecked and you have to open her up, or if you're rings are screwed and you're blowing smoke etc.

    I know some guys who have done 300k KMs, even 400k KMs and they're still going fine. The B Series is a tough motor, mate. Just keep your oil clean, use premium petrol and check your levels are always good. It'll go forever!

    1. Without the cost of the engine I think you'll be paying around $1500-2000 for labour. Another $6500 or so for the B18CR.
    And like I said, it'll be fast but it won't yield power like a B20VTEC swap which is cheaper.
    If you get lucky on engine/labour prices you could get the swap done for $7000, not including engineering certificates. Otherwise it could be as much as $8500.

    2. Your B16A will fetch $2000-2500 with a new clutch.

    3. K swaps are becoming cheaper but I still think you'll be looking at around $7000 for an AUD K20A, and probably $8500+ for a JDM K20A. Labour and new parts would surely push the cost beyond $10,000. Not to mention the K20A is ugly and although it's getting much better I still think there's more support out there for the B/D/H Series


    - What mods have you done to your B16A?
    - What do you want from your car...straight line or circuit potential?

    Have you done:
    - Intake (CAI)?
    - Headers (2.25)?
    - Exhaust (2.25)?
    - Good tyres? RE001's? T1R's? KU36's? Ventus's?
    - Suspension (to help with weight distribution and to prevent wheelspin)?

    You would also benefit a lot from:
    - Lightened flywheel
    - ITR GBox due to gear ratios


    If you've done all those and are still unhappy I would strongly recommend the B16 head/B20 block setup.
    You already have a healthy B16A head and a B20 block is cheap. You would just need to get the B20 block checked to make sure it's in good knick and you can practically slap it on. Uses the same mounts as any B Series engine. Same GBox etc. Might need new headers as the B20 block hangs moderately lower though. A guy from CRXAustralia has literally just put his B16A head onto a B20 bottom with I/H/E and stock internals - he's making 117KW on the dyno which is great power for the streets.
    Also the torque gains would far outweigh the KW gains you'd get from a B18CR swap because of the extra 200cc of displacement and if you then did internal work on your B16A head you would shit your pants on acceleration man. Built B16/B20's can easily make 130-160 KW.


    Just food for thought. I'm thinking of going B20VTEC because my head gasket is weeping oil and I want some massive power

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