Bilstein B8 -> Koni/GC

[mocchi]

question:

when tightening top hat nut, how far do i tighten it to?

• until top hat sits flush with bump stop plate
• until damper shaft spins along with nut.. i guess not.
• or should i just follow oem torque setting?
  stock damper has smaller shaft and nut, my damper has bigger shaft/nut (19mm socket)

i understand torque setting for stock damper nut is 3kg/mm.

btw, the ohlins were damper adjustable. more precisely i think it's rebound adjustable.
when the needle is tightened up, rebound is almost none. it doesnt rebound back. with the help of springs, i guess it would rebound but i wonder how it would feel.
when it's loosened up, rebound is quick.

from tight to loose, there is 27 clicks. hmm..

[vinnY]

i usually just do it up finger tight to hold the tophat on, install the shock on to the car, add some pre-load by jacking up the control arm then tighten everything from top to bottom(2xtophat nuts to chassis, tophat nuts to shock, top fork to shock body, bottom fork to lca bush)

i just use my torque elbow for that top hat nut, something like finger tight plus 1/4-1/2 turn

[MM89]

I would like some clarification or reassurance before I buy something to fix my situation.

The rear spring (500lb - 7" length) is slightly loose at full droop. The static ride height is about 2cm higher than what I would like it to be.
I wonder if a longer spring of the same spring rate will allow me to further decrease the ride height.

I understand that helper or tender springs can result in a captive main spring with more capacity to decrease ride height by winding the GC perch lower.
However, these small springs and their spacers are more expensive than buying a pair of linear springs.
Hence I am more inclined towards purchasing a new pair of springs if that's gonna allow me to decrease the ride height.

[vinnY]

that was my beef with my old koni/gc setup, non-captive springs at full droop
went over a bump once, big enough to dislodge it and the sleeves moved up the shock and got stuck on one side only
I guess the biggest problem here is you adjust height with just the spring itself while the shock stays the same length
so if you get a longer spring to fill that 20mm gap, it'll stay at the same ride height I think

I ended up opting for a cusco zero2 setup solely because I could adjust the height via movement of the shock itself and not the spring

though ultimate got sick of the stiffness and settled with a h&r sports cup kit and haven't looked back

[RtN]

can height be adjusted using the koni yellow shocks with springs?

[vinnY]

yeah, slightly

[Bludger]

that was my beef with my old koni/gc setup, non-captive springs at full droop
went over a bump once, big enough to dislodge it and the sleeves moved up the shock and got stuck on one side only
I guess the biggest problem here is you adjust height with just the spring itself while the shock stays the same length
so if you get a longer spring to fill that 20mm gap, it'll stay at the same ride height I think

I ended up opting for a cusco zero2 setup solely because I could adjust the height via movement of the shock itself and not the spring

though ultimate got sick of the stiffness and settled with a h&r sports cup kit and haven't looked back

Cusco's are a good 1st coilover to own.

after that, you want a little more.

[MM89]

Damn that sucks. So helper springs are the only way?

[vinnY]

i'd say so, but as you found out pretty exxy