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  1. #1
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    Replacing CL9 Accord Euro Parkers

    DIY: Replacing CL9 Euro Parkers

    Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!

    I've seen a few threads in the Accord Euro section with people asking how to replace the parkers, thought I'd contribute my own DIY to the OzHonda community after using several of these DIYs myself! Please leave comments/suggestions, I couldn't find a DIY for this in the forum, I apologise if someone else has covered it already!

    Aim:
    The parker lights may need to be changed for several reasons, in my case I just wanted to get rid of the yellow and replace it with white!

    Required:
    1. T10 socket bulbs (I used white LED lights which I got from a trader here)
    2. Phillips head screwdriver
    3. Flathead screwdriver
    4. Hands (very important)


    FRONT PARKERS
    Steps: As far as I know there are three ways to do this:

    1. Try to reach the parkers from the engine bay
    Not recommended unless you're a ninja with tiny hands, it may make what is a simple task into a job that takes hours

    2. Remove Part of the front bumper
    I haven't used this method myself, but I thought I'd cover it anyway

    1. Grab your phillips head screwdriver and look for the screw under the splash guard (1)


    2. Undo the screw and pry the bumper out (there are clips holding the bumper in place, just needs a bit of force)


    3. Continue on from Step 3 in method three

    3. Undo the spash guard
    This is the method that I prefer

    1. Remove the clips which are holding the splashguard up by using the flathead screwdriver to pry the middle part of the clip out from both sides, then simply pull the clip out (2 and 3).

    There is a screw which you can remove with a phillips head (1) which I have always undone while doing this, but I think you may be able to leave it in because it is just holding the front bumper up and doesnt affect the guard (from memory).



    These clips are easy to break (as you can see from the condition of mine), so be careful if you can

    2. Now you shold be able to pull the splash guard back so you have easier access to the engine bay. Pull it back so you can stick your head in and take a good look around



    3. Look around for the parker light, stick your hand in and twist (usually to the left) until the light holder comes out. Be prepared to scratch the F@#% out of your hand (you can use gloves if you want, real men just tank it )



    4. Pull the light holder out, the bulb simply slots right in, so to replace it just pull the bulb out.





    5. Put your new bulb in, and test it before putting it back in the headlight

    (sexy isnt it )

    6. Put the parker back in the headlight and backtrack to put everything back together, now sit back and admire your new parkers!


    (Yes, I'm loving that massive bird shit I have near my headlight washer too )

    REAR PARKERS
    1. Lift up your boot and simply slide the parker covers to the right to unclip them, replace lights as necessary.



    Other comments
    Will do a DIY of the alternative method of removing the rear parkers (through the boot lining) if requested, as I had to do it because my rear parker covers wouldnt come off for some reason. The pics arent of greatest quality because I used my phone camera!

    Hope this guide helps the other Euro drivers out there!
    Last edited by Simonnn; 11-04-2010 at 11:36 AM.

  2. #2
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    LOL simon, i remember you calling me about how to do it. If your ninja enough you can fit your hand through the engine bay and do it =] takes around 15-20 minutes depending how much zen you have.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by iLlusion10 View Post
    LOL simon, i remember you calling me about how to do it. If your ninja enough you can fit your hand through the engine bay and do it =] takes around 15-20 minutes depending how much zen you have.
    Problem is, it is too slow to be ninja. With the fender method, I can just remove 2 clips (I don't remove the screw nor touch the bumper), I can swap the parkers in under 3 minutes for each side.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  4. #4
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    I tried getting to the parker through the engine bay, spent like 5 minutes on it lost like 3 fingers I gave up and decided fender was the way to go you really can do it in a few minutes once you know what to do

  5. #5
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    hrmm i'll wait to my led parkers die then i'll try it again.

  6. #6
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    great write up dude

    i managed to change my parkers through the engine bay and my hands are chode.

    might be a noob question but don't you need a transformer/lower voltage to run LED's? or are they simply plug and play?

    wouldn't wanna be changing LED's every couple of months
    I dream of a better tomorrow, where chickens can cross the road and not be questioned about their motives.

  7. #7
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    Yeah.. I've heard about the voltage fluctuation blowing these LEDs really quickly, but the seller i bought them off assured me that they are of high quality so I went ahead with it. So far so good, and they were plug and play

  8. #8
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    may I ask which trader you purchased the LEDs from?

    think I'm gonna go amber LED's instead
    I dream of a better tomorrow, where chickens can cross the road and not be questioned about their motives.

  9. #9
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    I purchased them from the trader 'liquidsound', very helpful guy, not sure if he has amber LEDs though!

  10. #10
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    for the rear parkers, i couldnt open it by sliding the cover and unclip it, maybe the space is too narrow?
    can u show me another way?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by guti14 View Post
    for the rear parkers, i couldnt open it by sliding the cover and unclip it, maybe the space is too narrow?
    can u show me another way?
    Will do as soon as I get some free time

  12. #12
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    awesome write up bro.. changed my parkers to white the splashguard undo method... quick and easy..! had to jack my car up though as its been lowered...

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