Broken engine mounts

[stylzjhn]

$162.50 for the part

[Type-R]

$162.50 for the part

Try Southside Honda, i think u may get it cheaper than that from them

[stylzjhn]

That was from southside. I got quoted 182 from the one other places. And the only place that had the part in stock was southside.
Well my car is fixed now. cost me $90 for labor. Hope the part doesnt break on me again.

[felixbrisbane]

Hi Jazz lovers. I came looking for anyone's experience changing the (driver's side) engine mount but only found this thread discussing price. FWIW my 2007/8 Jazz at 100,000 km service was diagnosed as needing this replaced. It's not actually "broken" in the way I've seen engine mounts let go on a Chevy for instance. But because it's silicone-filled it seems to have deteriorated. They wanted $340 extra to do this and the car's quite driveable the way it is so I said "no thanks". When I went to my favourite after-market place Brakes Plus they offered to do it for $310 (and in fact they've already done exactly this on my son's 2004 Jazz). Both quotes include the genuine Honda part obviously. So I had a look on EBay and bought one for $43. The high-res' picture allows me to compare it very carefully with the one off my son's Jazz and it looks perfectly fine. Will try installing it myself, can't be THAT hard and I have air tools although it's the tightest engine compartment I've ever come across. In the meantime if anyone HAS DONE this and has any pointers I'd love to hear from you, before I lose a lot of skin doing the hard way.

[yb07ha]

Shouldnt be to hard. If you do come across a thread on how to do it please post the link here. Good luck!

[bennjamin]

jack up the engine a touch - back off the main bolt , clear out the pipes in the way - get the upper nut off and the chassis mounted bolts off. With the motor jacked up a touch shift the engine alittle back and forth and you should be able to wiggle the now dead mount out. Reverse for the install

[felixbrisbane]

Many thanks. Will give it a try but the cramped engine bay is daunting. Must hire midgets to put it together I guess.

[felixbrisbane]

Having spent most of today trying unsuccessfully to do this, I'm skeptical that you've actually done this yourself. My first problem was trying to get tools on the four bolt heads and I realised it can only be done by unclipping the main fuse box and tying it up out of the way - no big deal but this is exactly the kind of detail that I'd hoped to find out BEFORE deciding whether to tackle it myself.

Once the four bolts were undone I jacked up the engine just enough to wiggle out the original engine mount. This wasn't easy and if my enormously strong son hadn't come by to help I'd have found it impossible. My joy was short-lived though. As the original mount was dropped out from under the triangular aluminum casting which sits above it the engine popped backwards, probably hinging on a lower mount, so that it was impossible to get the new one in place.

I'm embarrassed to say that after a couple of hours of jacking up and down repeatedly and crow-barring the engine forwards and hitting the mount using a long piece of hardwood to try to get it into position, I ended up removing my brand new engine mount and cutting it shorter with an angle grinder in hopes of being able to get it up through the oval hole in the aforementioned casting.

A couple more hours later, after endless attempts to get enough of a gap to force the new piece into position I had to admit defeat. I jacked the engine down and it's now sitting on the new mount, but with the large stud stuck in FRONT OF that casting and none of the fasteners have been put back on (sigh). Not only have I customised my new engine mount, but the appallingly close brake lines are deformed from my efforts and I'm really worried that raising the engine so high may have put fatal strain on the a/c pipes, cruise control or something else.

I can't explain how let down I am, that after all this effort I'll now be taking it somewhere and paying them to (re)do the job anyway - and they may insist on using ANOTHER new mount. As someone who did work as a (motorcycle) mechanic in my younger days and having all the right gear (except possibly a hoist) I'm really bummed out. It appears the only easy way to do this would be to remove that upper casting, which has one upside down fastener that I couldn't even SEE the head of, never mind get a tool on it. My advice? Just pay the money and get it done for you somewhere while you go for a coffee.

[bennjamin]

yeah - I'm a liar mate. Never done anything. Especially replacing all engine mounts on a jazz.

Just because you can't do it doesn't mean it's impossible. Can I suggest next time looking up DIY's on YouTube or on a jazz forum. Preferably before calling someone a liar since you can't do it yourself.

[felixbrisbane]

Well having slept on it I realised the whole problem was that pushing the engine up from underneath gave no control over the fore and aft movement of the engine. It wants to pivot backwards as it comes up (not an issue if the other mounts are undone perhaps) and the wheel well prevents you from sliding the new mount backwards enough to make the central stud and its hole line up. All the crowbars and struggle and sweat of both of us couldn't position the engine where it needed to be. So for anyone else who finds the "wiggle it" method isn't working for you read on:

Went into Aldi today and picked up a $20 hand winch (come-a-long) attached it to the lintel of my shed and connected the other end to the relevant engine mount casting using a lifting strap (at approx' 45 degrees). One click at a time I easily pulled the engine up AND forwards while I watched exactly how things were moving. Once there was enough clearance on the new engine mount (sitting on the inner wheel well sub-frame) I just tapped it into position under the aluminum casting * then lowered the engine slowly back into place. Just before it landed I did up the two mounting bolts. The rest was straightforward. Hope these details help someone else one day - but the $90 Brakes Plus quoted me to do the job is looking pretty reasonable now.

* spraying WD 40 all over the rubber tongue which slots into a rectangular hole in the casting prevented it from jamming crookedly as it was doing previously

[42883512]

thanks for the post felix.
i got a new jazz and its 240ks and im not sure if the engine mounts are gone.. (might be.. how do i check?).

ill probably take it to the shop though if it does..

[felixbrisbane]

thanks for the post felix... how do i check?).

Well I was told by the Honda dealer at my last service (first service since I bought the car used) that it needed to be replaced. I have to say I was always aware when backing out of the driveway that there was a bit of shudder when going from R to N to D but I just thought it was part of the peculiar charm of the CVT. I have to say that's improved now but not $340's worth. Having spent just $43 (plus the hand winch) I'm happy with the result.

My son's older Jazz has had a much harder life and it was quite apparent that there was some clunking and rattling going on. When this item was replaced at Brakes Plus the improvement was dramatic and immediate so if yours feel and sounds like that get it checked out. My fear was that one bad mount would put excess strain on the other mounts and I'd end up having to replace ALL of them - much more expensive of course.

Incidentally I notice the new 2016 Civic is ONLY AVAILABLE with this Franken-transmission, not sure how brilliant a move that is.