whats better? Nulon 5w/40? nulon 5w/30? or castrol edge 5w/30

[jim57a]

check out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=49kETjPZP9Y

V & E Rigoli tests different oils back to back on a mate's evo6

[androo]

That's a pretty cool video! Except (like some of the comments on the video) they moved the fan further back for some oils and put it closer for others. If they didn't do that it would have been an awesome test! I wish I had the money to do that test for my teg just for the fun of it haha

Stuff what some of the comments said about travelling a certain distance before doing the testing, etc. etc. Yes that would end with a more interesting result but with all testing, there are limits. People expect way too much!

[Mr.PT]

i guess nulon for its price. lucky i chose nulon oil over the catrol LOL

[CB7_OWNER]

was looking a youtube video the other day of the vtec club on best motoring international with DK Keiichii, and Spoon director ichisama .. he reackons engine oil is not that important, and the "jap spec" FEO oil is more than good enough for cars that see the track 2-3 times a year... On a more important note is the tranny oil.. He was saying how engine oil is passed through a filter, and is cleaned etc.. its treated.. Whereas tranny oil, just sit in the box.. and does just that...

He recommends changing the tranny oil every change of the engine oil.

Link is here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ATk8...eature=related

[gambate]

afaik gearbox oil doesnt get contaminated by fuel and heat, all they get is metal debris, but that is taken care of with a magnet inside.

[Phased]

today after a very tedious search for royal purple, i decided to settle for Valvoline Full syntenic, what the other posts say about the grades its best to use thinner oil if u you engine is fairly new. Best to use thicker grade oil's for older cars wit 1xx xxx mileage. I would also recommend a popular oil like Valvoline as 99% of the mechanics have the oil readily available so it saves time and if your stuck in the woop woop you know u can get your hands on some. Btw not good to mix oils, pick one and stick to it till you sell the car.


Also best to look up the owners manual whats the recommended grade and buy either that or better. (every mechanic should have this book)

A car with 1xx,xxxkms that isn't showing any abnormal wear or isn't under heavy and consistant loads... such as towing, track work etc... should ALWAYS STICK TO OEM VISCOSITIES!!! Unless you are burning a considerable amount of oil (Random Rule of Thumb: more than 300-500ml every 5000kms) use the MANUFACTURERS RECOMMENDED OIL VISCOSITY.

Don't ever think that "thicker is better" manufacturers recommend a specific Viscosity for a reason.

No i will not say its better, i'm just saying nulon is fine.
Anyways, Mobil 1 is the best fully synthetic oil because it is the only true Group IV oil thats readily available on Australian shelves. The next true fully synthetic oil is Amsoil which is harder to get here.

Nulon, castrol, shell, etc... claim to be fully synthetic but they are actually highly refined Group III oils. Castrol won the fight to call there oil fully synthetic through some loop hole.

So yea, alil lecture, but Mobil 1 top shelf stuff... comes with the price tag too.

More misinformation. When Castrol won in courts about Classing a Hydro processed mineral as synthetic... shortly after... Mobil 1 followed suit to save money. Mobil 1 products (again excluding 0 weights; due to physical boundaries of mineral oils at these viscosities) consist mainly of GROUP III (Hydro processed) base stock and some Group IV and the remaining is an Additive Package.

Mobil 1 (Although it may have a slightly better Anti-Wear package than the Group III Castrol Edge) is essentially VERY overpriced mineral oil.

Source: Mark G. from Mobil Engineering.

yeah nah, i pass on the mobil 1. Seems to burn in my car.

Motul, Reline & Royal purple are proper group iv synthetics.

From my understanding Mobil 1 is not even a true group 4. Not the AU ones anyway.
In the states it is group 4, but we get the crap stuff.

Redline, Royal Purple and Motul are all Ester/Di-Ester Synthetics which are classed as Group V... great for the High Revving Nature and consistent pressure put on an engine for track use and have natural acids/cleaning properties to cleanse engine internals. However as showed in several oil tests; compared to a FULLY SYNTHETIC Group IV (PAO) they degrade quicker and don't have AS good cold start and flow properties.

REMEMBER:
NULON is not a "TRUE FULLY SYNTHETIC" Excluding their Zero Weights (0W) they are Group III (Severe Hydroprocessed) oils. I would be choosing Castrol Edge GROUP III over Nulon without second thoughts. There are rumours that Nulon have a good anti-wear additive package... but until i see more Nulon tests come up in Oil Analysis stick with the brands.

check out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=49kETjPZP9Y

V & E Rigoli tests different oils back to back on a mate's evo6

Several Issues with this test. Considering that it's Australian and was Supported by Nulon.
The figures don't show much when the oil is brand new and hasn't suffered from even Mild Degradation.
There are no comparison of Sensor Readings/Air Temp/Humidity and other variabilities
Power is not the only way (one of the few I would recommend) to test actual Oil quality, Viscosity Degredation and Contamination. An oil analysis will always tell you that straight out. It's also a smart way to get an actual drain interval specific to your car and oil/filter combination.

Although there is an argument that it is not available off the shelf in Australia... but it's funny how they don't compare AMSOIL...

