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  1. #13
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Sth Wst Sydney
    Car:
    Accord Euro Luxury
    Update on my situation: Car is repaired !!!

    Noise 0-60km/h = worn bearing within hub assembly.
    New OEM rear wheel hub assembly = $330 from Honda

    Vibration/drag 70-90km/h = Warped front rotors.
    New RDA slotted rotors + pads = problem solved.

    Good to be driving a driveable car again
    Thanks to BEL garage & JDMyard.
    2004 CL9 - SSR Professor MS1R/Federal 595 RS-R/Tein SS/Injen CAI/Whiteline RSB
    2006 FD1 - K&N Typhoon intake
    2012 Holden Commodore SV6 ute

  2. #14
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Sydney Harbour Bridge
    Car:
    03 CL9 Euro
    Just to bring up this topic,

    Only recently have i noticed the car has started squealing around 20-30kmh but not always.
    It's always on and off and seems like it from the right side of the car.
    It also normally occurs when slowing down, speeding up tends to go away.

    Do you reckon it's the wheel bearing or just the brake cover in contact with the rotor? Will have a look in the next few days.

    Thanks,
    Daz
    vTeK 4-Life!
    FOR SALE: CL9

  3. #15
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Sydney Harbour Bridge
    Car:
    03 CL9 Euro
    Anyone have experience where you turn full lock (right) at low speeds and there will be a speed dependent sound (schh schh scchh) coming from the front passenger wheel?

    Would that be the front wheel bearing?
    and what's the best way to check on our CL9's?

    Thank you.
    Daz
    vTeK 4-Life!
    FOR SALE: CL9

  4. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by exISeuro View Post
    Vibration/drag 70-90km/h = Warped front rotors.
    New RDA slotted rotors + pads = problem solved.
    How much did this cost? My front discs are warped fairly badly (don't think machining will help).

  5. #17
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Perth, W.A.
    Car:
    '04 Euro [Cl9]
    Machining will always help/fix the problem. But the disk may become to thin and might not be possible anymore. It is also more likely to happen again when the disk gets thinner. I just got quoted either $300 or $400 I think to machine the front disks and machine the pads. (it depended on if they had to take the disks of the car?). But anyway I bought some brand new better quality DBA slotted rotors from Supercheap for just over $300, and some good quality Bendix CT brake bads for $90, and installed them myself. Very strong and smooth brakes now, though I only just bought the car so don't know what it was like before!

    Ollie

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