whats better? Nulon 5w/40? nulon 5w/30? or castrol edge 5w/30

[Mr.PT]

whats better?
wanted wahst best for my civic

[androo]

Stock is 5W-30 so stick with it. Only go thicker if your car is wearing.

I don't know which is better though. I'm running EDGE and it seems pretty good. Some other guys are liking it on here too.

Check out this thread - just a quick one on someone who's happy with EDGE.

Might be some people here who use Nulon who can give you more info though.

Good luck!

[Mikecivic78]

I've used Nulon Full-synth 10w40 in my civic for the last 2 oil changes. I do it every 5,000km.

IMO it's the best viscosity for a Civic with Kms in the 1XX,XXXKM age bracket.

[Mikecivic78]

I've noticed that Nulon isn't that popular. It's hard to find reviews on the net.

So far so good, it doesn't consume any more oil than with FEO. I have no leaks and the engine purrs smoothly.

Nulon make some good cleaning products but they are not well known for oil.

[Mikecivic78]

Go the castrol, if you Civic only has 3X,XXXKm and '05 model, the Castrol 5W30 will be perfect.

[Mugen Civic]

i use Nulon Full synthetic 10w-40 the last two oil changes and it works fine.
tested it out on two track days too.

Was using mobile 1 previously.

[Mr.PT]

my civic is 05 and only done about 34XXX now
i was gonan go nulon not sure yet

[Limbo]

yeah nah, i pass on the mobil 1. Seems to burn in my car.

Motul, Reline & Royal purple are proper group iv synthetics.

From my understanding Mobil 1 is not even a true group 4. Not the AU ones anyway.
In the states it is group 4, but we get the crap stuff.

[gambate]

i've read from somewhere that says that Group IV oil needs some mineral oil in it to carry all those addictive and cleansing agent. its all in the blend ie. it could be 90% group IV + 10% group III. or 10% Group IV + 90% Group III which is hard to find out.
as long as the oils meets those european standard like VW 500 505 MB229.51 BMW Porsche etc etc. its good enough oil for my honda, as long as the viscosity is suitable.

[amant02]

today after a very tedious search for royal purple, i decided to settle for Valvoline Full syntenic, what the other posts say about the grades its best to use thinner oil if u you engine is fairly new. Best to use thicker grade oil's for older cars wit 1xx xxx mileage. I would also recommend a popular oil like Valvoline as 99% of the mechanics have the oil readily available so it saves time and if your stuck in the woop woop you know u can get your hands on some. Btw not good to mix oils, pick one and stick to it till you sell the car.


Also best to look up the owners manual whats the recommended grade and buy either that or better. (every mechanic should have this book)

[Phased]

today after a very tedious search for royal purple, i decided to settle for Valvoline Full syntenic, what the other posts say about the grades its best to use thinner oil if u you engine is fairly new. Best to use thicker grade oil's for older cars wit 1xx xxx mileage. I would also recommend a popular oil like Valvoline as 99% of the mechanics have the oil readily available so it saves time and if your stuck in the woop woop you know u can get your hands on some. Btw not good to mix oils, pick one and stick to it till you sell the car.


Also best to look up the owners manual whats the recommended grade and buy either that or better. (every mechanic should have this book)

A car with 1xx,xxxkms that isn't showing any abnormal wear or isn't under heavy and consistant loads... such as towing, track work etc... should ALWAYS STICK TO OEM VISCOSITIES!!! Unless you are burning a considerable amount of oil (Random Rule of Thumb: more than 300-500ml every 5000kms) use the MANUFACTURERS RECOMMENDED OIL VISCOSITY.

Don't ever think that "thicker is better" manufacturers recommend a specific Viscosity for a reason.

No i will not say its better, i'm just saying nulon is fine.
Anyways, Mobil 1 is the best fully synthetic oil because it is the only true Group IV oil thats readily available on Australian shelves. The next true fully synthetic oil is Amsoil which is harder to get here.

Nulon, castrol, shell, etc... claim to be fully synthetic but they are actually highly refined Group III oils. Castrol won the fight to call there oil fully synthetic through some loop hole.

So yea, alil lecture, but Mobil 1 top shelf stuff... comes with the price tag too.

More misinformation. When Castrol won in courts about Classing a Hydro processed mineral as synthetic... shortly after... Mobil 1 followed suit to save money. Mobil 1 products (again excluding 0 weights; due to physical boundaries of mineral oils at these viscosities) consist mainly of GROUP III (Hydro processed) base stock and some Group IV and the remaining is an Additive Package.

Mobil 1 (Although it may have a slightly better Anti-Wear package than the Group III Castrol Edge) is essentially VERY overpriced mineral oil.

Source: Mark G. from Mobil Engineering.

yeah nah, i pass on the mobil 1. Seems to burn in my car.

Motul, Reline & Royal purple are proper group iv synthetics.

From my understanding Mobil 1 is not even a true group 4. Not the AU ones anyway.
In the states it is group 4, but we get the crap stuff.

Redline, Royal Purple and Motul are all Ester/Di-Ester Synthetics which are classed as Group V... great for the High Revving Nature and consistent pressure put on an engine for track use and have natural acids/cleaning properties to cleanse engine internals. However as showed in several oil tests; compared to a FULLY SYNTHETIC Group IV (PAO) they degrade quicker and don't have AS good cold start and flow properties.

REMEMBER:
NULON is not a "TRUE FULLY SYNTHETIC" Excluding their Zero Weights (0W) they are Group III (Severe Hydroprocessed) oils. I would be choosing Castrol Edge GROUP III over Nulon without second thoughts. There are rumours that Nulon have a good anti-wear additive package... but until i see more Nulon tests come up in Oil Analysis stick with the brands.

check out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=49kETjPZP9Y

V & E Rigoli tests different oils back to back on a mate's evo6

Several Issues with this test. Considering that it's Australian and was Supported by Nulon.
The figures don't show much when the oil is brand new and hasn't suffered from even Mild Degradation.
There are no comparison of Sensor Readings/Air Temp/Humidity and other variabilities
Power is not the only way (one of the few I would recommend) to test actual Oil quality, Viscosity Degredation and Contamination. An oil analysis will always tell you that straight out. It's also a smart way to get an actual drain interval specific to your car and oil/filter combination.

Although there is an argument that it is not available off the shelf in Australia... but it's funny how they don't compare AMSOIL...

[keeff]

I read about a lot of different oils to go in my s2k and i used nulon 5w30 but found it used a little oil so changed to 10w40 synthetice and so far so good previously only used honda oil 10w30 which is made by mobil .5w30 or 5w40 dosnt suit the s2k its to thin 10w30 is recomended nulon make a 10w40 synthetice which is made in oz as good as eny yank oil the only diff between the 30 and 40 is the temp range the oil will peforme at the 10 being the vicosity or thicknes you can go crazy sorting out the diff i also use a ryco oil filter