[lookingforboost]

I have used and tryed the castrol edge's i dont like them and i know the Nulon is a better oil and i know for a fact that even though they cannont mention the names off the other oils they tested it agianst in the friction test one of them was Castrol Edge 5-30 i use it in all my familys cars, its a local product the money stays here and really performs if your so worried about your motor then why the hell are you putting Edge in the first place, with a car that has 100,000kms plus putting the most expensive oil in really isnt going to do much if for the first 100,000 somone flogged the car and hardly serviced it!

In saying that my mate has a 315KW ATW's GSR running 25psi on stock internals and has done for nearly 5 years now and only services it every now and agian last service was 2 years ago about 7000kms with castrol magnatec :P

Nulon 5W-40 FTW

[aaronng]

was looking a youtube video the other day of the vtec club on best motoring international with DK Keiichii, and Spoon director ichisama .. he reackons engine oil is not that important, and the "jap spec" FEO oil is more than good enough for cars that see the track 2-3 times a year... On a more important note is the tranny oil.. He was saying how engine oil is passed through a filter, and is cleaned etc.. its treated.. Whereas tranny oil, just sit in the box.. and does just that...

Jap spec FEO oil is a Group IV full synthetic. Aus spec FEO oil is a cheap mineral oil. So what he says is valid for Japan but not here in Australia, unless you are buying jap spec synthetic FEO.

[aaronng]

I have used and tryed the castrol edge's i dont like them and i know the Nulon is a better oil and i know for a fact that even though they cannont mention the names off the other oils they tested it agianst in the friction test one of them was Castrol Edge 5-30 i use it in all my familys cars, its a local product the money stays here and really performs if your so worried about your motor then why the hell are you putting Edge in the first place, with a car that has 100,000kms plus putting the most expensive oil in really isnt going to do much if for the first 100,000 somone flogged the car and hardly serviced it!

In saying that my mate has a 315KW ATW's GSR running 25psi on stock internals and has done for nearly 5 years now and only services it every now and agian last service was 2 years ago about 7000kms with castrol magnatec :P

Nulon 5W-40 FTW

How much is Nulon 5w-40? Castrol Edge 5w-30 is only $35 on super sale and $40 on 20% sale. I've been to the site where they make Nulon oil, and I'd prefer to use Castrol.

[Limbo]

i brought some of the gold packaging nulon 10w40 in a 6ltr pack for $50

[lookingforboost]

How much is Nulon 5w-40? Castrol Edge 5w-30 is only $35 on super sale and $40 on 20% sale. I've been to the site where they make Nulon oil, and I'd prefer to use Castrol.

i pay $50 to 55 for the 5W-40 nulon as limbo said its cheaper for the 10w-40, aus owned run and made money stays here so i would rather pay a bit more for it because i know its make a difference to how mnay kms i get to a tank!!!!

[Phased]

I have used and tryed the castrol edge's i dont like them and i know the Nulon is a better oil and i know for a fact that even though they cannont mention the names off the other oils they tested it agianst in the friction test one of them was Castrol Edge 5-30 i use it in all my familys cars, its a local product the money stays here and really performs if your so worried about your motor then why the hell are you putting Edge in the first place, with a car that has 100,000kms plus putting the most expensive oil in really isnt going to do much if for the first 100,000 somone flogged the car and hardly serviced it!

In saying that my mate has a 315KW ATW's GSR running 25psi on stock internals and has done for nearly 5 years now and only services it every now and agian last service was 2 years ago about 7000kms with castrol magnatec :P

Nulon 5W-40 FTW

In order for me to take your comment even remotely seriously, you have to have some foundation...

- How do you "know" Nulon is better than Castrol Edge for a fact? Because of a bias oil test done by somebody in Australia sponsored by Nulon?!?!?! Show me Independent Oil Analysis'!!! The only two oil analysis' of Nulon I have seen, showed that they have high levels (close to legal limit) of Phosphorus slightly lowering cylinder head wear in certain engines. This however will contribute to higher emissions and lower catalytic converter life. Other than that in a Four Ball Wear test the Nulon was far behind even the Group III PENNZOIL PLATINUM.

- You shouldn't be comparing different viscosity oils... (Castrol Edge 5w30, Nulon 5w40)

- By definition regardless of wear or friction additives a 40 weight oil will give higher fuel consumption at operating temperature.

- The further apart the viscosity index (5w40 vs. 5w30) in a Group III (Mineral) oil the greater amount of viscosity modifiers are required which will have adverse effect on friction and wear. This isn't held true in oils like AMSOIL, Royal Purple, Motul as a fully synthetic oil (PAO/ESTER) are 'naturally' multi-viscosity oils.

- Nulon has a higher pour point which indicates poorer cold start and flow characteristics... Which is when the most engine wear is caused.

- Nulon only contains a minimum of 60% Group III "Synthetic Oil" the rest is mineral oil and additives. Castrol Edge contains a minimum of 70% Group III Base Stock.

You seem to be very stuck to the point it's Australian, I can 100% understand what your saying about supporting Australia. However, until we create something that is actually the same or better than competitors products (even if its slightly more expensive) I will stick to better products.

If I had a "sportier" car and drove hard I would be using AMSOIL no questions. However, Changing at 5000kms becomes expensive. I just changed out my first lot of Castrol Edge and am sending some FEO, Castrol Edge 5w30 and AMSOIL 5w30 away for Oil Analysis.

I would try Nulon, however I've seen Oil Analysis out of a K20A and it wasn't fantastic. It was compared to Mobil 1, Castrol Edge and Elf 5w30's. Nulon is just another Group III.